Haavard Guttormsen

Does anyone know the difference between theese? err2708 - up to 99 err7107 - 99-out I have have a 98 pot on the shelf and a 2000 dse which might have problems with the pot.

Hi, I have a 2,5 DSE 2000 with EGR and automatic gearbox her. At first I had this problem: When driving with no engine load at about 1000 rpm or lower the engine would shake once and the acceleraqt hard to go to full stop a second later. The error logged the was: FUEL FLOW VALUE OUT OF RANGE, TOO HIGH, TOO LOW, MAJOR FAULT, FAULT LOGGED, INTERMITTENT After this I changed: ECU, crank sensor,and diesel High pressure pump. The old ECU had a chip in it so I needed an original one to be sure what was going on there. After this I got Air flow sensor intermittent error so I changed this to a good one tested on another car. After this it does not always start at once. It start and stops in a second. No the error has changed a bit. While slow driving still it does a little shake and stops. Not all the time but once in a while after it gets warm. This normally happens when driving in rush traffic or going into a roundabout. But what happens every time is if I rush the engine up over 3000 rpm's and just release the accelerator it will just stop immediately. Could this be I have timed the diesl pump wrong? Blocked EGR valve ? Anything else I have done wrong or simply something different ? The ECU does not log any errors now ! It is driving me nuts :-)

I have some nifty software that removes the inmobiliser from the ecu. If You have access to an eprom programmer that can do 8 pin serial eeprom (and can solder it out and in again as it is a SO-8 package) I can modify the file for You for free. Then the ECU will work fine without communication with anything else. If You are going to use a manual gearbox I advise You too get an ecu from a manual car preferably without EGR system.

I have an extra R380 gearbox from my P38 2,5DSE 98' lynig. I am going to change my Classic with TD5 from auto to manual. Can I change the bellhousing only on the P38 gearbox to use it on the TD5 engine. The TD5 engine came off a D2. I have bought a single piece HD flywheel and clutch kit for defender/disco off ebay. On my gearbox the input shaft is about 24 cm long. Will the bellhousing from a Defender fit? Or will the easy solution be to buy a complete gearbox from a defender? I know the stick on the P38 gearbox is in the wrong position but it can be changed easily. Thank You. Haavard Guttormsen

The 2 boxes extra is an vehicle tracking system. The Mototrola unit contains a cell phone and probably a gps as well. The battery is to keep it powered after the thiefs disconnect the main battery.

I am trying to find the part number for the VIN sticker located under the bonnet at the front of the car. My car has been damaged there and I need a replacement sticker. Best regards, Haavard Guttormsen Norway

I have a P38 which is crashed in the front left corner just where the VIN sticker is. Is it possible to get hold of a new one or do I always have to keep the curled metal part with me in the car at all times?

The Bearmach tool is bad choice. I almopst got me one but found out just before it was tolate that the Hawkeye cannot configure Becm on the P38. I ended up with a Rovacom kit instead. It was not that much more expensive than the Bearmach with EAS cables extra.

You could also just get a Bearmach Hawkeye diagnostic tool. It is about 300£ and will save You alot in servicing in the future. If You are smart You will invest 85£ in the EAS cable fot it as well. With this tool You should be able to do all services at non Land Rover dealers or by Yourself.

Hi, I have done aTD5 conversion on a RRC'76. Pictures can be found here: Haavards TD5 RRC Quick story: I got the RRC with a VW 2,4 litre TDI in it. The car had been on my neigbours yard for several years without even being started. After spending several months welding rust and getting everything ready to drive I took the car up in the mountains. After just 50 km's the engine lost cooling and started smoking black. I managed to drive there and back without the engine breaking down. When I got home I started looking for a better engine for my RRC. I managed to get a complete TD5 engine with auto gearbox with all electrics and driveshafts for a reasonable price here in Norway. I got the engine to my garage and started measuring up everything. After some measuring I found out it should be possible to put it in there without to much cutting. The only cutting in the car was cutting out the old engine mounts and builing new mount for the TD5 engine mounts which are huge compared to the older ones. I had to make 2 tries with the engine in and out before i got the correct height of the engine. Now it sits perfectly startight in the car and the hood will close without problems to. I had to remove the ACE pump from the engine to get enough space on that side. I got a new pulley from ebay and a correct drive belt. I fabricated a new lower crossmember to get clear of the sump from the gearbox and to get my 3 " exhaust. I also made some new radiator mounts to be able to use the Disco TD5 radiator. My intercooler came from some other car which I do not know, possible a ML since I got it from a mercedes garage. It is just a bit bigger then the TD5 one. It will probably be just fine with the D2 one too. The oil cooler for the gearbox is a universal one for US trucks. The electric fan is also just a universal one. The cheapest I could find that would cover the most of the radiator as there wasn't any room for the viscous fan. This was the easy part of the project. After this I started with the engine electrics. I dismantled the electrical system that came with the engine and got the engine and gearbox systems figured out. To be able to even start with this You will need many hours studying the RAVE manual. You MUST have Nanocom box.(thanks to a lot of help from Matti). You would also need an inmolizer disabler from TD5alive to be able to get the engine to work for more than 0,5 seconds at the time. What You need from the original wiring loom: Engine loom with ECU. Wiring loom from gearbox. The eninge ECU... This has brought me a lot of headache as the ECU I got was from a totally different car than the engine was. There are more than one type TD5 engine. Mine was from a 2004 model with only 30K km on it. The ECU i got was from a defender with out auto gearbox of course. I got hands of new ECU from an autobox car and was satisfied with that for amoment. Of course since having an EU3 engine that ECU is really bad for You. It does not have injector codes for the ine green injectors from EU3 engines and that will give You problems, worst case snapping of cam chain so I had to get a new ECU again. I got a new ECU off ebay and installed it. Then I lost all communication with my gearbox. Even after rebuilding my ECU (NNN type) I could not get the CAN bus correct. Then I was trying with my old ECU again. Yes the gearbox would work but it shifts like a maniac since the ratio was very different than on the D2 the transmission controller came from. I have not finished this part yet. I am waiting fro a proggrammable transmission controller atm. If I had knew this when I started I would hav bougt a compushift system before I started with this and reconfigured the engine ECU for manual gearbox at first. The fuel system was also a bit of a challenge. The TD5 requires quite a lot of diesel at correct pressure to be able to run. I used a 2 stage fuel pump system. In the rear I have a high flow fuel pump feeding the filter unit in the front. Before the filter there is a one way valve stopping fuel to go back again and air from getting into the system. After the filter unit I have a high pressure pump normally used when adding more power to US diesels. This could probably be fixed by using a tank from an original based TD5 engined car probably. The TD5 fuel pump is much higher than the the RRC fuel tank is and I did not wanna mess up that under the rear of the car. Even after all the trouble I went through to do this I would still have done it. The engine has really good power and fits nice in the car. The sound from it throught the 3" pipes is sweet, almost to quiet:-) I have worked hard to get all instruments working with this setup. To get the speedo to work I installed a sensor that detects the nuts on the flange out from the transfer case via a Speedohealer v4 box. To get the tacho to work was a bit harder. First I had to get the ECU to detect an instrument connected. When using a LED and resistor as load I finally hade the ECU belive there was a tacho attached. Then I connected yet another Speedohealer with a 500 ohm pullup resitor an the output to get the tacho working. To get the engine temp working I had to install a separate temp sensor on the engine. Just a universal sensor outlet on one of the cooling hoses did the works. If there is anything You wanna ask, just do it ! This is and will be an ongoing project for a while. Haavard Guttormsen Norway

Might just be a turbo hose leakage. Have someone sit inside the car and put it in gear , brake fully and give it some throttle. It should be able to make the turbo get up some pressure then. Then try to find out if there is any leakages on the hoses or the intercooler. If not remove the hoses from turbo and intercooler and inspect them for damages. They might have collapsed on the inside as well and blocks for air.

Is there anyone who knows which temparature the viscous fan is supposed to start working at? I can not find it in the Rave manual.

Tested the AC fan request wire today. As soon as You ground it the fan will start. I think I will just add a thermostat that grounds this wire.

The sensor in my car now does not work. It reads 0 volts on my Nanocom unit. I do know what a Maf sensor is, I'm just not sure all it´s functions in the TD5 diesel engine setup.

It sounds like Your engine inmobilizing system has activated. It probably has lost alarm code and needs to relearn. I had the same problem on my engine. It would start just fine and after a couple of seconds it would just stop. Use a Nanocom or or take it to a garage with some lR diagnostic system and have it reset. Or You can buy an inmobilizer removal kit from Td5alive. It costs 100£ and You will nevere have inmobilizer problems again.