V8Nick

STOP! Before you take it apart. Try this cure for clutch friction plate rusted to the flywheel... - Jack up one rear wheel (chock the others). - First or reverse gear in 2WD - Start the engine - Hold clutch pedal down - Build the revs up a bit - Hit the brakes! Obviously, this isn't the most 'mechanically sympathetic' fix, but it worked for my 109 after 8 years of inactivity. You can also spray wd40 onto the clutch through the access hole in the top of the bellhousing to help release the blighter. Cheers, Nick

Okay, here's a view inside the low-ratio transfer box (as fitted to the 1ton and the 2A and 2B forward control). And now, spot the difference... The standard and 1ton PTO adaptors.

'The Gronk' at Coney Green 'Kenny' still convalescing in the back garden (nearly ready). Cheers, Nick

Is that the same conversion plate as for a Prima? And, that'll be the later Rover 800 V6. The early ones had Honda V6 engines IIRC.

That's a One Ton allright, but those are the rarer 'extra offset' rims. There are at least two types of 6½" rim which were standard or optional on the One Tons and Forward Controls... I've got a photo somewhere... Ah, here they are... Note that the position of the hub, and therefore it's fixing rivets is the only difference between the FC rim (grey) and the Extra Offset rim (silver). Cheers, Nick

Thanks! Drop Arm cut-out I don't remember taking accurate dimemtions for this, but if you measure the vertical face height of the defender footwell and subtract that of the series footwell, that will give you the required dimention from the lower right corner of the vertical face (looking from the in front of the bulkhead) up AND down. These two cuts must be an equal distance from the corner if you want to reuse the removed section to fill the hole! The other dimention is worked out as flush with the bracket to which the steering box is bolted. This is actually a bit further than needed, and may reduce clutch pedal travel. Pedal Boxes The clutch pedal box remains in the same place, so it is possible to use this as a datum point, and take measurements from a series footwell. IIRC the brake pedal box is approx 1" further from the clutch pedal box. I had to get a steel plate of about 2mm thick and mounted both pedal boxes on that. Cheers, Nick

I have a Defender bulkhead on my 1970 88". I could go into detail here, but it's much easier to point you at the relevent page of MY WEBSITE. There IS an issue with clearance on the drop arm, and with the positioning of the pedal boxes. Series pedal boxes will bolt straight on, so I can't see that using defender pedal boxes will help in any way. You could fit a defender steering column, but that will give you a raft of new problems trying to fit the defender steering box to the front crossmember. Far easier to weld a fresh plate over the pedal box holes and re cut them in the correct position for a series. Cheers, Nick

YOU NEED A "BOLLY" "Bolly" the FT6 from Bollington, Cheshire. Currently owned by Paul Stevens, Series 2 Club Area Rep for West Midlands. You can't beat a bit a Bolly!

Right then! I've been taking a few photos. What's the use of having One Ton wheels cluttering up your hallway, if I can't provide an example! Note that the position of the hub, and therefore it's fixing rivets is the only difference between the FC rim (grey) and the Extra Offset rim (silver). Cheers, Nick P.S. Kenny is a One Ton BTW.

There are 2 different types. The standard ones and the extra offset ones.

Take the mick all you want, but Spud does bring up a valid point. If you weld coil mounts to the chassis (or buy a new 'series' coil sprung chassis) you will loose the identity points for the chassis, and therefore the identity of the vehicle. The vehicle would then have to have a Q plate and would loose it's historic status (which means that you have to pay road tax). If you fail to declare the modifications and get caught (which seems unlikeley at the moment), you will loose the vihicle and be facing fraud charges fot the road tax you have been dodging. At the moment the DVLA (or is it C&E?) seem to only be interested in the occasional Defender running on Series 2 plates and similar easy results, but that could change in the future. I don't support this law, I'd rather we were allowed to be able to fiddle with our vehicles to our hearts content, but I'd hate to see another series go to the crusher, esspecially when so much work has been put into it. Cheers, Nick

Hi, I'm a bit behind jericho with my project. I have my 1970 S2A 88" 2¼ petrol on the road at the moment with an Ashcroft Hi-ratio transfer box, but I also have a 3.9 V8 and a conversion kit to suit the series gearbox waiting to go in (got no flywheel though). I also have an SD1 bellhousing at the back of the shed somewhere. However, I'm interested in finding out if I could go to an R380 with the series t/box. Oh and MECCANO, what 3D package are those models from? It looks like 'Inventor'. You wouldn't concider letting me have a copy of that model would you? Please? Cheers, Nick

Any photos? A mate of mine was there yesterday, in a Korean 4x4 of all things! I'd like to know how much plastic fell off it! Coincidently, I was driving Hollinsclough at the time... Cheers, V8Nick