V8 Freak
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Posts posted by V8 Freak
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I done a little more looking around, a silly conversation with Nige (Hybrid from Hell) who easily demonstrated his knowledge of Land Rovers was better than I could ever dream of... (I recon he's got a blueprint memorised...)
I think I'll try the side vent route he did for my first attempt at move hot air out of the bonnet area and then, if required, upgrade the no-name fans to some with muscle and pedigree... (If they exist ! LOL)
I see the part numbers Nige.. Any clip numbers ?
Neil
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I have twin fans already installed but I fear a lot of heat remains trapped in the enging bay. I could upgrade the fans easily enough but it seems it could be easier to let the heat out...
I look forward to seeing what you have....
And yay..... I found where I was before....
Any views on this ?
http://www.pacet.co.uk/BONNET.HTM
Neil
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I saw a picture of a slimline fan in a bonnet somewhere recently but I cannot for the life of me find it now I may need it !
Anyone seen the same pic ? (Bonnet either blue or grey !)
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I've slightly edited my post to be more helpful !!
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Had some in the 110 but took them out as they were surplus to my requirements and someone else wanted to play with them.
The lower mounts were bolted through the rear floor with spreader plates.... They must have passed the previous years MOT.... Seems simple enough. Unfortunately I did not remove them...
See old piccie....
Looks like a tank out jobbie though !!
Neil
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The following thread should help with the dash modification...
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6782
Power cables all there and should be all you need. I have a rubber aerial mounted at the rear of my 110 with cable threaded from rear...
Have fun...
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I recommend giving the engine to me, stripped of all the electrickery of course....
You install my vasty underpowered V8 3.5 (Boasting a fabulous 115 BHP...) and see if the misfire goes away!
I install yours and see if it runs on my old dizzy and carb !!!
Is it a deal ??
Could be an end to your problems !!
Neil
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I've been toying with upgrading my fans.... (Currently unknown brand pulling from inside engine bay...)
With bonnet closed on tickover today they took nearly 5 mins to drag the temp down to the point where they cut off again....
With the bonnet open, it was under 2 mins !
So, how can I sensibly move more heat from the engine bay ?
Fan through the top of the bonnet?
Some vents in the bonnet?
Suggestions please....
I look forward to your views...
Neil
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I thought it was compulsory that you had to have leaks !!!
(Wasn't it in the design specs ?)
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Saturday is haircut for me and Son....
[Edit starts here.. Changed to "Want to do " and "Actually got done..."]
Want to...
Sort out rear doors.. One locks while travelling along and the other won't unlock without a fight !
New Speedo cable to go in, New breather tubes for gearbox and transfer box, bolt secure box to floor in rear of 110, bolt down mount for hi-lift jack, forward and rear recovery points to be bolted on, new stereo to be installed and cooling fans over-ride switch to be wired in.
Got done...
Stereo installed.. (Frozen and got a headache....Took tabs, got warm and went back....)
New Side lights and Indicator units fitted at front
All doors adjusted
Rear doors mechanisms both sorted out
Sunday
Want to....
Run mum to airport in morning, pull apart sunroof (weather permitting) clean and see if we can get it sealed for the winter.... Move door locking points in a touch to get better seal... (New door rubbers fitted a few months back, finally started to give a little....)
Print some dance show pictures for the local dance school and update their website.....
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Darn it.. Chose the wrong end !
Good news is it went to a good home.. Mine not broken yet !!
(Famous last words..... What's likely to break this weekend now......)
Neil
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Left dash support facia where heater fan controls attach ?
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Mine is happy to do the longer journeys at 55, or 65 and will happily sit at 75-80 if I'm prepared to keep stopping for fuel !
I have to say, with the roof rack removed it is a LOT quieter.... And probably getting another +1 MPG there somewhere !
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So Nige.....
Still working ok ?? Two days has to be a record and a sign it could have been that loom after all !
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Sheer madness....
You know it's kids who've never driven or they'd realise just how dangerous their little "prank" really is.... Need to put them in a car that then hits the tyres and crashes pretty severely.
Might change their minds...
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Nige...
You do know that having 8 plugs and leads in will help !!! 7 is not a good compromise !
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I had a crack at installing the Scorpion Racing version today.....
I started with this..
It was time to remove and have a good clean out...
(Make a note of where all the wires go if you are using the same switches, guages etc.)
It was time to get the junior hacksaw out and start cutting (after measuring everything up of course...)
I was able to use a Stanley knife to remove the plastic/rubber facia around where the clock etc came out to reveal the metal of the dash. Tin snips and junior hacksaw were all that was required to cut away the unwanted metal. I filed the sharp edges and hammered the excess metal on the bottom lip flat..
I had to cut away some of the top rail on the dash and then offer up the new backing plate.
I was hoping to get away with not cutting the grey of the back dash area but the unit is designed to fit and fasten with the grey vent removed.
So top dash screws loosened, a few grey poppers removed (and usually destroyed) and the grey dash backing was out. A bit of measuring and a quick pass with a general purpose wood saw and the two end pieces were re-inserted and dash re-secured.
Once removed the back plate fits very snugly.
It was a case of drilling and screwing where the instructions indicated to secure the back plate. Plenty of screws provided.
It was then a case of drilling, plenty of use of a circular file and fitting the ciggy socket and rear wash wipe switch.
(Western advised how to remove the knob off the wash/wipe.... Insert small screwdriver or similar into the innocent looking hole in the knob. A secret button depresses and the knob cover can be pulled off)
Clocks fitted perfectly first time and the wires sorted, prepared and connected.
Time was passing away and darkness falling so I placed the radio into the hole for effect and fitted the blank plates in the switch holes.
The facia then presented to the back plate, four screws inserted and the dash looks pretty different !
I have to say, it was an easy job to do, the product is very well engineered and fitted very well.
I'll be doing the wiring and radio replacement another day but I'm sure you can see what is involved if you are thinking of trying a dash replacement for yourself.
If you have any questions please drop a response in here or send me a PM.
Neil
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I've been through this today and taken a few pics to build on the thread for anyone else who may need to do this.
Sloppy wipers positioning, clicking and irregular swing a problem for you...
Remove Wiper blades and arms. Note the current position of the splines...
You are going to need to remove the Land Rover badge and remove the screw, and any other screw you find in the general area !!!
(Under LR badge, two on top of lower dash and door hinge cover and two below dash)
When you have removed all the coverd area you should see something like this..
Remove the connecting wires, slide the black rubber cover up to reveal a locking nut and unscrew the two larger screws that secure the motor to the bulkhead...
When free, loosen the large nut at the top of the motor and the motor should separate from the drive cable tub
Lay motor and cable on a flat surface.
Go to the splines and rotate them through 180 degrees. (Half way round)
You can just re-inster the cable and re-fit at this point if you like...
Or, open up the motor unit, ease off the circular clip and remove the drive shaft and cable from the motor..
(I was a bit naughty and used the bonnet.. Not nearly clean enough but nearby !)
Motor with cable removed..
I turned the cable over on the drive shaft and re-inserted the cable and shaft into the motor housing..
It was then a case of sliding the cable back into the tube, affix the motor by tightening the nut again and checking that the splines were in a different place to when I started !! (Luckily enough they were...)
At this point I believe the manuals say "Re-fitting is the reverse of removal"
(Don't forget to re-connect the earth on one of the motor/bulkhead screws)
I'd advise a quick test of the mechanism before you secure the dash in place again.
If you have any questions, please feel free to respond here or send me a PM..
Neil
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Sad to see it Steve....
I was out on some lanes in Herts on Sunday..
Some just finished with hedges where the lane used to be and one had been ploughed up by the farmer and the red arrow discs had been chisled off the post ! (Needless to say, after driving round looking for an alternative we were forced to cross the edge of the field for 50 metres or re-trace our steps - The GPS track is a bit of a laugh.. Looks like we were lost !)
So if they aren't closed officially, they are closing by stealth or through a lack of use !
(One even had a chained gate at one end !)
If you get some stone and want a hand to make repairs, drop me a message.... Would be glad to assist. Doesn't look like we are a million miles apart !
Neil.
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I bet those tracks would be a nightmare on the M4...
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Just their own unique way of starting a hybrid project !
Neil
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Whilst playing on some local Green Lanes last weekend I noticed the 110 temp needle moved just off centre indicating a touch warmer than I would have expected while trickling along at low speeds.... (V8 3.5 ltr - Standard fixtures and fittings...)
I don't do any serious off road work like the winch challenges or submerge the 110 beyond axle depth...
I've got two un-named brand electric fans pulling air through but I want to make sure that whatever is there is providing efficient and adequate cooling without forward momentum assisitng with the flow of air.....
I've seen in the forums a lot of people talking about Mondeo V6 fans etc. but can't find anything similar in the local breakers around here.
Therefore I'm considering upgrading these fans for something hopefully much better for the job.....
I've read about Pacet and Kenlowe fans.. Much of a muchness on paper...
I like the idea of being able to set the temp at which each fan cuts in but it's not essential as I can always rig up a switch to override and bring the fans in at lower temps if needed.
I'm aiming to ensure longevity of the engine and don't want something that can be prevented to spoil years of potential motoring...
Can you offer some recommendations please.
(Please include ease of fitting if you have personal experience.)
Thanks in advance
Neil
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Yes, Tech archive please...
Something I have to do real soon to get rid of my severe clicking noise and different swing lengths....
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Nice to hear it worked in the end..
I was following your other thread on this and was getting snowed with the tech speak people were offering you....
You got any shots of wiring to rear after it was sorted ?
Neil
110 V8 3.5 Cooling....
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I won't be needing the bling !
But thanks for thinking of my image...
So.. It now begs the question.... Are you and eccentric millionaire who just surfs the net 24/7 looking for solutions for people on LR4X4 or do you have a sympathetic boss ??