V8 Freak
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Posts posted by V8 Freak
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On 26/03/2018 at 1:38 PM, Retroanaconda said:
On all the ones I’ve had experience of the key stays in the cap until it’s locked again, making it impossible to forget it as you can’t drive off without the keys.
The tether is a good idea
Unfortunately, the ones on the TD5 the key can be removed when unlocked.... Hence they get lost !
(Same for the tethered one)
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John.... If that source is good, I'll have one too @ £1500 !!!
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Modelled by a grey Td5....
As an elderly uncle type person I lost the original filler cap by leaving it on the wheel carrier after getting fuel in an attended station in Italy...
The normal process was broken and as I'd paid I assume the one of us had re-fitted the filler cap.... Oops...
Does the job nicely...
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Scrape on O/S bumper.. Needs re-wrapping... Gonna cost.. LOL
Errr.... Buy it !! Go on.....
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I put a thin bead on the rubber gasket because it’s easier to control as it’s not reaching over the back of the engine and clearly visible.
It doesn’t need much and if applied sparingly it won’t spread and block the drain hole.
But that is the area I was referring to in my original post.
Neil
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I tend to put the bolts and top hats in after...
Dave makes a valid point above.. These are buggers to find if dropped in the engine bay as they end up in all manner of impossible places... (Including on top of the front Diff... Ask me how I know..)
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It's a fairly simple operation....
Remove the acoustic cover (3 X 13 mm bolts), un-clip the breather pipe from the top and undo the 13 x 8 mm bolts....
Lift off and clean the cover and head where the seal lands really well.
There us a "U" shaped section at the rear of the head... This is generally where these gaskets leak.
I always add a small amount of sealant over this section to help seal here.
Take care to land the whole seal in place and refit the X13 bolts etc., not excessively tight as they are quire small... Torque setting for these is very low but cannot remember it off the top of my head.
Good luck.
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@Smego Post up some pictures..... Wheels, relationship with the outer arches (As per mine above) and show us a picture where they touch on full lock....
Mine are 255/85 BFG like Ralph's on Boost Alloys and when I added the 30mm spacers to get some turning circle back, they fouled the arches under articulation.
With no spacers, they cleared the arches, but I needed to adjust the stops out to stop them rubbing the radius arms etc.
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I had pants steering lock before the spacers Pete with 33 inch tyres. The arches needed to be trimmed after the spacers were fitted as they were 30 mm further out and in line with the arches.
It served to get lock back and trimming seemed a natural choice to keep it simple.. Looked ok afterwards... In fact, not sure people notice until it's pointed out.
So if @Smego needs more lock back, spacers could help, but will likely need to trim the arches, and maintain the spacers like a service item.
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Yes.. Bolts in through the rear face. Probably stronger that way.
See the images....
I had to do some cosmetic surgery on the wheel arches as the tyres rubbed a little under articulation but improved the turning circle again after losing some steering angle with tall tyres....
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I bought and fitted some Winchmax spacers back in 2014....
Like above, no corrosion or issues to date. They have been off and on many times with hub rebuilds, general maintenance etc.
I've had two bolts (Studs) come loose in that time and subsequently removed all and added a little loctite.
Regularly inspected every time a wheel is off and removed, checked, cleaned and refitted annually.
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I got some canvas covers a few years ago from Escape Gear... Dealt direct with a guy called Jonas in SA who was extremely helpful.
They came in a carry bag which now houses all my recovery gear...
Covers still in top condition and would happily buy a set again...
Neil
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I've not heard or read of any happy customer recently using reconditioned boxes.
Last I read was that Adwest were not selling direct to the public these days and that if you ordered a Britpart OEM steering box you got an Adwest badged product.
Do a bit more searching and if you can buy from Adwest new direct it will be the best solution.
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Once you've checked the tyre pressures and are confident (as advised above) that the brake cylinders are all moving, I'd start looking at the bushes underneath the truck.
Drag link / Hockey stick rubbers will allow the axles to move under braking if they are worn.. This will give a steering effect similar to braking issues.
One other simple / cheap thing to try would be to bleed the brakes to make sure no air in the system upsetting the balance of braking.
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Thinking about this... The ABS light stays on until you go over 5mph on mine..
How does your ECU know you’ve gone above 5mph? Does it use the ABS sensors or the Speedo signals??
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A simple check to see if the code will go away would be to run a wire from that earth point indicated to the battery negative.
Have a good look under the wires for another earth point because mine has several wires on the post so it maybe a wire you've not discovered yet that has a bad earth.
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Mine is further down on a post in the floor of the box, although that bolt indicated is threaded into the fabric of the shelf which should also be a good earth.
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Ross.....
Please remember it's a Land Rover.... Respect the tolerances it was designed with and you'll be ok...
Stand back... Lean head left or right and think.... "Does that look about right?"
Sorted !!
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Coming out of the closet....
We have a milk float.... White Nissan Leaf 30Kw (Black Edition...)
I commute 24 miles each way to work and don’t drive it for economy... I charge up daily in work and only charge it home if I need to.
(Effectively free fuel...)Real world range travelling within the speed limits is up to 100 miles . (Further at 50 mph than you get at a constant 70 mph as you would expect)
It really accelerates fast and will typically keep with or beat the average 2.0 eurobox to 70..... (Around 8 seconds 0 - 60)
Harvesting on deceleration, as mentioned above, slows the car down quite a lot but doesn’t put the brake lights on... I’m very wary that I slow down a lot faster than other drivers might expect.
At motorway services using a 50 amp DC charger I can get an 80% charge in 45 minutes... Time for a bio break and a coffee....
The infrastructure is unreliable at present. On the occasions I’ve needed to charge at motorway services, one of the chargers has not been working.
Using the Milk Float for my commute saves me money. I pay a monthly lease and insure it. Pretty much no servicing... Tyres will wear but hoping to get 20k from the front and more from the back....
The fuel I’m not using in the 90, the lack of servicing of the 90 and reduced insurance annually due to lower mileage is covering the cost of the Milk Float based on 12k miles per year commute.
I’ve only done a few long journeys so far, but we didn’t get the car for long journeys in reality, so not really worried about the weaknesses in the infrastructure at present.
The current estimates are that the current infrastructure (Not sure if it was also capacity) in the UK National Grid could sustain 15 million EV’s now. I’m sure there were some caveats there to... Charging off-peak overnight etc.
There are less than 250k EV’s on the roads at present.
If you were to consider a Bolinger for a farm vehicle, the capacity would be more than enough for average daily use.
It would probably be ok for the Chelsea Taxi role too, but as soon as you use it for longer journeys, you have to plan your routes, plan stops, build in charge time etc.
When EV’s have a real world range of 350 miles with a charge time under 30 minutes and an infrastructure similar to the current fuel network they will be come a real consideration for a lot of people.
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32 minutes ago, Scotts90 said:
Back to Goblin though, the Coyote Mustang V8 Capri: so many questions, so many issues. No answers.
Did they really stick a 500hp engine in a Capri and leave the standard brakes on it? C'mon 2.8injection legs with princess 4pots was a mod we did for 2.0pinto escorts....30yrs ago! Drivetrain? At the very least an old Cossie box/prop and diff would've coped...then the electrics... "A nightmare wiring up the old loom to the new"... really?? Didn't think Ford liked standalone ecu systems for their premium engines (unlike GM who will gladly tart out a specc'd up LS to fit anything).
They really missed a trick and could easily have spread that conversion out over a few episodes. Shame.
I thought the same.... If they were credible as a garage I'd like to think they actually spent some money on the running gear, but it wasn't included in their budget run through, so are they really putting safe cars back on the road?
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Looks like the recommendation from Mutley is right....
https://www.amazon.co.uk/286-Capless-Dashboard-Bulbs-1-2w/dp/B002BB53IU
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The one on the left looks like the bulbs in the TD5 clocks.. Small n fiddly. Sorry, but no idea of numbers as I generally walk into the spares shop and say "One of them please..."
Maybe they will be listed in the parts manuals posted in the tech archive??
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If the puma still has the 10AS unit, then something like Nanocom / Hawkeye should suffice. (They program keys for Td5 and they have the 10AS alarm unit.)
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They missed out the interesting stuff...
What did he do to switch to 2 wheel drive? Lock the transfer box and remove front prop / diff / axle?
What did they use on the front axle ends.. Standard stub axle without CV's ??
Very little actual engineering in-house, even though they are capable, and a lot of farming out pretty stuff....
Auto box operating lever
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
FRC8744
http://lrcat.com/#32/4/45757