Smego

I want to go but struggle to get motivated these days :-(

Who cares what some old codger wanted it to look like years ago, paint it in the colour you like.

The hazard one has multible pins as when the hazards are on it cuts the suppy from the indicator, if the switch doesn't contact the symptom is often no indicators, a hard push normaly "fixes" it. Cheaper eBay are ok but found you need to open them and add switch grease to make then work ok. I have moved my interior light switch to a simple flick one on my raised centre console so the kids can reach it when I need it on. For the heated rear window, bypass the voltage sensing relay with a normal one and a cheap timer switch.

My 1998 110 seems to be the latter too, when I have the time amd a nice day I will take one out and have a proper look, the lock is definitely better, now I am gping to have to investigate these plus 50mm bolt on arches to arrest the extra mud that bounces up the sides!

Cool ta, will take one tight out and have a look, definately have sone sort of sleave on them though.

I seem to have the same issue as the original poster, their does seem to be soacers stopping me winding the stopper bolts in any further. With the wheel spacers I now have about 2 inches still to go befor the tyres touch the radius arms but no more "do-eey up on the bolts, when I have moor time I will take them off, clean up amd look again.

Thank you! Just what I needed, don't know why that didnt come up when I searched?

Without patronising me, can anyone give me details of where to look for this fuel stop solenoid, is it something a diy not particularly mechanically minded person could do? I can do electrics so that bit isn't a worry. Ta.

Assume this is likely to be a sticky relay? Having to sometimes stall it to cut the engine, seems to be when it it raining more? 1988 ex rd truck fitted with a defender 200tdi btw

Just reread this, before the lift the 33" x 12.50 didn't fit at all.

Eh????

No idea what the offset codes mean or how to tell what mine are, basically if I was to screw in the stops rendering them ineffective the rear tread would scour the radius arms and the front rub the inner arch. So with stops adjusted the rubbing us no linger there but it does affect the turning circle and I would like to add spacers to decrease that circle slightly, that bit I know will happen and I think the answer to the actual question has also been answered which is that the alloy spacers won't react badly to the steel hubs and steel wheels? I am surprised that only paint is enough to stop this bit assume it is due to them being held tightly so no rubbing.

Trim the arches? Why would so want to do that I have loads if space under the arches 😂 it's the inner arch between the wheel and the engine bay it catches on "full" lock (well as full as it possible on 33's...! I thought standard 110 tyres were only 29' will have to go measure one as not had them on since 2012! PS my truck has a 2" lift!

Sterring stops stops have been adjusted to the point where they just start to tickle the arches, nothing more can be done apart from move the wheels out a touch. Thought Raptor products had a great rep? My main question was can I fit steels tobl alloy spacers or do I need a sort of gasket to stop the two metals reacting to each other?

I have 33' on steel wheels and steering lock is pants so thinking of getting 30mm spacers raptor alloy ones are £99 but steel ones are double that Question is will alloy ones cause alloy/steel corrosion and on that subject why doesn't my normal car with alloys?