oap
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Posts posted by oap
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I need to change the pinion seal on the front diff of my 110 td5 and after a couple of hours taking off the propshaft and draining the diff i'm stuck at the pinion nut (bolt).
I spent half an hour or so this evening trying to move it and I gave up when it got dark. Its 15mm and I wonder if its left hand thread? or maybe I just need a bigger prybar?
Thanks for any advice.
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fair point but I was using the 'H' shape to demonstrate the 4 points of selection rather than how to select. I didn't say anything about having to go through neutral to select diff-lock
Sorry, I thought your first post was suggesting that it had to go through neutral to click the difflock on or off, my mistake.
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Yep pin 19 as OAP said
Though not the cheapest rev counters in the world unfortunately 
Thats true, possible yes, feasible no, (for me anyway)
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It sure is, I cant post a link but do a search on ebay for td5 rev counter and you will find plenty. They plug into the ECU under the drivers seat (not the alternator, pin 19 I think.
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the selection is shaped like an 'H'
to the bottom left you have diff-lock on, high gear
to the top left you have diff-lock on, low gear
to the top right you have diff-lock off, low gear
to the bottom right you have diff-lock off, high gear
smack bang in the middle is neutral
Well thats wrong because you dont need to go through netural to select difflock, so its more like a B than an H
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On my D reg land rover 90 I have trouble trying to get the difflock lever back into the r/h position. It engages in the l/h position ok and the difflock works, but most the time I can only get it back into the middle position, does this disengage the difflock. As ever since I have had the 90 the difflock light hasnt worked. It will go into the r/h position occasionly but it needs alot of force.
Will it be ok to use until i have the time to look into whats causing the problem, and any ideas what the problem I might have as most issues reported are trying to get it into l/h position not r/h.
Most lightly the linkage needs adjusting and if the light on the dash is not working you will have no way of knowing if the diff is locked or not. Its not worth taking the chance and maybe wrecking your transmission on the way home. The linkage is handy enough to work on just have to spend some time taking the center tunnel out.
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Hi there, just got into my 300tdi 90 and noticed a couple of drops of oil under the clutch pedal. Ive heard that this could be the clutch master cylinder, am i correct? Also, is this amount of oil worth worrying about? Thanks in advance guys, Josh
You are correct more than lightly. The amount of oil is nothing to worry about but its not going to get any better just worse. Make sure to replace the slave cylinder at the same time as its sure to fail shortly after the master cylinder.
You could just keep toping up cluch fluid but then there is always the risk of getting stranded somewhere with no clutch when it lets go completly.
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As far as I know if its earlier than 07 fit what ever bullbar you like, but newer than this and you could have some problems. I think.
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I put a camera on mine and the monitor clips over the rear view mirror. The parts cost about £100 and it took me a day to sort out all the wiring but Im very pleased with it. I have driven cars with parking sensors but they cant compare with a rear view camera.
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You haven't developed the proper technique.
Wait for traffic to stop.
Seatbelt off, clamber/lean awkwardly across the cubby box to reach the winder.
Realise truck is still in gear as it lurches forward towards stationary traffic.
Clamber back into the drivers seat, press clutch, stop. Select neutral, handbrake on.
Reclamber half across cubby box and open window with fingertips just reaching winder; a 1/2 turn at a time, with your face on the passenger seat.
Wonder what all the beeping is.
Struggle back into the drivers seat to realise traffic ahead moved off 30 seconds ago.
Select 1st and drive off with the handbrake still applied.
Freeze all the way home because there's nowhere to stop and close the window again.
Exactly the technique I'm getting tired of. -
Has anyone retro fitted one touch electric windows to their defender if so how did you fit it ???? cheers chris
I'd like to do the same on my 110 hardtop, sometimes the passanger window gets steamed up in wet weather making that wing mirror usless and its impossable to lean across the cubby box to wipe it while driving.
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[quote name='errol209' date='03 July 2010 - 04:41 PM
Les' method with the arm still on the box would mean tapping the insert out from the bottom upwards, I can see why you're struggling.
Well that explains why I failed to shift one last month, I even bent the g-clamp (a good quality one )before I gave up and left it in there but replaced every thing else.
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the flash part on the headlight stalk no longer works?
new stalk required, or something easier to fix it?
'84 One Ten
Yeah its proberly the problem at least it was on mine. Its not a big job though, half an hour maybe but the switch was expensive from Landrover.
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Job done it was just a matter of adjusting the push rod and pedal travel as Westeren said. Thank God thats finished and thank you for all the help.
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Just done a reply about bleeding the clutch over on boards.ie as well. I can never bled them fully, just enough to get gears to engage, rest works it way out over time. This assumes you've go the pedal set as Les and Western say. The missing spring won't affect the bleeding but needs to be in place otherwise yuo're just relying on the internal spring in the cylinder.
If you still have problems, pm me with your mobile, I'm not too far away and may be in Limerick next week.
Cheers Sean I'll give it another go tommorow and pm sent
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the return spring shown in the above diagram hooks onto the pedal arm & the other end should have a small plate that is fitted as a washer under one of the upper 2 bolts heads. items 10 & 11 on diagram below.
I,ll be down at the scrap yard Monday spending more money then
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Thanks for the help Western and no I did not follow that guide I just copyed the distance to the nuts on the old cylinder. I have printed that guide out just now and will follow it tommorow. The spring that pulls the pedal up is missing on mine also. Thanks again bet thats the problem
I presume this can be done without taking the pedal assembly out again?Les I'd the last 50mm of travel has some pressure on it after I'd spent 15 minutes bleeding it
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very simple to do so don't be afraid to try.
I've just spent the last 4 hours replacing the master cylinder and now I've no clutch.
It was fine before I started just the fluid running down the pedal. Maybe I've not blead it properly I used a one way valve thing from Halfords that may be faulty (poor work men always blame there tools). If I press the pedal right to the floor I can just manage to get all forward gears but not reverse. Any ideas? -
Hi All,yesterday I noticed a couple of fluid drops on the floor mat (03 Defender TD5 120,000ks)traced it to clutch pedal.
Just wondering if it is comming from master cylinder or elsewhere,and can I fix it myself,pretty good at DIY,or will I need to take it into the Stealer,any response will be much appreciated
Like Western said that will be the master cylinder. I got one from Paddocks in the post today and hope to fit it Saturday, I've have not done this job before but there is a good guide on how its done here in the tech help section and if you don't have a go you will never learn.
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disconnect the sensor & follow the tech atricle, the clutch pedal assembly has the overcentre spring as does the 300tdi assembly, the pedal height set up is in this forum too, [146mm from bare floor to bottom of the pedal bare metal pad]
Cheers Western your a star
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Can anyone tell me if its the same as on the "tech guides" or different?
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I havn't looked at the guide but I would replace both the master and slave at the same time, if you don't do both the other will only pop....
Jason.
You got that right I replaced the slave cylinder at the end of January
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I'm about to replace one on my 110 and as its a td5 I just need to know if I follow the same method thats in the "tech help guides". Les Henson does both a 2.5 n/a and 300 tdi on them but the master cylinder on mine has a few more wires coming from it, so do I just disconnect them and follow the guides? Thanks for any advice OAP
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Im on a budget so I have come up with a cheapish fix, piece of ply wood cut to size and a while ago I picked up some black carpet which I intend to use some of to cover the ply before I attach it to my rear door
Cheers Paul
Wont the ply be to thick to let you close the door?
I have done this myself but with 3mm hard board covered it black fake leather. It does the job but it still takes a good shove to close it.
Though not the cheapest rev counters in the world unfortunately 
Exactly the technique I'm getting tired of.
It was fine before I started just the fluid running down the pedal. Maybe I've not blead it properly I used a one way valve thing from Halfords that may be faulty (poor work men always blame there tools). If I press the pedal right to the floor I can just manage to get all forward gears but not reverse. Any ideas? 
Pinion nut
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks Diff its coming off tommorow then.