sotal

I'll argue it a little... It partially depends on which version of the 1.9tdi you have got in the galaxy. It came as 90bhp, 115bhp, 130bhp, or 150bhp. If you had the 150bhp galaxy then the freelander would be negligible in differences. If you had the 90bhp galaxy then the freelander will seem a lot better. You will find the Freelander has more torque (400Nm vs 310Nm in the galaxy - which will help with towing) Also you can't compare the Ford TDCI engines in with this comparison as the Galaxies (at that age) aren't really a Ford - they are a rebadged VW, so have the VW PD engines which to me feel loads nippier than the TDCI engines and even though they're older technology seem to provide better mpg than the TDCI. To be honest though your towing question doesn't really matter as the weight your wanting to tow can easily be towed by most hatchbacks without any problems. My wife has the 115bhp 1.9tdi Ghia Galaxy - It's been an excellent car - reliability is so much better than Land Rover (doesn't mean I prefer it to LR though! )

Damn - took too long to decide and it was sold! Still on the look out for one as close to a grand as possible! Thanks for the help and advice

Thanks mate, The VCU was mentioned but to be honest I don't know what it is! Need to read up - as I understood it the IRD is the bit that changes the speed of drive to the rear wheels, and the VCU is the viscous coupling that connects to the prop? I presume both will be gone so will be quite expensive to sort? Just out of interest will it do any harm to drive in 2wd? If I were to crash would the insurance company have something to say about the missing prop? Any bother with MOT? I only need it for popping to work and back - 5 miles, could do with the size of vehicle for moving boxes to and fro from work.

I'm looking at a 1999 top spec model with a suspected broken IRD unit. It's a 2.0 di. First question is the IRD going to be expensive - I'm guesstimating around £600 Second - is the 2.0 di OK? Is it better than the td4? in terms of reliability Third - Would you go for it? Fourth - Rough estimate on it's worth - mileage is a tad over 110k Fifth - Anything else to look out for? It's currently running fine with the rear prop removed, but if I did buy I'd want to fix that

I bought a cheapo set from ebay the other day - same as these ones: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BIG-CIRCLIP-PLIERS-9-HEAVY-DUTY-SIR-CLIP-CIR-NEW_W0QQitemZ400077626487QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Hand_Tools_Equipment?hash=item5d267c1c77 and they have been really good - can't fault them. I bought cheap as I am only likely to need them for the one job which I'm doing now - then won't need them for a few years, I've never needed any that big before anyway. The quality seems really good, much better than my small interchangeable set.

The problem is it isn't just a few quid it's £400 (OEM/Genuine) vs £100 (Britpart) I'm going down the route of trying to source quality replacement bearings from bearing suppliers and I've since had some better prices quoted from Dunsfold LR

I'm a biker too and hate oil / diesel on the road - broke my elbow due to an inconsiderate lorry driver deciding that stuffing a rag in his fuel filler as he'd lost the cap would be a good idea. That was one of the main for doing my rear crank seal this year! But the amount that comes out of the breather doesn't even make it to the road, I've had perhaps two drips come out, and they're still making their way down the inner wing. My initial idea was to use the brake vacuum tank (making it unsealed in the process) as it's no longer used and could be a nice container to catch any oil but the amount is so little I never bothered

Last time I enquired in my local land rover parts place they sold it by the meter either teh old style rivet stuff or the newer style stuff - it wasn't very expensive

The wading plugs are normally fitted to seal bits up then removed to let oil etc drain out in day to day running. If you fitted breather pipes that went up then the oil wouldn't be able to drain away so in my opinion it wouldn't be a good idea. I've not had a problem with my breather pipe being at the top of the inner wing - but I've only been as deep as the seat bases - not often you want to go any deeper. I would have thought though that the fact that it is breathing would stop water ingress

Mine is just tucked back into the inner wing, hardly any oil ever comes out of it

Another 10 hits with the rubber mallet saw the bearing removed. So that box is as stripped as I want to go, now I'm going to strip another box and hopefully find some more useable parts!

I agree completley! It wasn't that loud but our garage is underneath our bedroom, and our toddler was asleep upstairs - so I was getting nagged. I've been impressed with the amount of time I've been able to spend on the gearbox so I can't moan too much! On a positive note I managed to get a brand new suffix D synchro hub for £20 from ebay, and a kind forum member of another forum sent me a pair of brand new synchro baulk rings (is that the right name) the two brass rings. So I'm starting to get a collection of brand new bits to fit

Didn't have a copper or alluminium faced hammer, so I used the rubber mallet. I heated the inner race up first with the blow torch then put it in the vice as you suggested it and belted it, I did loose a little of the face of my rubber mallet but the bearing has moved off about half way - had to stop as the wife said I was making too much noise

yep circlip was removed - not tried again yet but will try that way round.

Les I viewed it once earlier then forgot what it was and viewed it again Yep best make myself look busy for the next 50 minutes until hometime That makes a little more sense cipx2, although theoretically I can't imagine that a problem would ever occur from that scenario - it's exactly what mysql databases were designed to do.

But I read that thread twice and haven't replied at all! Yes I have got work to do - but I'm trying to avoid it

Noticed a few times that when looking at the list of threads the stats don't seem to make sense. I've just looked in the series forum and the thread at the top is: "Measurements for AMR3098" and the stats are: # 1 Replies # 0 Views How can it have 1 reply but 0 views? I realise it's not the most important thing but thought it should be mentioned

That was after it had been through the parts washer!! It's badly pitted over that darker section Think it's going to have to be a replacement shaft for the reverse gear. Will get a bit more serious with that bearing! It's in a so0ft jaw vice at the moment, I've tried all sorts of drifts and even moved up to a bigger hammer! Will try a bit of heat from the blow torch

I Still can't get that bearing off! Did some more work on it tonight though and stripped it down a bit further - reverse gear shaft looks knackered to me, I couldn't even turn the gear on the shaft - no idea how it worked before! Pictures can be viewed here: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/celica1.8st/Anotherday?authkey=Gv1sRgCNqptamQrI2SUA&feat=directlink

I'll have another go tonight on that basis

Yep the one in the last photo, As it was knackered I tried wacking it with a wooden drift but it didn't budge, someone else has told me you need to use a press to get them off.

The big bearing on the input shaft, it sits in the bellhousing, and the front end of the mainshaft sits in it. http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1305/55714-BEARING-PRIMARY-PINION.html?search=55714&page=1 Cheers

Got sidetracked from the rear crank seal by dismantling the gearbox. So to get back on track I have removed the rear crank seal, initially I thought it looked in perfect condition but on closer inspection I presume the seal used to be ridged all the way down, if you look carefully at the photo it only has ridges for about half of the seal (outer half).

Didn't have much time tonight but I fully dismantled the mainshaft by removing the awkward circlip, and I removed the Input Shaft to remove the primary pinion bearing. Pictures from tonight can be viewed here: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/celica1.8st/Moregearbox?authkey=Gv1sRgCNzSs9zk8M_HhgE&feat=directlink Questions: 1. How do you remove the primary pinion bearing? The haynes manual simple states to press it off. 2. The Mainshaft Bush is supposed to be a 2 peice bush, but my looks like a 1 peice bush that's broken in two - does it look right to you? Cheers

I've got the 1988 Parts Catalogue which has been really useful, I've got the revised Haynes manual which is OK but misses some of the later changes, I've got the Series III Repair manual which floats about the internet but this doesn't have any of the later changes in it.