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Flywheel came off tonight, just tapped it a few times with a rubber mallet then pulled off with cluth cover bolts. Does the Flywheel housing need to come off next to get to the rear crank seal?

I've been using bog standard 20w/50 oil on the series for a while but have a bout run out. My local LR spares place used to do 25L of Morris Ring Free XHD oil, but they don't seem to do the 20w/50 now they only do 15w/40. I presume I'm best sticking to 20/50? What sort of price does everyone else pay for 25L drums? The 15w/40 is £28+vat for 25 litres The 20w/50 is £12.61+vat for 5 litres = £63.05 for 25L - it used to be more like £30+vat!

If I chop the swivel crimp off the end, do you think that the barbed bit which flew out of the crimp would push into the pipe with a hose clip to secure? That way I haven't got to spend any pennies! Just don't fancy the end coming off at my head!

That looks like the bit that flew out. It has a crimp on the end of the pipe which that pushed into allowing it to swivel. The ability to swivel seems useful to stop the pipe getting twisted up. I just don't fancy it popping off again. Looking at Machine Mart it was probably this one: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/rh15-rubber-airline-hose-8mm-15-metre/path/air-line-equipment-air-hose So at that money it's probably easy to replace, I've also seen some on reels which would be handy to keep it tidy

I've got to be honest that a total strip down scares me a little! I've not done anything like this before! I've been advised to take the bell housing off in order to replace the three detent springs on the synchro hub. Would this let me see any other potential problems or do I need to strip it further? The amount of metal there could add up to three springs

I've had my compressor for about 6 years now, it's nothing fancy just a machine mart £150 type thing. When I got it I bought a long black hose, over the last year I've noticed that the ends of the pipe were starting to perish. Then whilst using it today with an air ratchet it started hissing. I took the ratchet off and was trying to work out where the air was coming from when suddenly the end popped off the hose (which made me jump!) Just glad I was holding both sides as it came off with some force. Past a few cm the pipe looks fine, is it worth having the pipe cut and new ends put on? I'm guessing it's probably not worth it? Is there any advice to stop it happening again. (am I doing anything wrong?) I do tend to leave the compressor full of air which I know isn't recommended, and I leave the pipe full of air. I had a backup pipe which got the job finished today (one of those orange coil hoses which comes free) this time I switched the tap off at the outlet then let the air out of the pipe - is that something I should normally do?

Today was spent doing the following: Remove both propshafts from gearbox (made easy using air ratchet) Remove last bolt holding handbrake pivot in place. Remove clutch slave cylinder Undo gearbox mount bolts Undo bellhousing bolts (was going easy with air ratchet until the end of my pipe popped) Withdrew the gearbox using the engine hoist (so easy!) Made a quick gearbox stand out of some scrap wood Remove Clutch Cover and clutch Remove Flywheel Bolts So I'm getting close to the rear crank seal now! I've posted a couple of other posts today such as the contents of the oil and how to remove the flywheel - so hopefully I'll give that another go tomorrow!

Few more pics:

It's not been too bad to get the gearbox out, I spent half a day removing the floor and seatbox, then I had the gearbox out by lunch time today so only 1 day in total. Clutch was fine and 1st and 2nd engaged perfectly it was just 3rd and 4th. They go in ok if you change very slowly and use a bit of 'feel' I've driven it like that for years. The problem only came when going up hills and you needed to drop from 4th to 3rd quickly

Thanks for the reply. Do you think it is essential to remove the starter motor? Or should I try levering as is? I'd already put two of the original bolts back in incase it did come and they're just wound on a few threads. Also is it normal for oil to come out when you remove the bolts (out of the holes) or is this just further confirmation of the rear crank seal being knackered?

I pulled the gearbox out today - quite impressed with myself for managing on my own with the help of my new engine hoist! I asked the other day if the gearbox has to go out of the passenger door as everyone says it has to, I didn't get an answer to that bit so incase anyone needs to know I can't see any reason why everyone says to go out of the passenger door! It fits out of the drivers door with acres of space. Obviously you have to remove the steering wheel but that's a piddly job compared to the rest of it! Anyway I drained the contents of the main gearbox. Quite a bit of metal dropped out but it all looks like flat plate mashed up so I hope it is all detent springs from the synchro? Can anyone confirm? Apologies for attached picture - I only got to take one picture before the batteries went flat so now have to wait for them to charge. If you need any close ups just ask. Oil was black/greyish, there didn't seem that much in there. Just as a reminder the gearbox has been the same since I put it in 3 or 4 years ago. It goes into all gears ok and stays in gear but 3rd and 4th crunch quite often. The gearbox generally seems a bit noisy. It's a suffix D box. It's been a bit neglected during my ownership due to it's problems and knowing I would one day pull it out. I've never even checked the oil level in it. Does it seem OK to fix up? My alternatives are a series 2a box (the original from this - never used it so condition uknown), or I have a series 3 box which won't stay in 2nd.

I'm working my way towards replacing my rear crank seal. So far I have the gearbox out and have removed the clutch. I have also removed the bolts which hold the flywheel on but it doesn't seem to want to come out. Do I need to remove the starter motor to remove it? It's a 5mb series 3 engine 2.25d Thanks

Thanks for that, from that info I found this guide: http://www.lro.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=32132 Looks fun

If it helps anyone else I also found the following link whilst searching: http://www.landrover.net/overdrive/ I think that it is the same manual at the bottom as the link posted above but it has a whiter background so it's better for printing

Right so to just remove it to start with I need to purchase the following: Sealant (instead of gasket) Lock tab washer (is that RTC7169?) Possibly need the special tool 600300 for the mainshaft nut?? Is there an alternative? What size is it? Then off my gearbox I need the drive gear and the PTO cover. Also is a series 2a box the same as far as this is concerned? I have a 2a box spare which I could take these bits off first. Anything else?

Thanks for that excellent link - will print that off. It looks like the PTO Cover has a gasket - is that a replaceable gasket that I need to get ready? Just need to make sure I have everything with me to do the job - I can fit the overdrive at my leisure afterwards - just seems too good an offer to pass up on!

I've got a friend who has a series which just does short slow speed journeys mainly on the farm. He has an overdrive fitted to his series 3 gearbox. I was talking with him the other day and he was saying what a waste of time it was for the driving his land rover does, so said I could have it providing that: I swapped it, I didn't mess anything up, I put on whatever parts are needed to fill the hole where it was. I'm fetching my gearbox out at the moment so that I can have ago at replacing the detent springs and change the rear crank seal on the engine - so now seems a good time to do it. What would I need to take off my box to put on his? Are all different suffixs identical? Is it fairly straight forward to remove his? Anything to watch out for?

I've now got a hoist, so my plan is to take off the truck cab roof (got a new windscreen seal waiting to go on so it needed to come off anyway), then use the hoist to lift out the gearbox. Just haven't had any time recently and it doesn't stay light enough in the evenings any more.

I've been borrowing a MIG to do work on Land Rovers and I'm OK with it when it works. The annoying thing with it is that the wire has gone a little rusty and jams in the feed. When it does this you have to spend 10 minutes taking the wire out and rethreading it (which is made worse by the fact it really needs a new liner). As it's not mine I don't want to go to any major expense in repairing / replacing bits - but it drives you mad to use it - sometimes it will work fine for 10 mins then it will start jamming and it might jam after 10 seconds etc. These arc welders seem simpler from that point of view and at that price I can't moan. Would it be suitable for some B post repair work on my series? As that's the next job

They wanted £75 for it, I ended up getting a newer one in perfect working order complete with chains for £90. I'd have spent £15 in fuel alone to collect the broken one so it just wasn't worth it in the end. Very happy with my new one though. Thanks for all the replies!

All seems great with it, heavier than I thought it would be, but dead easy to move around on it's wheels. Seems a great bit of kit, got a few jobs lined up for it!

Sounds good - that's the exact one I'm picking up later. Should save me busting my back trying to maul the gearbox out

Got them down to £90 should be picking up tomorrow. Thanks for the advice Is there anything I should do to test it when I pick it up? Pump to the top etc? How do I check for faults Cheers!

Thanks for posting that medicated69 - have you got any tips? I'm hopefully going to get an engine hoist anyway to make the job easier but I've no real idea what I'm doing! May be a bit of trial and error!

I'm starting to be convinced, will hopefully go and take a look tonight Thanks for all the replies - it's been very useful. Cheers Matt