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Perfect - where is that from? I have a repair manual which I downloaded but I can't find that

I'll have another look tonight, Will it only fit on one way? As it's on at the moment, or will it only work one way?

I'll have another look tonight, Will it only fit on one way? As it's on at the moment, or will it only work one way?

I've tried emailing Ashcrofts a couple of times but there email address doesn't work it just bounces back each time saying that user doesn't exist. Not sure if they've gone bump? I hope not and that it's just a technical glitch?? Anyone got an alternative email address? I'm using the one off the website which is: info@ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk

Yeah I'd noticed that and got the correct part number. It's a suffix D box out of one of the very last Series 3's. Synchro Cluth Assembly Part Number FRC6996 One thing I was worried about was that someone said it has to go in one way, looking at it, it seems perfectly symmetrical and I don't remember which way it came out!

Thanks Todd, well spotted on that gear, I'll look over it for any more, I have seen a very cheap new (old stock) synchro hub and I tempted to buy it but it's make is unknown - do crappy makes like britpart make these or will I be fairly safe?

My Shopping List currently consists of: Gasket Set 3 x detent clips Bolt in end of layshaft Lock tab washer for rear of main shaft. Primary Pinion Bearing (rumbles a lot) Rear Layshaft Bearing Clutch Release Bearing I still need to pull apart the rest of the box to remove the rear layshaft bearing outer casing so I may find some more bits yet. The only other questionable bit was the roller bearing in the PTO cover bit. It feels smooth if I stick my finger in but there is a little rumble if I spin it on the end of the shaft - it's easy enough to replace at a later date though I guess. So the only question that remains is that a couple of people have mentioned that when their springs went they only had problems from 3rd to 4th but not 4th to 3rd. I have problems both ways, which people have suggested may be something else rather than the detent clips - but I haven't found anything else yet.

Here's all the pictures I took tonight, does that show what you needed to know? Or can anyone see any potential problems? http://picasaweb.google.com/celica1.8st/CleanedUpBits?feat=directlink

Thanks for the replies, Can you buy from Bearmach direct - their website doen't seem to get you anywhere! I'm going to try the three local bearing places I know of and see what they come back with. Not sure I'll be able to see a number on the rear layshaft bearing as it'll probably be on the outer casing (I haven't removed yet) I don't suppose anyone knows the bearing numbers for a rear layshaft bearing? Or a primary pinion bearing on series 3 suffix D box do they? LR Part numbers are RTC1412 and 55714

Hi Todd, thanks for the help - I might need more as it comes to testing the other bits you mentioned! Anyway as promised here are more photos of the synchro hub:

Hi Tuko, Thanks for the image above with arrows on - those teeth look good to me, but I will do as you suggest later and put them up to the third gear to see how they mesh. I'm trying to keep the cost down so would prefer to reuse as many parts as possible, the main purpose of removing the gearbox was to do the rear crank seal on the engine - but I thought I'd quickly do the detent springs whilst the box was out as they were only pence, but now it's spiralling into more and more! It was the comment above by another member that worried me by saying that crunching from 4th to 3rd wouldn't be the detent springs and would be something else - but I can't find anything else on the web to back that statement up and that member hasn't posted back with any further detail

Yep a new bearing is on my shopping list for there. Thanks for the replies

Hi Todd, thanks for the reply can you dumb it down a bit for me? I'm not quite sure which bits you want me to photograph! Cheers

Don't know about number one but would assume if a fail if they stop in the middle of the windscreen Number two my self cancel hasn't worked right for years and has always passed, when the MOT tester tests it he's sitting still so just flicks it on then off, so has no way of knowing

Hum, that was worse than expected! There's a local bearing shop nearby, if I took my knackered series bearings in would they be able to sort me out cheapish with some quality items or is it likely that they will be old/funny sizes that are no longer commonly made/sold?

I've just been pricing up the bits I need for my gearbox so far which consists of 7 gaskets, 3 springs, 2 bearings and a couple of seals. To buy genuine parts it will cost me about £85 delivered, to buy Britpart parts will cost me £14.10. The difference in price is really swaying me towards Britpart but will I regret it? I've been thinking back to the britpart bits I've had which have been no good, and the bits which have been OK. The bits which looked fine but failed quickly all failed on rubber bits (seals etc) I had brake shoes which wouldn't fit I've seen large lumps of metal (rear crossmember etc) which are just rubbish But all the Britpart gaskets and bearings I've had have been fine - was I lucky? The genuine gaskets aren't that much more it's liek 79p instead of 22p, but the bearings are £36 instead of £5. If I remember correctly all the britpart bearings I've had aren't actually britpart they have all been bearing manufacturers stamped in them. Thanks for any advice!

Thanks EJ, the pictures should be below, 1st three are one end the next 3 are the other:

Is there any way to test the synchro unit on the bench to check for wear? Any idea of price / part number for the parts required to replace?

go on....

I've got a few gaskets to replace at the moment, the cost of them isn't alot but I've been told not to bother and use RTV sealant instead. What would you recommend? Is there any bits where one has the advantage over the other? Pros/cons? Thanks

I think the rear layshaft bearing is knackered can anyone confirm? Mine looks like this: A new one looks like this: The outer casing seems to be in the back of the gearbox case, but the bearing looks distorted

Thanks for the reply - I have the haynes manual which I have studying but I'm just feeling a bit overwhelmed! I'm not really sure what half the bits are. Page 68 of the haynes manual shows an exploded view (fig 6.1) of the bits in my photo - but it only shows one detent spring and it's position is vague - is there any more detail anywhere that I've missed? It's all been a huge learning curve so far!

I believe that the detent springs go on the synchro hub on here (I don't know which bit the synchro hub is) Please treat me as someone who know nothing as it's the first time I've been near a gearbox.

Well I set to my gearbox with a bunch of spanner and sockets and now have a pile of gearbox bits. I think I've got the bit out I need to fix but I have no idea where the bits go or what to call anything! Roughly what I did today was: Remove top cover Remove the PTO bit at the back and the castleated nut behind Remove Bell housing Remove selectors - not easy Remove bits of gears and stuff that look way beyond my experience! Start worrying about fixing it and putting it back together! The problem was that I had no synchro on 3rd and 4th and when draining the oil I found all the synchro detent springs in many bits. So I now need to purchase the detent springs and fit them - but without having the old ones in place I have no idea where they go or how to fit them! Pictures will follow in a minute as I took pictures along the way incase I got stuck!

You've both got different engines there, What does everyone else run in the 2.25 diesel engines? I phoned my local supplier and he said they sell Morris Oils 20w/50 in 25 Litre drums but it is £52 +VAT so about twice the price of 15w/40. He said that Morris Oils were too good really for a series engine and I should just buy the cheapest stuff I could find!