sotal

SAL = Land Rover LB = Model: Series III (for early models: Stage One) C = 109 (LWB) M = 4 door Station Wagon H = 2.25 petrol 2 = Left Hand Drive 4 speed manual B = 1979 - 1987 A = Built in Solihull UK Most likely a 1979 - 1987 Series 3 County Station Wagon, LWB, Left Hand Drive with a 2.25 petrol engine

Or even better a 200tdi Another thing to be careful of is that a lot of "replacement" parts won't be as good as the original parts even at there age, so often only replace what needs replacing. A good example is standard leaf springs a lot of people prefer to buy a good old original set rather than a brand new set from britpart.

I know what it's like wanting to do jobs on it - but don't worry the land rover will provide plenty of jobs for you to do!

yeah - seen them on the other forum!

Managed to fix the heater today - replaced the glow plug - cleared the fault codes and it kicked in - seems to work very well. Sounds like a little Jet engine at the back. Would definatley be a great addition to the Series - just not sure if the wiring would work out. I believe it has two power settings which it works out itself on full power it gives of 5kw of heat - which is fairly impressive. The whole unit isn't big and should be easily locateable. If you do get one from a breakers - make sure you get the metering pump (follow diesel line to drivers side) as these rarely break but cost about £100 to replace. You can also grab the ext temp sensor from behind the fake bulkhead in the engine bay - passenger side. Not the most crucial part as you bypass it by connecting the wires together. The coolant temp sensor is built into the unit.

Looks like you had fun - had did they handle the course? Did you get stuck at all? How did the tyres go on that mud?

Out of all that I'd fix the Carb and forget the rest, if your current original leaf springs are still fine then stick with them - original standard springs are better (IMO) than cheap parabolics - If you need to replace your springs then it might be worth a look at parabolics. I was thinking about fitting an electric fan, but not for MPG more for the reason that I have the diesel and it overcools during normal use, and secondly so I can switch it off when I go wading to stop as much spraying over my engine bay. I haven't done yet - the original fan just looks so robust compared to the electric fan and I do give it some abuse! Improved heater is an option in the future if you find it cold

Here is a pic of one of the heaters (from google images) if anyone is interested:

The manual seems to suggest they have a waterpump built in. Just to let you know how much the glow plugs cost... The original type is a BERU one these cost about £30 each but were known to fail after a short amount of time (approx 1 year - from the reports I have read). A revised version was brought out which fixes this issue - not sure of make but it was standard in all the newer Eberspacher Water heaters - this revised one should last many years - The price of the revised glow plug is about £54 To be honest nearly everyone I have seen whch isn't scrapped has not worked (normally due to glow plugs) A lot of owners didn't even realise the heater was there - especially when buying 2nd hand so they never fix them, and with them having the original type plug they are likely to fail. I believe the revised plug was only brought out in 2004

I found some info showing that a very similar model is used as a Central Heating system on a boat so I can't see why not. Not sure if it has a water pump or not. There is a motor in there, but in my head I was thinking the engine waterpump would be pumping the coolant round? Just been taking apart - it's dark though so no pics, had to stop though because of the rain - seems a good little unit. 5KW according to the label

You should be OK - depending on tyres. If you've got road tyres on you might struggle. It had rained before we went last time but was nice on the day and the "mud" was very slippy. It's raining here now - so I guess it is a couple of miles away at silverdale so I expect it will be similar? The mud is strange stuff, as it's a mixture of mud and very fine coal slag dust, I stepped out at one point to check round the vehicle and nearly ended up on my backside

Yeah - it's just up the road, last went a few months ago. Excellent off road site, hopefully you've got a good few mods on your vehicle??? When I went it was all lifted Discos and Range Rovers there, some expensive kit on some of them, then there was me in my series and one other series motor there! It's a lot more extreme than the other pay and play I go to. It's nearly all in amongst trees, a lot of the pathways that have been made are quite deeply rutted, the place is built on a an old mine so there is a few mineshafts about - but they tape them off when they find them - so don't drive past any tape! If you want a bit of a challenge head up to the top where the 4x4's meet up (open area - no trees) then head down the back - there is some boggy mud down there then you have the challenge of getting back up! My Series has 235/85/16 Aggressive MT tyres on, about 3" lift in total - but is othewise standard with a 2.25 diesel - and mine was more than capable. I did pick up a fair few scratches, one smashed headlight, a bent bumper, a bent outer wing and a bent front wing panel on the other side! All in all great fun and a great day out

Found a tech manual: http://www.espar.com/tech_manuals/Hydronic...202003%20JE.pdf Has wiring diagram - from looking at pics it appears the control unit is housed inside the heater unit.

As Mark says could be a Rangie Chassis. According to DVLA it's a 1971 3.5 litre Petrol. So it isn't registered correctly but could have once been a range rover V8? Not sure on exact years of Range Rovers? Even so it would need chassis mods to put the different rear cross member on so would still technically need an SVA

I'll get some pictures taken at the weekend so you can see what the units like - does look promising for the series - I'll be looking out for one in the scrappy now.

Not sure if it has the control box or if that is part of the ECU? I've only found out due to the wife having a Ford Galaxy last week and I was quite surprised to find the Eberpacher at the back! I've been through the Eberspacher website and there is a manual for a similar model. Got to take it apart at the weekend to replace the (rather expensive) glow plug, as I'm getting a fault code on Open/Short on Aux Heater Glow Plug, so I'll have a look at what's there. Just looks a perfect unit to add to the series, and should be available cheap from a scrap Galaxy. I believe that all the diesel model ones have had the heaters fitted up to the latest model 2006 where they stopped fitting them in this country

I've just found out that all Ford Galaxy/VW Sharan/Seat Alhambra Diesels came with an eberspacher coolant heater fitted as standard - Most breakers don't know about this and don't know what they are. So they should be cheap. So on to the question - They are linked into an ECU in the vehicle which controls them would it be easy to operate without the ECU? The standard configuration has 3 criteria. The external temp must be less than 10 degrees C, the Coolant Temp must be less than 85 degrees C and the engine must be running. I believe the Model on them is a Hydronic D5WZ. Looks to be a simple device with air intake, exhaust, coolant in, coolant out and diesel in. The only components I know of, are the Ext Temp Sensor (switch - can be bypassed by connecting the two wires together), diesel metering pump, and the main unit it's self - and I guess the ECU. Not sure if it has it's own coolant sensor or if it uses the vehicles? The ECU seems quite well linked into the unit, and stores error codes etc, and locks the unit out after x amount of flame out errors. The standard ECU can be interrogated through the ODB11 Port using a VAGCOM cable and some free software - this will clear faults and reset the unit. I've seen a kit on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EBERSPACHER-HYDRONIC...%3A1|240%3A1318 Which claims to make it run independently of the vehicles engine. This isn't really necessary as I would want it to run with the engine on - to aid warming up. I'm also not fussed about the 7 day timer. The price of that kit also makes it a waste of time - might as well buy a 12v Air heater version. Just wondered if anyone had any experience running these without all the vehicle wiring?

Why do you say that? Is it a comment about just your body or do you think that all 109 Bodies won't stand being lifted in one peice? Reason I ask is we are doing this with a 109 in a couple of weeks time, complete body off inc bulkhead and doors, swing across and drop onto prep'd chassis. We're using a Hi-ab to lift and swing it across. Spoken with someone on another forum who has done this with a CSW

Sounds a good way to try from the engine number, fingers crossed it hasn't had an engine swap! Sounds like you have a good backup plan in place if all fails though. What were you hoping for price wise? I did think about doing a couple for profit - but the market has really taken a dive

The best thing about brush painting is the ease of touching up in the future when you scratch it

A difficult market really to price at the moment. The top wack end of the market seems to be demanding galv chassis' under them and tax exempt status. Make sure the MOT's are from a big garage not a small back street garage as people have been checking on that due to little back street garages doing favours especially on this type of motor. Price really does depend on if you can get the right buyer. If they don't look like they'll need a lot of work in the future you are probably looking at up to a grand. Can't see it going much above that unless you are lucky. Did you manage to sort out the red ones identity? The previous owner seemed a little stuck without the VIN/Reg

Are the above guides also applicable to the td5 or does that use a different system?

Just gave Whatcar a go with your details as they do a free valuation. Couldn't find the XS though so had to put the higher model which is ES. It came back as about £5000 for a private sale or £6000 on a forecourt!!! What a Joke I'd guess at a round £1500 from what I've seen recently

Smithwrecker Is yours an Automatic Disco From 1995 onwards?

Mine wouldn't start when it was warm when I first got it. Not 100% sure what fixed it but I think it was the Glow Plug Relay - Just can't put a reason to it. I removed the relay and cleaned all the green off the contacts, replaced the relay - had a poke around the engine bay looking for anything else, then it started (which it probably would have done as it had been a few minutes) - but then after that I never had the problem again. The system that Disco_Sev mentions above is (I think) different to the EDC system. I have the little black box on top of the stop solonoid on some vehicles called the DDS - Digital Diesel Stop or something like that - it was aimed at stopping people just running a 12v wire across to bypass the immobiliser. Maybe Discos with this system on didn't have the Spider? TAZA - Take a look at your Fuel Injection Pump, towards the back of it you should see the stop solonoid - it screwed in with a 24mm hex body. Does this have a black box on top? or does it just have a single wire going to a thread on top?