Tetsu0san

January 4, 2019

Hey ho, me again. So I have a few other queries if you'd be so kind. I have replaced the engine with one out of my old Discovery auto (converted to a manual pump, swapped out all the other Discovery bits) and I've got it running! What a result! But I'd like to know the routes of all the pipework around the back and sides of the engine as all mine was melted. Could one of you lovely people take a few pictures of the route of the breather pipe that goes around the back of the engine from the cyclone filter to the air intake? Also the EGR valve loom, and any of the loom that goes around the back of the engine?

Anyway, for your enjoyment...

Two engines side by side. One is an EDC auto from a Discovery, the other is the Defender engine.

Discovery engine with everything swapped over from the Defender engine, including a brand new clutch

Engine bay cleaned off and ready to take the new engine

New engine in!!!

November 22, 2018

13 hours ago, Scotts90 said:

I tend to find that a high percentage of rebuild and restoration costs come down to labour as not everyone has the means/methods or indeed time to carry out extensive repairs.

I'd certainly not even entertain the idea of taking on a project like this if I didn't have the means to do the work myself. Parts are cheap enough, but labour is something else. And I'm not even sure I'd trust anyone to do the work for me.

3 hours ago, Farmerfred said:

Hope this Tetsu0san gives you some idea of what you're in for and what you could end up with. My only parting advice to you would be, whatever needs doing, do it, don't skimp on anything.

I'm not a newbie in doing this kind of work, and labour was never going to be part of the cost equation. I was a little flippant with my reply to you for which I apologise, but that was only because I was asking a fairly simple question about a simple thing and you just came in questioning whether it was actually worth it or not. If there was going to be a third party involved then I'd probably agree that it wasn't worth doing, but I'll be doing all the work myself, I've already got the majority of the parts, so it's only going to be my time that's used. And I wouldn't own numerous Land Rover's if I didn't expect to do work on them. If I had to ship them out for work to be done I'd be broke!

But as a closer, I value everyone's input and I always appreciate someone taking the time to reply to a question, and I try to offer my experience when I can. It's what makes this forum so great.

November 21, 2018

19 hours ago, paime said:

Also worth replacing the swivel ball housing...

These are fine, no pitting, unlike the ones on my 110. But even with them being a bit scabby they haven't torn up the seals yet and don't leak.

17 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Old ones were chrome which is far better than the Teflon coating they used on the later ones.

I fitted some of the Teflon ones to an old 90 I used to have, and the coating started rubbing off almost straight away. I didn't have the 90 long so it wasn't really a problem, but I suspect they'd have had to have been replaced again fairly soon. They were Sh*tpart swivels mind you...

November 19, 2018

1 hour ago, neil110 said:

Anti roll bars were not standard fitment. therefore not required for MoT

Perfect! I need not have spent a couple of hours pulling them off my old Discovery then!

November 19, 2018

1 hour ago, Scotts90 said:

As far as your axle is concerned, the assemblies are the same. The ABS sensor is down through the top pin but the housings are unchanged.

As for the anti roll bars. If they are fitted and faulty (ie worn bushes/broken links) then it’ll fail the MOT, if they’re not fitted then it’s not part of the test.

Why aren’t they on as standard? Your guess is as good as mine...

Thanks for the reply. It's the swivel bearing that's worn, and I'm sure the bearings are fine as the wheel rotates fine and doesn't make a noise. I'll just leave the anti-roll bar off and that'll be that.

1 hour ago, Scotts90 said:

Trying to get project defenders for sensible cash is proving very hard. I've seen a lot worse than what's pictured above going for £2-3k, if you're handy with a spanner and like most of us have a healthy collection of bits it make perfect sense to rescue and restore these.

Precisely. I've got a fair few bit's an pieces and it's not an expensive thing to repair. I will be replacing the engine because this one is a bit knackered but that's not too hard as I have a spare engine. The Defender itself didn't cost a huge amount and when it's finished and MOT'd it'll be worth a whole lot more than I paid. And (hopefully) it'll make an ideal first car for my Daughter.

1 hour ago, landroversforever said:

That age will be bearings top and bottom in the swivel

Thanks, that's what I hoped it'd be.

November 19, 2018

14 minutes ago, Farmerfred said:

Is it really worth it? From what I can see you're going to have to spend a shed load of money putting it right, I'm not saying it's impossible and beyond it but looking at that under bonnet fire aftermath you may be better off parting it out for spares and spending the money on something in roadworthy condition. Who knows what you'll find when you dive into it.

Thank you for your concern, but yes, it's worth it. I've already got the majority of the bits to fix it up and currently it's running, driving, and stopping. I just needed some knowledge on the questions above, that's all.

November 19, 2018

Hi all

I've recently acquired a P reg Defender 90 which has been used on a farm for a few years. It's rough. I've a list as long as my arm for bits to fix up and replace and it's getting longer and longer!

Anyway, I've just found out that the reason why the N/S wheel was always sloping inwards was because the swivel bearings have pretty much given up and need replacing. Are they bearings top and bottom or are they railko like on my 110? I have the front axle off of my R reg Discovery and the swivels were really good, but it had ABS. Are swivels, bearings, mountings etc different between ABS and non-ABS?

And while underneath I found that it doesn't have any anti-roll bars. Is this correct? My '84 110 doesn't have them which is understandable, but I'd have thought a late 90's 90 would have. I don't mind if it didn't have them from new but I don't want to turn up to an MOT and they turn me away because they're not fitted. The front chassis mounts exist (albeit bent) but the rear mounts are missing anyway as the chassis has been welded up.

Pictures for your amusement:

Cheers all.

July 16, 2018

Is that all? I'd pat myself on the back for having such a delightful Landy. I'd also check to see if any of it still has oil in it.

June 13, 2018

More updates!

The underside around the engine was very oily indeed so I covered it in degreaser and jet washed it all off. Still a few bits left here and there and there is still a fairly pronounced leak but at least I can see the engine now. It also looks like I'll be welding up the front arches, cills, and footwells too now though...

Did a transmission oil change and this has improved the gear changes quite a bit, which is nice. The fluid that came out didn't particularly smell burnt but it was pretty black. I did reconnect a connector at the front that had come off (or been taken off) and now I get a transmission warning light come on. This goes off when at 50mph+ and everything changes as it should and it goes OK so I'm not overly concerned. Going to clean out the fins on the oil cooler and maybe clean out the cooler at some point.

I still hate underseal....

June 8, 2018

52 minutes ago, Ally V8 said:

Trying to give up booze... A £20 note would do it.

Funnily enough so am I. Must be something in the water....

June 8, 2018

Thanks to all the replies, and I have an update (of sorts).

I've been driving it now as a daily driver and it all seemed OK generally, however yesterday when driving home the exhaust decided to split in two so last night was spent welding up the down pipe (a de-cat from a Defender by the look of it as it doesn't have the flexi bit) and also fixing the rear exhaust hanger as that had rotted out. That would explain why the rear pipe was moving around a lot!

Had some information given to me regarding one of my fobs not working so I'm going to hopefully get to the bottom of that.

While I was under there doing the exhaust I had a quick look around and I can see I've got my work cut out if I really want to keep it. I can see holes in the boot floor (not really a problem as I had to do this on my first Discovery), the sills are a bit ropey, and the N/S/R outrigger has rotten across the top. So all these will need welding. And there is a proper nasty oil leak somewhere that has been spewing oil all over the engine, axle, and chassis for a long time now. I've noticed that the vacuum pump cover has been bolted on so I suspect that is most likely where most of the oil is coming from so I'm going to replace that or at the very least try to seal it up again. I know they're renown for splitting and spraying oil all over the place so that's my first port of call.

Also, bloody underseal. What a stupid thing to put on a chassis. All it seems to do is dry out, crack, lift up, and create a mud/water trap all over the place. I'm sure it looks lovely for a while but it should be banned.

No pictures of the work done last night but I will try to upload some pictures as I go.

June 8, 2018

12 hours ago, Ally V8 said:

I can do it for you if you fancy a trip down the M4 to Bath...

I've been given a bit of information on another forum that I'm going to try later but if that doesn't work I might just do that. Is there any particular alcoholic beverage you prefer?

June 7, 2018

Hi all

In relation to my post here I'd like to program an extra fob for my Discovery. It's an R reg Disco with the two button fob and I believe I need Testbook (?) or similar to be able to code my ECU to take the fob.

Is there anyone who could help me (beer/wine tokens available) or could point me to a what I'd need to get hold of and some guidance/instructions on how to do it?

Many thanks!

June 4, 2018

Damn.

I need to find a fellow Landy owner with the skills and equipment then!

June 2, 2018

Ah, that's a bit cack then, as I have the 2 button jobbie.

June 1, 2018

Hi all

I've just bought a Discovery 1 ES 300Tdi and it came with 2 fobs. One works but the other doesn't and it appears the ECU no longer (if it even did) knows about this other key fob. I've searched around and I found what appears to be a guide for reprogramming a fob, but I wanted to check here to see if this is right. The instructions are:

This is the procedure and it'll need two of you to carry it out:

Start with the ignition off, doors unlocked and bonnet alarm switch depressed.
NOTE: Steps 2- 8 must be carried out in 8 seconds
Switch ignition on
Switch ignition off
Lock doors - push the button down on the drivers door.
Unlock doors - pull button up on drivers door.
Release bonnet switch.
Switch ignition ON
Switch ignition OFF
If the alarm is correctly accessed, the horn will sound and the LED on the dash will light.
It's now possible to program two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle's alarm ECU.
This must be carried out within two minutes otherwise you'll have to start again.
Press and hold down the button on first handset until dash LED flashes.
Repeat #10 for the second fob.
The LED on the dash will extinguish if both handsets have been initialised correctly.

Does this look right? If it is, what a complete faff!!

Cheers

May 22, 2018

When I had issues with my 300Tdi years ago I removed the sump and it had a gasket. Tried to get a replacement gasket and couldn't find one anywhere so I just RTV'd it. Same a few years later on my 200Tdi and again I ended up RTV'ing it.

As Snagger said it's probably the gasket compressing and giving the appearance of slack. Just RTV it and if you get a little on the threads as you put the bolts in that will possibly help too.

May 10, 2018

So, after many years without a Discovery I purchased an ES auto the other day. I've got an early 110 that I really like as I've done a lot of work on it over the years (fitted a 200Tdi engine and a Defender R380 gearbox), but there was always something I liked about the Discovery. And now I have both!

Anyway, as I said it's an ES so has a lot of bells and whistles, and most of these make no noise at the moment.

Aircon - Belt missing, and I suspect will need re-gassing
Cruise control - Was told it works off vacuum pipes and some have visibly perished. I'll replace them and see what happens
Electric seats - The base tilt on the drivers side doesn't work although it clicks when you try to adjust it
Heated windscreen - Got a big crack in the corner so I suspect the element is knackered
Auto dimming rear view mirror - The liquid crystals have leaked. Needs a new one I think
N/S/R window - Very slow towards the bottom of the travel
Bonnet pull - Cable has been relocated to somewhere else

I've found a few other disconnected connectors here and there, and I'm sure there is more that doesn't work but I've not really looked over it.

There is what appears to be a performance chip fitted to a 9pin serial type connector under the dashboard, but I have no idea if it works or not. I can't remember the name on the chip but I'll take a picture later.

Any information or advice on this would be greatly received.

January 6, 2017

Yes, as said it's a valve seating tool. Never seen one like that but it looks pretty handy. Stops getting blisters on the palms of you hands (or is that another story altogether?)

December 7, 2016

Does the engine turn over slower than when it's cold as opposed to when it's a warm day? Last year when I was having these issues when the weather is cold I decided to finally wire up my glow plugs and it made no difference at all. My engine had never needed them in the Discovery I pulled it out of and they weren't even wired up in the 110 but I thought as the engine was getting older that it might need them. Again, battery was the culprit and I still don't need the plugs, even in that very cold snap we had earlier this week.

December 2, 2016

If you can see a crack then it's probably goosed but if the head gasket went then it could be that the head isn't flat and just needs skimming. However if you did get your head skimmed and pressure tested and it failed, that will cost money that you could've put towards a good condition second hand head or even a new head.

December 1, 2016

There are various calculators on the web that will give you the metric size but I think you're roughly right. However, the height of these always looked a little small to me. I have some of these in the shed that I took off an old 110 I used to own and then I put them on my old 90. But they always looked a little too small to me, especially on the 110.

November 22, 2016

I had a similar problem very recently on my 200tdi converted 110 and I was convinced it wasn't the battery. So I did all the things you've done already, as well as replacing the starter motor but the 'worse when cold' thing was still a niggle in the back of my mind. I even swapped it out for a known good battery I had in the shed but to no avail.

Cutting a long story short, it was the battery. Seems the known good one in the shed wasn't good either.

November 2, 2016

And....

She passed! No advisories either!

If anyone is interested, this is a link to all the work I've done on the old girl since I've owned her. Well, almost all the work...

October 27, 2016

Check the compression in each of the cylinders first. I'd asy it's unlikely to be the inection pump or the lift pump.

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