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Everything posted by Tetsu0san

  1. Check the engine? In what way? If it's a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi? They're both 200Tdi's and they're both standard. They both have the same module and they both have one button fobs.
  2. I don't think you're right (but i could be wrong). There is a box under the dash which seems to control all of the above, AMR2106. This is what I think is causing all my problems.
  3. Hi all I've got two 200Tdi Discovery's which both share a problem, with one being a lot worse than the other. The central locking is sporadic, sometimes very slow to react (if at all), the electric windows occasionally work and then don't (which is usually tied in with the cntral locking not working), and sometimes the immobiliser just doesn't want to play ball. The alarm (or at least the flashing indicators) will go off all by itself too. I think I'm right in saying that there is one module that controls all these functions. I've bypassed it on one of the Discovery's to get it started and allow me to move it around, but it's not where I want to leave it. If I am correct and it's the one module, what is usually wrong with it? Is it dry joints, fried components, lose wires, or something else? Any information would be greatly recieved. Cheers
  4. Due to the timing chest being different between Discovery and Defender the timing belt and all that is also different. Not sure what is still available regarding all the gear but I bet you can find pulleys and belts if you look hard enough. I watch a channel on YouTube of a bloke in Canada (here) who does a lot of Land Rover stuff. A while ago he was pulling apart injection pumps and mentioned that the pump timing is different between a Defender and a Discovery pump, although either can (and have) been run in either and work fine. I bet there are people who have seen differences between the two but personally I haven't. I don't think it's really a concern to be honest.
  5. If you've got an original 200Tdi in your 110 then the timing case is different so all the geometry of the alternator, PAS pump etc are different. I believe that the FIP is also slightly differently timed internally but swapping one for another shouldn't cause any problems. However, if your 110 already has a Discovery 200Tdi in it from a previous conversion then the two engines you have should be the same (possibly).
  6. I thought it was only the wired injector that was different, with the other three being the same as a manual pump. Isn't the pipework slightly different too as the wired injector is longer?
  7. There's something not right there. You've not changed any of the rockers or the pushrods at all? What about the little caps that go on top of the valve stems, are they still there?
  8. I'd say it's not the best way to have it as all the debris that the intake will pick up wiill just sit on the top of the filter and clog it up quicker.
  9. Well that's put a stop to pretty much all I had to look forward to. Balls.
  10. My two pennies worth is rotate the original pin as far as you can and that'll do it. The EGT gauge is useful I guess but I think it's only really important if you push the engine hard all the time. Normal driving with a bit of a push every now and then doesn't really need a constant exhaust temperature monitoring system. I rotated my 300Tdi pin to the max about 18 months ago and never had a problem. Equally my 200Tdi has had the same done as well as a few other tweaks and this has been like it for 5+ years with no ill effects. Neither have an EGT gauge. You can easily get bogged down with monitoring this and that but ultimately unless you're running full bore all the time I don't see the point.
  11. There are two schools of thought regarding oil/grease and both have their pros and cons, however implying that grease is no good if you want to keep the vehicle for a long time is a bit misleading I'd say. I'm sure some will say that you have to have oil because of the reasons you stated above (which I agree with) but also the state of the swivels, the quality of the seal, the usage of the vehicle etc will all dictate as to how well the seal will seal, and oil has a greater possibily of leaking out than grease if any of these are sub par. Personally never had an issue with grease and I'd use it every time. Horses for courses I guess.
  12. Ah, you mean the swivel ball seal? The big one? I've not seen a metal backed on before so I guess that's what you get on a model I've not pulled apart. All the seals I've seen have been rubber and just slot in being held in place by a metal retainer. I've seen 2 metal retainers being used at the same time on an old 90 I used to have but when I didn the seals I just removed the additional retainer and only used one. Seemed alright and didn't leak. If the new seal fits and sits flush to the outside of the housing so the metal retainer can do it's job then I can't see an issue. To reduce the risk of leakage use the one-shot grease rather than oil in the hub.
  13. Which seal are you talking about? Got a picture?
  14. Yes, I'm positive they're the same.
  15. Apparently they are interchangable after all so I'll be giving that a go. I'll report back if it's not the case.
  16. Yes, but the 300Tdi ABS models have a different set up on the top for the sensor. I wanted to know if these swivels are interchangeable with the railko type swivels on my '84 110.
  17. Morning all I've got an early 110 which has (or at least should have) the railko bush type swivels, and they're pretty rough and could do with being replaced. Is a swivel from a later ABS model (such as a Discovery/Defender) the same? I don't want to replace the swivels with the top and bottom bearing types like the later non-ABS models have, and I could source an early chrome swivel that would fit, but I have two pretty good ABS swivels from my old Discovery that I would like to use instead if possible. Cheers
  18. When I got the two door I also got a five door 200Tdi and a MK1 Hilux from the same seller. All this along with a VW Beetle, my existing Discovery, a Defender 90, and my 110, I've got more than enough to be getting on with.
  19. Oh, don't get me wrong, I'm not in the garage game. I'm just an ejit who for some reason likes getting oily and dirty underneath a Land Rover. The way I see it is that if you've got the space, take the bits that are most likely to be needed by either you or someone else and scrap the rest. There are more people out there like me who would be interested in an engine, a good gearbox, a transfer box as an upgrade to an old 90/110, rear axle convertion (like I said earlier) but don't really want the hassle of buying the whole vehicle themselves, removing the parts twice (once from their vehicle and again from the donor), and then getting a dismantler to collect what's left. Discovery 1's are getting rare on the road, but small parts are easy to come by. However good big bits like engines etc are always desirable to the right person. However, this is the opinion of an ejit.
  20. There's just something about two door (or three door if you count the rear door) models that seem to attract people. They're rarer than the five door version and even though they're probably more impractical they seem to be more likely to be bought and restored rather than broken up and scrapped. I would imagine that in a few years time (if not already) they will start to demand higher money than the five door models. You certainly don't seem to see as many two door interior parts at jumbles compared to the endless seas of five door stuff. As a side note I recently picked up a two door 200Tdi Discovery and I fully intend on getting this up to scratch and replacing my five door 300Tdi with it.
  21. If it's not likely to go on the road again due to being a potentialy massive MOT failure then you kinda have to go from scrap value and work up from there. If you're capable of removing the engine then that's going to be worth a couple of hundred at least and then the carcass about £150ish weighed in. Value of a vehicle is, as you say, dependant on what people will spend but equally if you break the vehicle then all the good parts have value. It just depends on how far you're willing to go. Rear axles for people who have old drum brakes 90's are worth a bit, front axles too if the swivels are good, power steering boxes are usually in demand, the list could go on. But if it's unlikely to go back on the road easily and you don't want the hassle of a major stripdown then I'd take out the engine and gearboxes, remove the axles, take a few other choice bits and store them, and scrap the rest. Unless it's a two door....
  22. Totally agree here. Where do you stop? If you change the big end bearings, rings etc then you might as well rebuild the whole thing. For me, if it's not losing oil and water then just do the clearances and any seals that are leaking. At a push re-seat the valves by removing the head but only if it's obvious that they're leaking. If it's a bit down on power then maybe rotate the boost diaphragm and give it a good service?
  23. It sounds like the injection pump to me as I'm having the exact same issue on my 300Tdi Discovery. I've been running my Discovery on normal diesel and I decided to try some veg oil (as I run 25/75 in my 200Tdi 110 anyway) and ever since then I've had a fuel starvation issue. I've replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the gauze filter in the lift pump (it's a Delphi one), blew the fuel lines out too but I suspect my issue is in the tank or sediment filter. But for you to be sure try and get an engineers stethoscope (or a long screw driver) and see if the sound is coming from the injection pump. I suspect it is.
  24. The old alcohol based stuff was always sweet, and tasted great until you go blind. The OATS stuff just had a very bitter taste. However, if they do add a bitterness to OATS then I've just been unlucky and need to find a better brand. Moonshine doesn't make itself...
  25. That stuff always tastes foul to me, are you sure it was OATS? Either way, make sure your health insurance is up to date, and you've made a will.
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