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Tetsu0san last won the day on December 1 2016

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About Tetsu0san

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  1. Check the engine? In what way? If it's a 200Tdi or a 300Tdi? They're both 200Tdi's and they're both standard. They both have the same module and they both have one button fobs.
  2. I don't think you're right (but i could be wrong). There is a box under the dash which seems to control all of the above, AMR2106. This is what I think is causing all my problems.
  3. Hi all I've got two 200Tdi Discovery's which both share a problem, with one being a lot worse than the other. The central locking is sporadic, sometimes very slow to react (if at all), the electric windows occasionally work and then don't (which is usually tied in with the cntral locking not working), and sometimes the immobiliser just doesn't want to play ball. The alarm (or at least the flashing indicators) will go off all by itself too. I think I'm right in saying that there is one module that controls all these functions. I've bypassed it on one of the Discovery's to get it started and allow me to move it around, but it's not where I want to leave it. If I am correct and it's the one module, what is usually wrong with it? Is it dry joints, fried components, lose wires, or something else? Any information would be greatly recieved. Cheers
  4. Due to the timing chest being different between Discovery and Defender the timing belt and all that is also different. Not sure what is still available regarding all the gear but I bet you can find pulleys and belts if you look hard enough. I watch a channel on YouTube of a bloke in Canada (here) who does a lot of Land Rover stuff. A while ago he was pulling apart injection pumps and mentioned that the pump timing is different between a Defender and a Discovery pump, although either can (and have) been run in either and work fine. I bet there are people who have seen differences between the two but personally I haven't. I don't think it's really a concern to be honest.
  5. If you've got an original 200Tdi in your 110 then the timing case is different so all the geometry of the alternator, PAS pump etc are different. I believe that the FIP is also slightly differently timed internally but swapping one for another shouldn't cause any problems. However, if your 110 already has a Discovery 200Tdi in it from a previous conversion then the two engines you have should be the same (possibly).
  6. I thought it was only the wired injector that was different, with the other three being the same as a manual pump. Isn't the pipework slightly different too as the wired injector is longer?
  7. There's something not right there. You've not changed any of the rockers or the pushrods at all? What about the little caps that go on top of the valve stems, are they still there?
  8. I'd say it's not the best way to have it as all the debris that the intake will pick up wiill just sit on the top of the filter and clog it up quicker.
  9. Well that's put a stop to pretty much all I had to look forward to. Balls.
  10. My two pennies worth is rotate the original pin as far as you can and that'll do it. The EGT gauge is useful I guess but I think it's only really important if you push the engine hard all the time. Normal driving with a bit of a push every now and then doesn't really need a constant exhaust temperature monitoring system. I rotated my 300Tdi pin to the max about 18 months ago and never had a problem. Equally my 200Tdi has had the same done as well as a few other tweaks and this has been like it for 5+ years with no ill effects. Neither have an EGT gauge. You can easily get bogged down with monitoring this and that but ultimately unless you're running full bore all the time I don't see the point.
  11. There are two schools of thought regarding oil/grease and both have their pros and cons, however implying that grease is no good if you want to keep the vehicle for a long time is a bit misleading I'd say. I'm sure some will say that you have to have oil because of the reasons you stated above (which I agree with) but also the state of the swivels, the quality of the seal, the usage of the vehicle etc will all dictate as to how well the seal will seal, and oil has a greater possibily of leaking out than grease if any of these are sub par. Personally never had an issue with grease and I'd use it every time. Horses for courses I guess.
  12. Ah, you mean the swivel ball seal? The big one? I've not seen a metal backed on before so I guess that's what you get on a model I've not pulled apart. All the seals I've seen have been rubber and just slot in being held in place by a metal retainer. I've seen 2 metal retainers being used at the same time on an old 90 I used to have but when I didn the seals I just removed the additional retainer and only used one. Seemed alright and didn't leak. If the new seal fits and sits flush to the outside of the housing so the metal retainer can do it's job then I can't see an issue. To reduce the risk of leakage use the one-shot grease rather than oil in the hub.
  13. Which seal are you talking about? Got a picture?
  14. Yes, I'm positive they're the same.
  15. Apparently they are interchangable after all so I'll be giving that a go. I'll report back if it's not the case.
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