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Tetsu0san last won the day on December 1 2016

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About Tetsu0san

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  1. I thought it was only the wired injector that was different, with the other three being the same as a manual pump. Isn't the pipework slightly different too as the wired injector is longer?
  2. There's something not right there. You've not changed any of the rockers or the pushrods at all? What about the little caps that go on top of the valve stems, are they still there?
  3. I'd say it's not the best way to have it as all the debris that the intake will pick up wiill just sit on the top of the filter and clog it up quicker.
  4. Well that's put a stop to pretty much all I had to look forward to. Balls.
  5. My two pennies worth is rotate the original pin as far as you can and that'll do it. The EGT gauge is useful I guess but I think it's only really important if you push the engine hard all the time. Normal driving with a bit of a push every now and then doesn't really need a constant exhaust temperature monitoring system. I rotated my 300Tdi pin to the max about 18 months ago and never had a problem. Equally my 200Tdi has had the same done as well as a few other tweaks and this has been like it for 5+ years with no ill effects. Neither have an EGT gauge. You can easily get bogged down with monitoring this and that but ultimately unless you're running full bore all the time I don't see the point.
  6. There are two schools of thought regarding oil/grease and both have their pros and cons, however implying that grease is no good if you want to keep the vehicle for a long time is a bit misleading I'd say. I'm sure some will say that you have to have oil because of the reasons you stated above (which I agree with) but also the state of the swivels, the quality of the seal, the usage of the vehicle etc will all dictate as to how well the seal will seal, and oil has a greater possibily of leaking out than grease if any of these are sub par. Personally never had an issue with grease and I'd use it every time. Horses for courses I guess.
  7. Ah, you mean the swivel ball seal? The big one? I've not seen a metal backed on before so I guess that's what you get on a model I've not pulled apart. All the seals I've seen have been rubber and just slot in being held in place by a metal retainer. I've seen 2 metal retainers being used at the same time on an old 90 I used to have but when I didn the seals I just removed the additional retainer and only used one. Seemed alright and didn't leak. If the new seal fits and sits flush to the outside of the housing so the metal retainer can do it's job then I can't see an issue. To reduce the risk of leakage use the one-shot grease rather than oil in the hub.
  8. Which seal are you talking about? Got a picture?
  9. Yes, I'm positive they're the same.
  10. Apparently they are interchangable after all so I'll be giving that a go. I'll report back if it's not the case.
  11. Yes, but the 300Tdi ABS models have a different set up on the top for the sensor. I wanted to know if these swivels are interchangeable with the railko type swivels on my '84 110.
  12. Morning all I've got an early 110 which has (or at least should have) the railko bush type swivels, and they're pretty rough and could do with being replaced. Is a swivel from a later ABS model (such as a Discovery/Defender) the same? I don't want to replace the swivels with the top and bottom bearing types like the later non-ABS models have, and I could source an early chrome swivel that would fit, but I have two pretty good ABS swivels from my old Discovery that I would like to use instead if possible. Cheers
  13. When I got the two door I also got a five door 200Tdi and a MK1 Hilux from the same seller. All this along with a VW Beetle, my existing Discovery, a Defender 90, and my 110, I've got more than enough to be getting on with.
  14. Oh, don't get me wrong, I'm not in the garage game. I'm just an ejit who for some reason likes getting oily and dirty underneath a Land Rover. The way I see it is that if you've got the space, take the bits that are most likely to be needed by either you or someone else and scrap the rest. There are more people out there like me who would be interested in an engine, a good gearbox, a transfer box as an upgrade to an old 90/110, rear axle convertion (like I said earlier) but don't really want the hassle of buying the whole vehicle themselves, removing the parts twice (once from their vehicle and again from the donor), and then getting a dismantler to collect what's left. Discovery 1's are getting rare on the road, but small parts are easy to come by. However good big bits like engines etc are always desirable to the right person. However, this is the opinion of an ejit.
  15. There's just something about two door (or three door if you count the rear door) models that seem to attract people. They're rarer than the five door version and even though they're probably more impractical they seem to be more likely to be bought and restored rather than broken up and scrapped. I would imagine that in a few years time (if not already) they will start to demand higher money than the five door models. You certainly don't seem to see as many two door interior parts at jumbles compared to the endless seas of five door stuff. As a side note I recently picked up a two door 200Tdi Discovery and I fully intend on getting this up to scratch and replacing my five door 300Tdi with it.
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