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Tetsu0san

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Tetsu0san last won the day on December 1 2016

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  1. Unfortunately air in the coolant system shouts head gasket type issues to me. Just because someone's done some work on the head and fitted a genuine head gasket (whatever that actually means) it doesn't mean that combusion gasses are not leaking into the coolant system somewhere. Why did you have head work done before? The leaking coolant pipes you mentioned, did they cause the engine to overheat and was this the reason for the head work?
  2. On a related note though, sounds like you might have some pressure in the coolant system that's pushing it out. Might be worth some investigation...
  3. I've got an '84 and there is a pipe that directs the coolant down the inner wing.
  4. Sorry, me again. Is it 'safe' to remove it as is or should I remove the battery or do something else? Don't really want to end up with an error that needs to be cleared with hardware that I don't have. Cheers
  5. To be honest the seats that are in there are actually in good condition, but they're not what she wants....
  6. That sounds like an excellent place to start. I'll have a look at that later. Cheers
  7. Hi all I know the debate for having a nicer seat in a Defender has been going on and on (and on), but one thing has always troubled me about it. Because on early Defenders the battery is under the passenger seat (and on an early 110 there is storage under the drivers seat) what do people do when they replace the stock seats with something nicer? Do you make a frame that allows the base to be removable or do you just not bother and unbolt the seat when you need access to these areas? As some background the girlfriend wants nicer seats in the 90 (and is even prepared to pay for them) but I'm torn because I know I'm going to need to get to the battery at some point and currently that's easy. Cheers
  8. Hi all I have a late P38 diesel and the air suspension is playing up a bit. When it's driving and the engine started it works OK, but when you park it up the suspension will drop overnight. Well, when I say overnight it varies, sometimes it will do it over one night, other times it will hold up for days (it only gets driven once or twice a week). In its history it's had a couple of air bags changed as well as height sensors, but obviously that doesn't really meany anything. What are your thoughts? I don't really want to put it on springs as I think the air suspension is great, and as I am (unfortunately) going to have to sell it soon I'd like the suspension to work. Cheers
  9. I'm such a thwack. The image didn't show yesterday and the link didn't open. Works firewall rules....
  10. Is this a scam or an attempt to hack an account?
  11. It sounds to me that you really need to work out if you actually have a problem with high idle or if you're just chasing a problem that doesn't exist. However, it's not uncommon for the internals of an injection pump to stick due to lack of use, but the only time that's happened to me was on a 90 I bought years ago that had been offroaded and dunked in water, driven home and parked up for 2 years. There was rust inside the injection pump as I could see rust on the boost pin and on half of the diaphragm disc, and although it idle'd fine it made the engine sluggish to rev some of the time but then clear and run fine other times. As a complete opposite to this I currently own a 200Tdi Discovery that hadn't been started in over 10 years and is absolutely fine.
  12. In my experience a noisy injection pump was caused by fuel starvation and the pump having to work harder than normal to get the fuel it needs. One I had on my first 300Tdi I had a failed lift pump and the injection pump sounded like a chicken clucking for some reason! Recently I had a similar issue and although I changed the lift pump that too was faulty. I removed the top of it (it was a Delphi pump) and I could see one of the valves just floating around in the top so I replaced that and all was good again. You've changed the lift pump? What make did you replace it with, and do you know that the new one is actually working? Have you blown the fuel lines back to the tank to make sure they're not blocked? Maybe take the pickup out of the tank too and make sure you've not got loads of crud in the tank. You may well have a sedimenter under the rear of the chassis too, so perhaps check to make sure that's not full up with rubbish. Also, are you sure it's the injeciton pump and not something else? The vacuum pumps can tick and rattle and this can sound like it's coming from the injection pump area.
  13. The chart they use in a Haynes is pretty much on every wiring page as far as I can see. I just didn't think they'd use the same legend as the official Land Rover document. Again my fault for not looking, but being in the line of work I am in you never take anything like this as a given.
  14. I get all that, but without a legend to tie the letters to a colour the diagram is not very helpful. Fortunately the colour chart you've just kindly provided is what I was missing. If the colour codes are the same as the Haynes then that's my fault for not putting two and two together, but I'd rather use the chart for the actual diagram rather than making a guess based on what it could be from another diagram.
  15. There are letters, but what colours do the letters represent? What is N? What is K?
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