Jump to content

Tetsu0san

Settled In
  • Posts

    757
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Tetsu0san last won the day on December 1 2016

Tetsu0san had the most liked content!

Reputation

31 Excellent

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    tetsuo_usagi@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oxfordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

1,511 profile views
  1. @westernthanks for that. I kinda thought that might be the case, but it did look like an earth problem at first.
  2. Hi all So I have a really dumb question. On a P reg 300Tdi 90, if I turn on the sidelights without the ignition I get both of the sidelights. This is the same as my much older B reg 110. However, if I then turn on the ignition I get the headlights coming on, however they're dim, as if they are acting like sidelights. Is this correct or do I have an earth problem somewhere? As a background I have owned this 90 for about 5 years, bought as a project, and after a lot of welding, repairing, and rebuilding it's ready for MOT but as I've never owned one this 'new' before this feature has got me a little confused. Cheers.
  3. If he's using an R380 from a Discovery then the engine will not be in the original position. The engine will be moved further forward due to the longer bellhousing, but depending on what he does with the gearbox this will dictate how far forward the engine will be. Standard 300Tdi crossmember position (with cutting/replacing the seat box, new props etc) or slightly further back.
  4. I wrote a massive long reply to this last night, but it seems to have disappeared! Anyway, I know I deliberated for a long time about whether I should leave the gearbox where it is or move evertying forward to the 300Tdi position, and although I did have to modify the seatbox I'm glad I did make this choice. Yes it was a bigger job, but everything else just slotted into place. I have to agree with @Chicken Drumstick to a degree in saying that you'll not really gain anything doing this, apart from the ability to get parts easier. But if you do do this and you're going to leave the gearbox in the original place then you will lose the abaility to buy a lof ot of the shelf parts as nothing will be standard, mostly at the front of the engine, and you may have to shorten part of the exhaust too. If you're OK at fabricating then it's probably not an issue.
  5. The outriggers? Mine are again quite a long way out, but as these are slotted I'm not too bothered. My issue is that as I'm going to be removing the chassis from more or less the three bolt holes for the shock mounts on the rear I need to get as much right as I can before I start chopping. So far the chassis doesn't look twisted at all, and with two rails put along the chassis to create 'B' it all looks pretty good, except for the crossmember tub mounts.
  6. Yeah, I think putting patch on top of patch etc hasn't helped on this chassis. It's a bit of a mess.... But I take it from your comments that I am right in thinking that the holes are meant to line up with that datum.
  7. Hi all I'm currently replacing the rear quarter on my 90 chassis and I have a question about alignment. If I read the diagram in the repair manual correctly there is a datum that runs from the front of the chassis to the rear, passing over the high parts (labled 'B' on the attached immage). It difficult to see but does this datum line up with the holes on the upstand tub mounts on the rear crossmember? For my untrained eye it would appear so, but on my chassis these holes are 10+mm down on one side and 20+mm down on the other. It's been welded quite a bit in that area, hence chopping it all off and replacing it with nice new metal, but if I am reading the diagram correctly and these holes are meant to be ligned up then I didn't expect it to be so far out. Cheers
  8. Thanks for that. I'll have a look and see what I can see.
  9. Hi all Bit of a weird title, but I'm looking for a bit of advice. I drive my P38 every day to work and it's always been reliable. Always starts, always stops, and always gets me to and from work. Anyway, I've had a message on the dash about low battery in the fob, but the central locking always works. The message went away after a few days and then it started refusing to lock and unlock on the fob, so I replaced the batteries. All was good, until the other day. Drove to work, got some fuel, parked up, and did a day of joyful employment. Came out at the end of the day to go home and couldn't unlock the car with the fob. Put in the key and unlocked it but it only unlocked the driver's door. Then tried to start it, engine disabled. Wanted me to press the fob, but nothing happened. So in a nutshell the central locking wasn't working, engine was disabled, so I had to get a lift home. I did check all the fuses and they were OK. I pulled the trim out and checked the connector in the footwell (the white one with the pins that corrode) and that was OK too. The tailgate was unlocked so I could open that, and everything else seemed to work, but the car was going nowhere. So I manually locked all the doors and went home. Cut to the next day, I got a beaver tail lorry expecting to have to drag it up on the back, but I thought I'd try the fob. And it worked. Got in, turned the key, and it started no problems. I drive it home, all OK. The only thing that was different was that there was (and still is) a high pitched sound from the speakers when the radio is on. Turn off the radio and the noise goes away. So basically I'm a bit stumped here. What could all this be? I had already disabled the immobiliser using a Nanocom so there should be no need for the EKA code, and apart from the noise in the speakers, everything seems alright now, but I am worried to drive it in case it does it again. A long read I know, but the more info I can give the more it should help!
  10. So I bought a switch pack from a chap on Facebook (yeah, I know) but he came through and this has fixed the problem. The first replacement I bought must have been faulty too.
  11. I'm still looking for a switchpack to borrow if possible. I spoke to a BeCM expert who assured me that it's really really unlikely to be the BeCM so I should look for a working switchpack. So here I am (again)! Or I'd be willing to pay for a working one. Cheers
  12. Yeah, that's why I'm wondering if it's the BeCM as it just stopped. No iffy switches, just working then nothing.
  13. Thanks for that. I scanned through the P38 manual that I have and it didn't have a wiring diagram, but since seeing your post I've managed to download one. I'll have a go at the earth and check all the wires from the switch back to the BeCM. Will be back shortly!
  14. Hi all. I have a P38 and suddenly the windows and mirror switches stopped working. I plugged in the Nanocom and I can control the windows, sunroof, mirrors etc through the menus but not by the switches. I took the switch pack apart and fixed a couple of suspicious looking solder joints but still no joy. I then managed to pick up a second hand switch pack but that doesn't seem to work either. At this point I don't know if I'm just messing around with two faulty switch packs, have an issue with wiring, or a fault in the BCEM. Is there anyone in the Oxfordshire area with a known working switch pack that I could try in mine (and maybe buy if it works), or anyone who would let me plug my switch packs into their P38 to see if either work? Or does anyone have any other ideas that I could try? Cheers!
  15. I had a really good experience with an eBay seller recently too, and I contacted them through eBay to let them know. They were genuinely pleased to receive positive feedback. It's good to know that there are some good places still around! Perhaps there should be some kind of sticky post somewhere for people to share positive experiences with suppliers and sellers etc. It would certainly make a change from the usual S**tpart bashing....
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy