Bullyjohn

Try running from a separate container near the engine . Feed direct into the engine feed pipe with the container raised up so you have some pressure on the entry. This will help you confirm its air leaking into the fuel lines before you do anything else.... Did you change your fuel filter - does it need bleeding ..? I am not familiar with the fuel lines and the connectors - I assume you can't tighten them with a jubilee clip or something to prove the hypothesis? Good luck !!

Can't remember where I got the socket set - Halfords - many years ago maybe? It had takena lot of abuse and I think its a testament to the power ( torque) the starter can exert !.. But need a new breaker bar/ T bar now sadly...

I have finally got the plug out. I had top drill through to loosen it. It does appear that someone had done this previously and left a figure of 8 shaped hole. So when I tried to undo the pug - which had virtually no head on it at all . It didn't want to rotate in the hole properly anyay. So now with a view of the flywheel I can see a slot which lines up in the middle of the hole. Just have to improvise something to lock it with. Then I have to find a way to plug the hole up afterwards.. I am tempted to try to drill and tap it oversize to allow a BSP plug of some sort to go in place of the std one.. I will choose something thats going to be easy to get out again !! Thanks for the advise PS : this happened when I used the starter flick method to loosen the crank pulley bolt (oops)

Help, I am stuck on trying to get the flywheel timing plug out of the casing. I think someone must have cross threaded it and rounded of the head. i assume its a normal thread - clockwise to tighten /anticlock to undo? My only option seems to be to drill it out and use an extractor to remove it... Anyone had similar difficulties. I am part way through a cam belt change and found this isseu - so I can't check the TDC cyl 1 timing properly... Any suggestions as to how to remove the plug !?

Should be, the new rear qtr chassis is continuous MIG welded to the old chassis rails - no gaps... honest !

picture at last - sorry for the delay in posting.. lots of other stuff has occupied my spare time.. You can see my nw welds along the top/bottom and rhs of the damper mount. And below is the inside face showing the bolts for the damper monut bracket. - Due to the probelms the welds on the inside were close to the bolt holes... Lastly a shot of the rear crossmember

Finally got it on - I will post pics I promise. I had to cut the flaps a little further back into the new part ( it appears to have been approx 3/4 inch too long from shock mount holes to the rear cross member). This was to allow it to go on over the old chassis rails. Then cut the middle and rhs of-centre rear crossmember brackets off and re-weld them in the correct place to match up with the tub. Done all that and then fitted it on and its pretty much there - welded all the seams on max settings with the Mig - lots of amps ! Just have to paint over the welds and waxoyl it, in and out, them re-assemble the suspension etc... Oh - and hope I didn't melt the wiring in the chassis leg ! Photos to come.. would have been easy if it had all lined up - but I doubt any of these ever do exactly. MIB were apologetic so far but thats it.... I was hoping they would offer some cash back for the time it cost me...

So, spent most of saturday trying to fit it up and then weld it on. Issues so far : Having man handled it into place( passed wiring through etc) and slid the new bit over the old rails - found it was about a half to 3/4 inch too long - from where the shock mounts bolts are to the rear of the tub mounts on the top of the rear cross member.. Bang goes the idea that it would just go straight on ! So I resolved to push it on a bit further and then re-cut the suspension mount bolt holes.. I have made up a template so I know where the bolt holes have to be re-drilled. Next issue having done all that and got it back up - I found the rear mounts don't all line up to the rear tub monuting points. The middle mount is out about a 1/8 inch ( the right of centre) and the middle rhs mount is an 1/8 inch out in the other direction ( to the left). Not enough give to get it all to line up - even if I file up the brackets. Decided to drop it alll down again and reposition the monuting brackets .. So ran out of time.. Next job: cut of the mounts - reposition them and re-weld them on in the correct place... Could have been really easy but for these two dimensional errors..! Pic's to follow

I appear to have something like a piece of mudflap material closing this area off too. As you saw on the 200 CSW - its held on with self tappers into the inner wheel arch and just hangs down to close off the gap to the rear of the wheel .. I will see if I can get some pictures - looks genuine to me ..

New : pic's of the new rear qtr chassis - difficult as its so large .. but here goes: The new part attaches at the shock mounting points - you line it up with the bolt holes and bolts it in place with shock mounting bolts so you can get it aligned - then weld away .. Thats the theory anyway.. I will post when I have had a go afetr next weekend..

I ordered A defender rear qtr chassis from MIB ( not Men in black) components. I will post some pics when I get another opportunity. The webs where the chassis rail meet the rear member were all completely rusted - flakey steel - there was really not much to weld to - also really difficult to get the grinder in there to clean up what was left. Probably easier to see now its cut off. I had patched all along the rear chassis legs and there are patches over patches - so the rear most webs were the last straw really. Anyway I am not going to stick it back on now !

Hello all: So far I have asked a few questions - so I thought it was about time I did something to contribute. I have a 90 with a failing rear cross member and rear chassis rails. I have patched it through the last few MOT's. This year looking it over in advance of MOT time revealed a big problem. The rear of the chassis rails has rotted through where it joins the rear Cross member - on both rails!. I did see if I stood a chance of patching it again - however it would have been the height of bodgery to do so..! I looked at the usual 'rear cross member with extensions' route and decided they didn't have enough meat to be sure I would have clean strong metal to weld to. So I have lashed out on a rear quarter Chassis. The item in question came approx a week after I ordered it - made for me specifcally in 3mm plate. So far I have: removed wheels, springs, exhaust rear section, Cut off the old chassis rear section - after making sure I didn't cut off too much ! Picture of the old rear chassis section, & webs that had rotted Next steps - paint /protect new chassis section - clean up old chassis rails - weld up new part to existing rails - refit all left over parts.. Piece of cake ( I will let you know ) - working on weekends only so far..

sorry about the tpyo's!

It all depends which aspect of performance you are trying to improve. - pickup from low speed is also dependant on hving a good low intake depression ( compressor intake ducting and air filter) - intercooler won't do much here as your compressor isn't doing much at lower rpm or from pullaway to approx 1500rpm ish..- snorkels probably make this worse I would guess given the long duct length and tortuous route the air has to take.Regards fitting two I/C's I would suggest two in parrallel The principle benefit will be at engine higher rpm and load (torque) Should achieve slightly cooler air with lower boost side pressure loss - better boost rise rate and slight more boost.Two in series will give a worse pressure drop and reduce any cooling benefit you get with this layout.The results you get will depend on how good the installation of the ducting - good consistant ducting diameter and few beds as possible. Y piece to join flows etc and must in the air flow not hidden behind metal work...One large one will be easier to get a result with for that reason principally...Hoepfully that helps?

Hi Fred, try looking at this site - its one I seen linked to elsewhere in the forum http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/nonmetallic.html looks like there are two /three different blues Arles 90-97 and then Royal blue which is an SVO And Blue lord which is SVO I imagine these are specials - so its probably Arles Blue.. Try this guy for paint - I have got some Shire blue I have used to re-spray some of my Landy - works a treat.. http://www.paintman.co.uk/paint-colour-chart-series-2.html hope that helps