Lewis
-
Posts
4,389 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
20
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Lewis
-
-
I think team idris’ series 1 is 4x2, and I think he mentioned someone else’s he knew who also had a 4x2. Perhaps it would be worth messaging him for some info?
-
Lots of electronics doesn’t have to mean it’s unreliable or hard to fix, but with JLR it invariably does.
Toyota Land Cruisers in their various guides also feature a lot of electronics, but they just don’t go wrong. My client has circa 570 Land cruisers and 30 D4’s. At present 7 D4’s are VOR, 2 Land cruisers are VOR (both were involved in RTAs)
The JLR reliability is atrocious, that alone would put me off a purchase
-
9 hours ago, Diesel_90 said:
Thanks guys. Does anyone know if there is a reduced wiring loom available or any information on what is not needed on the disco loom.
Thanks
Have a search on the 4x4 winch challenges Facebook group, quite a few folks have fitted td5’s with the disco loom stripped back to the bare essentials
-
I’m not sure how unique that chassis really is; Protection and Performance used to market that product
-
60mm track width makes no difference on an offroader, I have run this for years. If anything it’s an improvement, I found It makes it easier to climb out of ruts
-
Why not just leave the rear axle standard track width? I can’t see what you’d gain by widening it
Lots of standard vehicles run a different track width between front and rear axles. Land Cruiser springs to mind. I ran spacers on the front only for years, as does a mate, you couldn’t even tell by looking
-
Good work, I’m looking forward to seeing how this comes out.
Hardox might not be the best choice of material for brake discs; OEM discs are extremely soft and easy to machine, hardox would probably give you some unexpected braking characteristics
-
1
-
-
Or you could use anti-luce fasteners
-
1
-
-
Oh, and as promised, the front runner offering:
-
6mm will be massive overkill. Got any 2mm?
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, ianmayco68 said:
That’s bob on Lewis cheers did you buy it from there website or somewhere local as I only live in Milwich ?
cheers Ian
I work in the trade so it came direct from sortimo for a build years ago
10 minutes ago, landroversforever said:I must say, I wouldn’t want anything stretchy for holding something like a Jerry can in. I’d want something like the cam buckle or ratchet straps.
That Sortimo stuff is fairly strong, but I couldn’t say whether it would manage 20kg (full Jerry can)
For the price of the bought Jerry can holders available it’s probably not worth making your own anyway.
I just ordered the Front Runner twin Jerry can holder for a project at work, we couldn’t make something for how little these cost. When it arrives I’ll post up some images
-
If you like rubber
then this strap from sortimo is really nice gear. I’ve used it for loads of things, just mount with a p-clip for the fixed end and use the supplied hook for the free end. It’s stretchy so it fits anything you want and you cut it with a sharp blade if required. They do the strap in big rolls and the hooks in bags of 50 or so
-
Another complete engine g/box t/box loom cooling pack hoses ecu for sale local to me for £810 the lot
-
1 minute ago, Scotts90 said:
It's a 110 rear section
You sure? Doesn’t look much like any 110 I’ve seen
-
1
-
-
There is a 10P TD5 engine only on the awdc Facebook page for £250. Must be worth £500 with the defender g/box.
I think anywhere near £1500 is a bit strong, especially to a mate, you’d have your choice of D2’s for a grand, which obviously gives loom, cooling pack, etc etc plus the axles to sell and rest of the car to weigh in
Edited to add: I bought a 1500mile engine and box in 2007(ish) with tank, loom, cooling pack etc for £1500
-
The vent operating mechanism is different between series and defender, and between earlier defender and td5. I seem to recall series 2a is different to series 3 maybe?
Could these mechanism differences make the vent flap change? Bolt positions perhaps
If you’re just trying to get hold of some I have a pair from a 300tdi era defender somewhere you can have gratis
-
I keep hearing that 200tdi’s are hard to buy, but there’s loads of crusty discos knocking around still, whether the engines are good or not is another matter though. Any Land Rover tdi is old now, as are V8’s, but it doesn’t seem to make them any less reliable
-
I had to ring DVSA (was VOSA) recently regarding IVA for a project at work. They tried their best to be helpful but were unable to offer any clarity over and above what was published in existing manuals. I wouldn’t bother again
-
For wheels could you get a Defender from your local JLR Dealership on a day test drive and borrow the wheels from it?
its a bit dishonest but it would work
-
There is an alternative I’ve seen on eBay before, but it’s a vile looking cut and shut job
If I ever run out of other jobs to do on my 90 I’d like to remake the downpipe out of stainless, but only because I can
-
To provide a little balance to snaggers experience above, I only bought the downpipe (the part they make), and the service was unremarkable - the part arrived on time, nothing more nothing less
-
Your MOT tester is mistaken; Class 4 has no upper weight restrictions for private passengers vehicles. You could de-plate a 7.5tonne truck and call it a car and it would become class 4 (obviously physical size restrictions of the MOT lane would likely render this a moot point, I merely include this as an example)
Details are in the testers manual, first page, link below
https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4i00000401.htm
More detail in the testing guide
Class 7 is only for goods vehicles, which surely an Ibex is not?
-
Mike do you mean Steve Parker, not Gwyn Lewis for the downpipe?
I have the mild steel Steve Parker version but I would recommend spending the extra for the stainless version as mine is going rusty already, after 2years ish
-
^^ This ^^
Definitely plate it at 3500kg gvw
then this strap from sortimo is really nice gear. I’ve used it for loads of things, just mount with a p-clip for the fixed end and use the supplied hook for the free end. It’s stretchy so it fits anything you want and you cut it with a sharp blade if required. They do the strap in big rolls and the hooks in bags of 50 or so
Two or Four post lift
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
For that kind of work @reb78 I would look at getting a jacking beam/pit jack, or probably cheaper - a pair of tall axle stands. I have always found a stand or two to be very useful positioned beneath a vehicle and then ramp lowered accordingly