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Everything posted by Lewis

  1. For that kind of work @reb78 I would look at getting a jacking beam/pit jack, or probably cheaper - a pair of tall axle stands. I have always found a stand or two to be very useful positioned beneath a vehicle and then ramp lowered accordingly
  2. Lewis

    Series 1 4x2

    I think team idris’ series 1 is 4x2, and I think he mentioned someone else’s he knew who also had a 4x2. Perhaps it would be worth messaging him for some info?
  3. Lots of electronics doesn’t have to mean it’s unreliable or hard to fix, but with JLR it invariably does. Toyota Land Cruisers in their various guides also feature a lot of electronics, but they just don’t go wrong. My client has circa 570 Land cruisers and 30 D4’s. At present 7 D4’s are VOR, 2 Land cruisers are VOR (both were involved in RTAs) The JLR reliability is atrocious, that alone would put me off a purchase
  4. Have a search on the 4x4 winch challenges Facebook group, quite a few folks have fitted td5’s with the disco loom stripped back to the bare essentials
  5. I’m not sure how unique that chassis really is; Protection and Performance used to market that product
  6. 60mm track width makes no difference on an offroader, I have run this for years. If anything it’s an improvement, I found It makes it easier to climb out of ruts
  7. Why not just leave the rear axle standard track width? I can’t see what you’d gain by widening it Lots of standard vehicles run a different track width between front and rear axles. Land Cruiser springs to mind. I ran spacers on the front only for years, as does a mate, you couldn’t even tell by looking
  8. Good work, I’m looking forward to seeing how this comes out. Hardox might not be the best choice of material for brake discs; OEM discs are extremely soft and easy to machine, hardox would probably give you some unexpected braking characteristics
  9. Or you could use anti-luce fasteners
  10. Oh, and as promised, the front runner offering:
  11. 6mm will be massive overkill. Got any 2mm?
  12. I work in the trade so it came direct from sortimo for a build years ago That Sortimo stuff is fairly strong, but I couldn’t say whether it would manage 20kg (full Jerry can) For the price of the bought Jerry can holders available it’s probably not worth making your own anyway. I just ordered the Front Runner twin Jerry can holder for a project at work, we couldn’t make something for how little these cost. When it arrives I’ll post up some images
  13. If you like rubber then this strap from sortimo is really nice gear. I’ve used it for loads of things, just mount with a p-clip for the fixed end and use the supplied hook for the free end. It’s stretchy so it fits anything you want and you cut it with a sharp blade if required. They do the strap in big rolls and the hooks in bags of 50 or so https://www.sortimo.co.uk/shop/en_UK/Load-Securing/Accessories-Load-Securing/Other-accessories-load-securing/Bungee-strap-set-2-m-/p/000000000080778925
  14. Another complete engine g/box t/box loom cooling pack hoses ecu for sale local to me for £810 the lot
  15. You sure? Doesn’t look much like any 110 I’ve seen
  16. There is a 10P TD5 engine only on the awdc Facebook page for £250. Must be worth £500 with the defender g/box. I think anywhere near £1500 is a bit strong, especially to a mate, you’d have your choice of D2’s for a grand, which obviously gives loom, cooling pack, etc etc plus the axles to sell and rest of the car to weigh in Edited to add: I bought a 1500mile engine and box in 2007(ish) with tank, loom, cooling pack etc for £1500
  17. The vent operating mechanism is different between series and defender, and between earlier defender and td5. I seem to recall series 2a is different to series 3 maybe? Could these mechanism differences make the vent flap change? Bolt positions perhaps If you’re just trying to get hold of some I have a pair from a 300tdi era defender somewhere you can have gratis
  18. I keep hearing that 200tdi’s are hard to buy, but there’s loads of crusty discos knocking around still, whether the engines are good or not is another matter though. Any Land Rover tdi is old now, as are V8’s, but it doesn’t seem to make them any less reliable
  19. I had to ring DVSA (was VOSA) recently regarding IVA for a project at work. They tried their best to be helpful but were unable to offer any clarity over and above what was published in existing manuals. I wouldn’t bother again
  20. For wheels could you get a Defender from your local JLR Dealership on a day test drive and borrow the wheels from it? its a bit dishonest but it would work
  21. There is an alternative I’ve seen on eBay before, but it’s a vile looking cut and shut job If I ever run out of other jobs to do on my 90 I’d like to remake the downpipe out of stainless, but only because I can
  22. To provide a little balance to snaggers experience above, I only bought the downpipe (the part they make), and the service was unremarkable - the part arrived on time, nothing more nothing less
  23. Your MOT tester is mistaken; Class 4 has no upper weight restrictions for private passengers vehicles. You could de-plate a 7.5tonne truck and call it a car and it would become class 4 (obviously physical size restrictions of the MOT lane would likely render this a moot point, I merely include this as an example) Details are in the testers manual, first page, link below https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/m4i00000401.htm More detail in the testing guide Class 7 is only for goods vehicles, which surely an Ibex is not?
  24. Mike do you mean Steve Parker, not Gwyn Lewis for the downpipe? I have the mild steel Steve Parker version but I would recommend spending the extra for the stainless version as mine is going rusty already, after 2years ish
  25. ^^ This ^^ Definitely plate it at 3500kg gvw
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