royaub

Hi western Do you now how long they are ? Thanks Roy

Hi all I've recently had to have the rear crossmember replaced and now I want to put my original adjustable towbar back on (the bolts were completely rotted) so I am now missing the two large top bolts that go through the towbar and the crossmember.Can anyone tell me what size they are? Also can anybody tell me what the plate at the back with the two welded nuts on is and where to get it from? Any help is much appreciated Thanks Roy

Hi hitower yours looks like the same winch as mine . This is what mine looks like I put it on my self hope this helps roy

Thanks western i will look in to it

Hi western thanks for that. Two more questions for you, if you don't mind: 1. You say remove the Boge strut, is that the whole thing? You also said replace the old springs; as I'm not an off roader can you recommend some suitable springs that won't break the bank as the MOT that I've just had has already cost me £700 2. The A frame bushes don't look very good and the A frame ball joint has a split in the rubber so I would like to do them both; is that something I can do myself? I'm no great mechanic but I have been able to replace all the other ball joints,front swivel housing and hubs etc Does the A frame ball joint need any special tools that you know of? (I know, I know that's more than two questions ) ps any part numbers would be great.

Hi all My levelling unit isn't looking too good and after investigation I have found that they are very expensive. It might sound a silly question but I think that I have read somewhere that you can take these off and not replace them; can anyone tell me if this is correct? Also the bushes on the A frame don't look very good to me either but have passed two MOT's; are these not covered on the MOT? Thanks again ( a lot more questions to come no doubt )

Thanks western this last one lasted 3 weeks had it done on the mot i will give it a triy

Hi all I hope someone can help me I have a 1995 defender 110 and I have had 3 sender units fitted in the past year. The standard one on my vehicle (Part Number AMR1495 is plastic and keeps cracking where the pipe meets the sender unit. Does anyone know if you can get a metal one that won't crack for this year and model? It must have a straight tube on it not a bent one. Thanks for all your help Roy

Hi All I'm soon going to be doing my first full service. I'm alright with all the other oils and lubricants but I'm not sure about the antifreeze. I have a 1995 defender 110 deisel. Can anybody offer any advice on a good quality antifreeze and on the amount to use as I want to compeletely drain it and renew it all with new, ready for the winter. Thanks

Thanks all good advice as all ways not shore which way to go yet but will get it done soon Royaub

I've just been in a garage and had all the back end replaced. The guy recommended that I get it waxoyled and quoted me £200. My questions are: 1) Is waxoyl any good? 2) would it work out cheaper doing it myself? 3) If waxoyl is no good can you recomend anything else? 4) The guy at the garage said something about him mixing 50% waxoyl with 50% oil; has anyone else heard of this before and is it any better than 100% waxoyl? All opinions valued. Thanks Roy

Hi souster agen I dont now if you have see this & if you or like me new to landrover thes liks may help http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731

Hi souster I have a 300 tdi defender 1995 & mine is the same as yours I did mine last month & it went ok. I had a bit of a problem putting the new Collier in. I used a wizard with a small grinder inside the drop arm then it went in ok. don't grind it to much do a bit & try it if it wont go repeat un till it dos. & I did it still at ached to the land rover I followed this.have look at the link below Ihope this helps http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14338

Thanks all wen i get it back from the mot i will look at it Thanks Roy

Thanks Tinkerer The track rod ends are new The drop arm ball joint is new The drop arm is tight The Panhard Rod bushes, bolts and bracket holes can all wear: i have not checked these yet but it is due for it's mot on monday so I hope he will check this I have followed the steering down to the box and the 2 inch play seems to be in the box, do you think this could be adjusted or would it have to be a replacement The play is also there when I'm not moving but the engine is on. Thanks Roy

Hi all I have a 1995 defender 110 can anybody tell me if it is normal to have a 2inch free movement in the steering box. I don't have any leaks and I don't seem to have any other problems with the steering. As this is my first landrover I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Thanks Roy

Hi Steve I can't help you on the stainless part as I've never had one. But I have a 1995 110 300tdi and I just had a full standard exhaust from Paddocks for £120. I'm no mechanic by any means but I found the removal and refitting to be really easy. Just a few bolts. I would suggest getting new bolts as they have a habit of snapping when they've been on a while. The only two problems that I had was 1) refitting them back on the rubbers was difficult but do-able and 2) If yours is like mine and you are replacing the back section it is very bendy to take account of going around the axil. The back box is slightly bigger than the original but I found that if you leave the wheels on the ground and jack up the body to expand the springs this gives you a little more clearance to get it through. And watch the bolts on the manifold they tend to break if you are not careful. hope this helps Roy ps Let us know how you get on when you do it.

Hi Western it hasn't cracked by the bolt mounting holes it is the edge of where the two meet. It doesn't seem like it is an actual crack so much as where the powder coating has come away. It is the edge of the cylinder, where it meets the servo. Any other thoughts? Thanks for your help

Hi all Can anybody tell me if it normal to have a very light hissing sound come from the brake servo/master cylinder? I have a bit of the powder coating come away from between where the master cylinder and the servo meets but I'm not sure if it has always made that noise. I'm having no problems with the brakes as far as I am aware. If it is a leak it is very tiny, can I get away with putting some sealant around it? or does it have a gasket on it? if so is it easy enough to do myself? I'm not a mechanic but I have rebuilt a hub/swivel housing and replaced bushes and ball joints so I am quite handy that way. Any help would be much appreciated, Thanks Roy ps I have a 1995 landrover defender 110

Thanks Andy

Hi folks I'm changing the gasket on a 1995 110 300 Tdi rocker cover/valve cover. Can anybody tell me what the torque setting is for the three retaining bolts as I can't find it in my manual? Thanks for your help Roy

Hi all jobe done thanks

Hi all I have a 1995 defender 110 and I have just done my swivel housing due to the ball being damaged. In the end I did the ball, all seals, gaskets and bearings.The only thing I couldn't do was the stub axle bearing as you have to take that to a dealer to have that done. The general opinion is that they very rarely fail anyway. All was pretty easy as I am no mechanic. You just need to be careful to make sure the drift and the preload are right.I used a digital gauge on mine. It all cost about £90. One of the most expensive things I found was the drift shims as there are twelve of them of various thicknesses ranging from £2-£6 each this made it a total of £35. Just a note to neill.birdThe Haynes Workshop Manual is ok but for £15 you are better off with the Haynes Restoration Manual which has a step by step illustrated section with full text and much better pictures.It is a lot clearer to follow. The only tools that I needed apart from the torche wrench and a variety of sockets was the large socket for the hub nut to set it to the right torche. If anyone is interested I have a full set of torche settings for the whole job. Hope this helps Roy

I can't get the drop arm off because I can't get in to hit it with a hammer. There's no room so I'm going to have to do it in situ. The only thing I can think to do is to try and grind a little from the inside of the housing. I think it has gone in cock-eyed and has made a lip inside the housing which is stopping it from going fully in.