dailysleaze
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Posts posted by dailysleaze
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Depends if the Allmakes pump you bought was STC3407 (circa £15) or STC3407G (circa £30). The latter being part of their PR2 range so at least it has some credibility.
Britpart only sell the £15 pump, so I would have expect them to fit that into the case no matter how "good" the case manufacture is.
If you have the more expensive Allmakes pump I would fit that instead of the Britpart one. Although if you can provide photos then we can give better opinions.
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A Defender with a 1HZ would be the dream...
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41 minutes ago, Wheely said:
I found answers to all the questions -the only one pending is:
3) I can't find a 200TDI alternative for the crank rear oil seal which for the 300 TDI is page 213, item 15 - is there another piece that should be changed if not this one?
can you help please so i can place the order?
thanks!
If you mean to want the part number for the 200Tdi crankshaft seal, it's this: https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/200tdi/flywheel-clutch_53149#18
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Check the inertia switch hasn't been triggered
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2 hours ago, henk said:
And what about the warning light panel, is it screwed or ... ?.
Yes it unscrews
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Depends how much time you have to prepare...
Those things would be nice to be able to monitor, but first I would make sure that the main systems are in good order - radiator fins intact, wheel bearings greased, all oils/filters changed, bushes/shocks not failing, alternator charge output sufficient, battery has life in it, UJs greased.
The standard gauges should be fine. Check/clean the earths as temp gauges can read a bit funny if there's an earth problem.
Sounds like a fun trip. Breaking down is half the fun anyway, or at least it was when my Defender broke down in Ghana (twice) 😁
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Also, the flywheel can be 180 degrees out when the pump is locked, so give it another rotation and check again to be sure.
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Your 300Tdi has EGR, so identical pipe to yours would be https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/ANR3563
However, it looks to be obsolete, so you could either find a used one on ebay in the UK or use one of the pipes linked by western which don't have the t-piece for the EGR vacuum feed if you're not using it.
The two rubber end pieces are not available separately so you could even just replace them with some generic vacuum hose.
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Make sure any wiring you get done is properly sheathed/grommeted/clipped. Ghanaian auto-electricians might not have the same understanding of what a proper job entails and you may end up with problems later on.
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I did the string method once and whilst everything looked aligned, it turned out to be 8mm toe out and ruined my brand new tyres in 20k miles. Now I do the curtain-pole-rim-to-rim method and having it checked at the garage has confirmed this way to be pretty accurate.
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This video's quite useful for the order in which you have to adjust different components
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LR have already jumped in that it's an old concept setup. I tend to believe them as it's unlikely that the random dude who posted the photo would have anything to do with the final production version. The LR PR guy got very angry with him on Twitter before his account got nuked 🙄
https://jalopnik.com/this-is-the-new-land-rover-defender-dash-before-youre-s-1832627241
It may have similarities, but Stop and Go pedals don't scream "finished product".
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As recently seen on the Grand Tour. I had to pause it as I thought I recognised that axle 😁
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yes, I fitted one to my 300Tdi.
The clutch switch is different on a Td5 to a Puma, so you'll have to swap it over (if included)
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33 minutes ago, Paddy_SP said:
While I appreciate that they're improving the quality of their parts by leaps and bounds
Their tactic is to peddle whatever's cheapest to manufacture, so it may be better one year then worse the next.
I would go Allmakes for circa £10, the Bearmach ones are half the price so will be rubbish. Although, genuine isn't much more.
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There seems to be a decent amount of information from Nanocom about how the ABS ECU works: https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/uploads/downloads/WABCO D TYPE (DEFENDER) ECU Guide.pdf
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Do you mean from the ABS ECU to the Main ECU? There are two wires shown, a Slate/Purple one and a Yellow/Pink one. The former is the same colour as another wire on the Main ECU that connects to the speedo, the latter is the same colour as the wire from the ABS ECU to the ABS Modulator.
I could guess that the ABS ECU wants to know the real speed (so it can work out when the wheel speed is relative to actual speed for traction control purposes) and the Main ECU wants to know when the modulator has activated.
But you shouldn't take that as advice.
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The latest Wolf parts catalogue lists the 300Tdi radiator/intercooler assembly as the same part number the standard 2003-on version (PFI100041). There's no reference to PFI100042 - the only results being the retailers' own websites, so they may know something we don't.
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Driving style makes the biggest difference. If you drive like you don't want to use the brakes, then you should see 30+
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If you paid by PayPal and he hasn't used tracking then he hasn't got seller protection, so you're in a strong position to get a refund if you need it.
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I still won't buy one, or the new Defender, as won't most other luddites on here. Yet I would buy an EV right now if I didn't have a Defender.
It was interesting to me that it's come at a time when LR are still in the business of selling diesels and the eventual 4 year wait for the Defender has meant genuine competitors have come in from left field.
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I'm clearly not the only one watching what's happening with electric vehicles 😉
The video below is what I watched. EV's have been advancing so much that they're close to a tipping point where it's win-win-win-win over ICE cars. This thing made me sit up and take note as it's essentially competing with the new Defender, and I thought "why would you buy the new Defender when there's this?".
I know it's all on paper, but so is the new Defender. Reliability, build quality, etc all have to be proven, but we know LR could get these aspects wrong too. They're also launching in the same year. For a lifestyle vehicle, it has produced some intriguing specs that will probably match the new Defender, yet it's full electric and has all that extra space that lifestyle buyers want (and the flip down seat!)
I watched this, not knowing it was coming and immediately thought of how out of touch LR seem to be. Couple that with all the recent jobs news....
1988 110 2.5 Turbo Head Lights on/off
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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It could be both.
Later vehicles had a more simple resistor (XBL10003L) and separate relay (YWC10050L) behind the dash, presumably because the earlier one is unreliable. You could wire in the later setup - it may cost you the same but be more reliable.