dailysleaze
-
Posts
999 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by dailysleaze
-
-
Look here lower down
-
My steering goes heavy when the belt slips
-
I researched for ages, having had the same dilemma as you and finding the same results. In the end I went for a genuine aerial for £30 and the reception is now perfect, having only worked 20% of the time on the old aerial. I don't use car washes so I think I'll be safe 😁
I think a punt on an eBay one is the only non-eye watering option. They looked too cheap for me and I didn't need DAB so the standard aerial has worked out well.
-
Yes the first one (the 6way) is for the rear door https://www.landroverworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2002my/C0704
The second one I can't see that well but doesn't look original
-
10 hours ago, Scotts90 said:
Yes td5 setup, just don't buy a Britpart cable or handle...you may at best get the bonnet to open once before it breaks.
I had this exactly. Get a second hand one from eBay.
-
The pin is part of the plate with the screws in, so may have sheared off, therefore you'll have to buy the whole plate.
See link below at item 2. Rubber washer is item 3.
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/seats/seating/lock-rear-forward-facing-split_53662#2
-
It's the same part for both, with a scored area to push through the manual winders
-
1
-
-
Later puma shedders are foam for the steel doors. They may not be an exact fit on earlier doors but they probably work. Here's what they look like
They may have a sound deadening property but other than that, if you ever go back inside the door then you have to cut it whatever it is
-
This was on an overlander 110
-
Mine are 4 years old. Not leaking but the coating has worn off where the seal sits in the straight ahead position
-
Another option is the expansion cap isn't holding pressure and is venting steam
-
Td5 or 300Tdi?
-
This still feels a bit ambiguous about what is being talked about. Either the fan pulley bearing or the viscous unit bearing itself. Take the fan off and check for play in this nut in the photo below. I have seen one where the fan viscous bearing has disintegrated and this nut is rattling around. Then check for play on the fan pulley. Details on changing the fan pulley bearing: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Fan_bearing.html
-
45 minutes ago, Peaklander said:
i think it’s very hard for you to make comparisons with other people. It all depends an exact personal circumstances including their particular interpretation of your risk.
this ^, but mine last year was £245 flux direct
-
7 hours ago, dailysleaze said:
I got 36mpg in Morocco driving 60mph. Best in the UK has been 33, averaging 31-32 (it's a 110, 180k miles).
When I first got it it was doing 26mpg. The biggest change happened when I fitted a turbo gauge. I too drive like neil110. I only use the brakes to slow down as a last resort. It's like a game
I will caveat this by saying it's on a 1.2 T-box, commute is 50 miles B-roads/lanes & 30 miles motorway, EGR & cat removed, 235/85 BFG AT tyres, serviced every 6-9 months, mostly empty vehicle. I only measure it by filling one click on the pump (mostly the same garage) and using the speedo mileometer, which is whatever% out from true. https://fuel.io/ is what i use to track it.
The biggest things i've seen that drop my mpg, driving the same roads, have been fuel leaks (leak off pipes, injector union, injection pump spindle seal, fuel tank breather), heavy loads or constantly driving into a head wind.
Mpg only matters to people who like efficiency (like me). If you like the being pushed into the back of your seat and hearing the roar of the engine then economy is not your thing and mpg values don't matter.
-
What scale of magnitude reduction in accuracy do you all see over time? 1%, 10%?
-
I got 36mpg in Morocco driving 60mph. Best in the UK has been 33, averaging 31-32 (it's a 110, 180k miles).
When I first got it it was doing 26mpg. The biggest change happened when I fitted a turbo gauge. I too drive like neil110. I only use the brakes to slow down as a last resort. It's like a game
-
If yours is after VIN no. 1A612405 then you want STC4807 on the front (93mm wide) and TVC100010 on the back (75mm wide)
If prior to that VIN then you can use TVC100010 on all props, or I would measure all your current props just to make sure they haven't been changed for something non-standard.
p.s. TVC100010 supercedes RTC3346 and RTC3458, but are the same size so they're not "wrong"
-
This is the thread you want that explains all
-
What colour wires does it have?
-
Also, it looks like a double cab converted to a utility wagon. The rear tub has marks where the hood cord hasps were, the rear crossmember has the brackets for a dropdown tailgate and the roof is from a hardtop (no alpine windows).
So it may have had a great deal of work doing to it, of unknown competence.
-
Looks to be this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-X-LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-110-2-5TD5-COUNTY-SPEC-UTILITY-LOTS-OF-EXTRAS-/192534174100
All I can say is don't be distracted by its appearance. The real stuff is underneath. Use the guides you've found online to check the problem areas. I would spend at least 2 hours checking over the vehicle for that kind of age and money.
-
I gave them more credit than was due
-
From this tweet it looks like it's going to be some nostalgia gush
puma half shafts
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Puma shafts don't have spacers - they should be a snug fit.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/post584474.html