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Posts posted by dailysleaze
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On 9/13/2018 at 8:19 PM, MR-HIPPO said:
The 300tdi defender main loom to engine loom has two plugs, a large multi plug, and a single round plug that carries the feed from the starter relay to the immobiliser.
The engine loom side of the small plug is connector no C203.
C203 is attached to a metal clip, I am trying to identify the clip.
One end of the clip is a spade type tab with a square hole, and the other end has a bolt hole.
I need to panel mount a 300tdi engine compartment fuse box, and it looks like two of these clips will do the job just fine.
Thanks in advance Hippo
It might be 20 or 21 on this link?
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/engine/300tdi/cylinder-head_53178#21
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This link might help. Essentially the seal and mud shield have to be matched. FRC8220 will match your mud shield FRC8154.
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/axles-differentials/pinion-flange-pinion-oil-seals
You could change to the later style which is a round flange but you'd have to replace all three items.
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Lots of good stuff to think about 👍. Painting is definitely an option. I originally thought LEDs as they my be more low profile and I won't bash them off by accident like I could with tubes. I don't want them to hang into the space too much.
I did have three 12v led tapes running the length of the rafters hooked to an old car battery, but once that died it wasn't very convenient. Wondering now whether to align the lights longitudinally or up on the cross rafters out of harm's way.
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I'm going to be bringing electricity to my detached garage, which is very exciting 😎
Has anyone got recommendations for lighting? Not just the light products but positioning and any other tips. I'd at least like LED and for it to be BRIGHT in all nooks and crannies. It's a 5m x 2.5m x 2.5m volume with five 2-inch wide rafters.
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Was great weather today. Getting bigger every time I go. There were at least two Dutch businesses there selling stuff which I'd not see before.
Just as I arrived the marshalls confused the traffic and a BMW t-boned a Freelander at the entrance. They were not happy....
The website has a prepay and print your own ticket option now, but only saw it too late to use it. Would save 10 mins queuing to get in.
Hardly any new take off stuff these days (for obvious reasons) so you really have to hunt for the good stuff.
There was a new stand I'd never seen selling recon diffs and t-boxes. Very shiny and newly painted, yet I looked at one of the diffs and it had very obvious damage where a crownwheel bolt had come loose and jammed in the diff carrier. You need your wits about you to avoid the tat.
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You could try taking off the plastic spade attachment to put on the new alternator. What part number did you buy? The one on the right is AMR4249
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99% sure your exhaust manifold gasket has cracked
Definitely check the leak off pipes. Remove them and fold 180 degrees to see any cracking
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I would always start with genuine LR MTF94 and see how the gearbox reacts to it, then go hunting down more specialist oils if there are problems (a sticky second gear is normal)
For axles I use EP80W90 and the T-box I use EP75W90, but EP90 is what's specified so it'll do.
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No, but if we're talking about money then economy is a consideration.
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300Tdis also have better economy. I would run a Td5 but only a 15p and as late a model as I could get.
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Actually, the new mudshield may be an improved part and may fit older boxes. It needs to be pressed onto the flange. In your photo it's just resting - did you try and press it on?
This is how it should look when fitted:
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After 3.5 years i'm bringing this back up as i've got a separate genuine wheelbox that I measured and it was too hard whilst still on the car...
OD of the thread is 15.4mm. 0.9mm on the thread gauge is too small but 1mm is too large.
I don't have an imperial thread gauge. Any clues anyone can suggest about what the thread might be?
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Ah ok. Maybe they're planning something big...
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The winner may have asked for anonymity, like what you can do if you win the lottery.
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Yep cheers, you're probably right. Will have to plan to interrogate it a bit more as I don't do many journeys that get up to temp, plus only have a 20-30 minute window to test it before it cools down. It must have been like this for a while as I couldn't remember the last time i'd stopped and restarted when hot. Trundling to the petrol station to fill up was never a problem. The spider box in the battery box does feel quite warm when this happens. Thinking about getting a bypass for peace of mind anyway.
Here's a video for the time being for future reference if others have the same symptoms and will post the cause when I find it.
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Starter turns fast but there's no signs of catching after its up to temperature, but does start after 30mins of sitting. Doesn't cut out whilst driving. No problems starting from cold
I believe it could either the spider, fuel solenoid or the starter solenoid. (Defender 97)
Do these sound like the most likely culprits?
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The Aussie youtubers are all sponsored up to the hilt with redarc systems and no surprise, they seem to like them 😏
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Certain Disco transfer boxes had temp senders that illuminated a dash warning light at a certain temp (don't know what). They're mounted at the height of the input gear on the LHS
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If the ground isn't totally level it can misread quite a bit
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He does tend to rant, but it sounds logical
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Here's a video that came up recently and seems relevant to this discussion
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Fuel and air filter, why?
in International Forum
Posted
Exactly. If we can sell 1 then we can sell 2, right? 😁