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Everything posted by dailysleaze

  1. Here are some dimensions: https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/BX110095M
  2. Depends if that one is your perfect Defender. Spend the money if it is, OR sell for £3500 and use the £7000 you would have spent doing it up to buy a better Defender for £10,500. An 18 year old vehicle in that condition will only be a money pit from now on.
  3. I see they also guessed the starting price correctly, just below the logo
  4. There's tons appeared on ebay recently at around £14-1500, so I imagine they're all from the same source
  5. The early Leafs had carp batteries with a massive degradation in capacity over time, which are now coming into the second hand market. The pace of innovation and increases in energy density of batteries is astounding. We're probably only 2 years away from a 400 mile range electric vehicle on a single charge. Tesla batteries are pretty good. They heat their batteries when it's cold and cool them when they're hot, so they're always at the optimum temperature to prolong their life. The batteries in the Model S are replaceable, but in the latest Model 3 they're integrated into the car, so Tesla have decided they aren't worried about having to replace them. A lot of people's preconceptions with electric vehicles are being thrown out because of the pace of innovation. 5 years ago is like the stone age. Permanently installed batteries are probably here to stay. I'll be interested to know if they launch the new Defender with a full electric version or it'll be a hybrid and we'll have to wait.
  6. Ah interesting. That was a feature for "Gulf states" in the Td5 era.
  7. I'd buy FTC5268 as it supercedes, looks very similar and FTC3145 isn't readily supplied by LR as a genuine part. You could just buy both as they're pretty cheap. Wholesalers will still use the old part number to appear in search results on google.
  8. The halfshaft was redesigned for the Puma era and the spacer was deleted, which is why you're seeing different versions available.
  9. I'd say standard springs. HD springs aren't very comfy unless you've got LOTS of weight on them
  10. I would replace the whole thing. The other sections will only be a couple of years behind. To replace that section is 25% of the whole thing. You could fabricate something to go just in that bit but it'd probably take longer than replacing the whole crossmember. I've not seen any part-crossmember sections premade
  11. That doesn't sound like a standard immobiliser. It could be hidden anywhere, but probably behind the dash. This is the standard fob:
  12. To bypass the ignition system (or rule it out) so you can start the vehicle
  13. Possibly the immobiliser spider. Take a long piece of wire around with you so that you can connect the battery to the fuel solenoid if required. It will help you diagnose a bit also as it's hard to when it only does it when warm.
  14. If you can get us a more close up photo of this area circled then it'll help
  15. Is it me or in the first picture do the front radius arms look slanted to the right?
  16. Here you go https://www.lrworkshop.com/parts/ERR4710
  17. I would add whichever kit had INA tensioner/idlers. I used the Bearmach kit years ago which had these. Also perhaps required are a timing cover gasket, crankshaft front seal and o-ring if you're in there.
  18. It may not exist as a separate part. The part you list does look like it's the spring by the way it's drawn on the diagram. Did you order it and found out it was a bush or found this fact from a different source?
  19. Well, air suspension is on the cards (assuming this is the new "Defender"). https://www.instagram.com/p/BwKSPVvnmNj/
  20. The relay clicking sound is commonly a dead battery. As above give it a charge, or try jump starting, to rule that out
  21. Check the wheel bearings for play also, which can rattle the pistons back in
  22. Your first Land Rover is your worst Land Rover, so just buy one you can afford, use it, learn about it, then figure out what you really want.
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