jamesvfr

cheers western, thats perfect, saved straight on my favorites Looks like they are bearmach BA2104's The other spring they match up with are OME 761's but springs are blue + am i right in thinking OME springs are yellow or is that only their shocks? James

Hi all Ive found a pair of +2 springs in the back of my garage but cannot remember whether they are fronts or rears I know they are Range rover / disco springs but do not know what make of springs they are They measure 15.5" tall Any one got an idea whether they are fronts or rears? Cheers James

the trouble is, some people are actualy proud of the work they do, if thats thier best attempt id hate to see the worst

You could just have the relay switched on from the 12v feed from the back of the alternator which is only live once running + alternator charging Thats how i done it on my winch split caharge setup James

Hi all Im sure everyone has seen the grey/black or the orange winches that ebay is scattered with + some of you may have also wondered about them Just wondering, has anyone on here have one or has had one? Wouldnt be fitted to a challenge truck or anything like that Ill be getting myself an 8274 soon but my dads thinking about one of these cheap ones for the front of his 90 Only used for greenlaning + pay+play days where doesnt usualy need a winch but would sometimes prove useful Basically if they are complete + utter S**T he can live without one + doesnt want to spend lots on a good winch + hardly use it Cheers James

I think that makes sense So basically both halves of the gearbox mount, each side of the rubber, were from the same box? Fingers crossed as said above the mounts didnt move on different 90's Cheers James

Hi all Just wondering if the part of the gearbox mount that bolts directly is the same on all manual discos, rangies + 90s? Only reason being i ripped out the old 2.25 petrol + lt77 a long time ago from a 90 my dad has as he wanted v8 auto, now getting back round to doing it again + he now wants v8 manual as we have an LT77 for a v8 in the shed but lost the mounts from the lt77 that was in it Ive got some from a 4speed rangie box + just wondered if they are the same + if the box would sit in the original place Cant move the engine mounts till the box is in to get a location Cheers all James

Hi all Got a h plate disco Just wondering if i am right in thinking that the brake hoses + fitting etc are metric unlike the earlier range rovers were imperial? Cheers James

My dad stocked + used the whole forte range when he had his workshop + he swears by everything they do, he cannot reccomend it enough to people but he also agrees that it is bad to use any flush on a high or high is mile engine for the reasons already stated unless used from day 1 As already said lots of oil changes for a while I wouldnt use 20/50, its quite an old type + grade of oil, 15/40 would be a better choice + make sure its nice + warm when its drained with regards to th 47k V8 id be inclined to do a couple of oil changes + take it on a run then another change then probably go with a flush as it should be pretty good inside + the flush should be ok due to the mileage James

Also have a look on http://v8forum.co.uk/ Loads of info on there

Sort of Thi winch itself looks like that but with the solenoids mounted on top over the motor Different type of freeaspool lever too, You lift it up + round the drum to freespool Any idea on speed? If its realy slow ill mount it in the back + get something quicker for the front Cheers James

Hi all mates got a Ryder retriever 8000lb winch in the garage which he has just given me Said solenoid would just click now + then but mostly ok + needs a cable Just just them little bits needed, good as its free Its an oldish one i think, from when they were advertising in the mags etc Just wondering if they are actually any good + what sort of speed they are? Cheers James

Hi all Not sure if this can be done at home or not Last time i used my winch the steel cable snapped just 2 feet from the hook leaving lots left I know it may have something to do with it being an slightly old cable which i will be replacing but i need to know of it can be repaired / reclamped if you know what i mean so i can re-attatch the hook Only reason is a friend crashed his car into a deep ditch yesterday + im going to recover him tonight or tomorrow, might need to winch depending on how deep the ditch is, the cable wont be used after this + i cant get a new one in time How can it be done? Cheers James

Hi all Saw them on ebay a while ago but since have not been able to find who can get them or who stocks them http://www.lermagomme.it/Scheda.asp?cat=2&id=24 is what im after in a 900x16 Any ideas anyone? I could go for the fedima siroccos as they come up larger than stated size but i think Lerma Gomme's are cheaper from what i remember Cheers James

ok cheers, its a 1990 rrc, same then, thanks for the reply James

Hi all just to check Am i right in thinking a rrc complete heater unit will also fit a 200shape discovery? if not are the motors the same Heater siezed in my disco + is freezing, got a rrc im stripping so makes sense to use it Cheers James

Hi all Was off road a week or so ago, going down a hill + a log came up + snapped both front left brake lines, i used gears as much as poss but had to use handbrake to slow me down + use hand brake to get me out of the site for recovery No problems there, got it home + handbrake still fine when moved it + parked, couple days later went to move it + handbrake stuck on solid, push the lever down + it gently springs back up itself, had put it in low box to get it on front garden off the road so i could start sorting the damages Any ideas how to realease or what the problem may be? I though maybe the shoes were warm from using it to slow me off the site etc + with hand brake on the shoes had stuck to the drum, sat there for a while beating the drum with a hammer + no joy Cant slacked the shoes to remove the drum as the adjuster is siezed solid Need some help Cheers James

personally i would go for a bit of a bigger alternator + have a big leisure battery, poss even 2 on a good split charge system, that way you can then run the fridge + lights etc with less worry for longer Have the power for the fridge on a change over relay + use the signal wire from alternator to obviously swith on the split charge relay + also action a 5 pin change over relay When parked up + engine off the change over relay would have the power going straight through it from the leisure battery/batteries but then when started the signal would then change the circuit over + use the power from the main car batt into the relay allowing the leisure batts to get a nice good charge without having to power something while being charged Any probs ill draw you up a wiring diagram Regards James

Hi all I need a new clutch pushrod, the one that sits in the end of the clutch slave cylinder Are they still availble from LR? If so anybody got a part number? If not where can i get one from? Cheers James

No air in there I checked, double checked + then got a mate to triple check just to make sure it wasnt me having a funny day Slave was originally leaking so that was replaced + theres no leaks at all from any where once the slave is fully out it does stay there if i hold the pedal down Also clutch is extremely heavy All of these reasons are making me think that the master is no large enough Will a rangie / discovery or even series 2 or 3 master bolt in? The connecting rod isnt realy a worry as i could always modify one of them to fit Cheers James

Hi all Ive got a series 1 trialler on rrc axles v8 on a series 2a gearbox Problem ive got with the clutch is that with just 1 pump of the pedal the slave cylinder does not push clutch release arm far enough to disengage clutch If i pump it very quickly it pumps the slave out a bit at a time like a hydraulic jack + pushes realease arm far enough to disengage Its the 2a slave clylinder which sits vertical on drivers side of the bellhousing with what looks like an original series 1 master cylinder What ive been thinking is that the capacity in the master is too small to move the slave in just 1 push + when pumped quickly the master refills from reservior + pumps more fluid through + eventually pushing it right out Is there anyone that can confirm this or has any ideas of how to get round this? Anyone know the bore + length of the series 1 clutch master? Cheers all James

No thats not harsh just true I know thats why they say a shield but i was trying to think how it would actually be effective if one side of the rad has a shield stopping airflow My problem is that its a 3.9 in a series 1 coiler so theres no space around the engine what so ever Have you got any pictures of your rear rad setup so i can see how you have done your shield? I will still be keeping the rad in the front + will have 2 fans in each rad James

Im just needing abit of info regarding a rear rad being fitted to a ccv trialer Had a look through ARC regs + it says something needs to be fitted to shield the rad from driver / passenger I take it by shield it means something with no holes like mesh? Rad will be fitted on the rear downbars of the cage + there is currently some large square hole mesh fitted behind the seats Just need to know so i dont have problems when im at a trial Cheers James

Its the same sort of thing as the lumenition kit except its a small sealed unit which sits in the distributor with just 2 wires coming out, dont think it was designed/made with any increase in performance in mind just as an upgrade on the points Hopefully its better with water than the standard electronic dizzy Cheers James

Hi all Ive got an old points distributor on my 3.9 trialler but ive had enough of the points Ive got a new aldon ignitor kit to fit the distributor + i also have a 35DM8 electronic distriutor sat in the garage Just want to know what would be the better one to fit? Cheers James