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Getting Comfortable
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About andrewb

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  1. No still not fixed mine either. Can go days without problem and will then suddenly pop up mid journey. Taking it to a friend for a service and he is going to check it out and see if he can find a problem.
  2. Any progress with this, would be very interested to hear the end result on this one as I have the same problem on my Freelander2, also a 2007.
  3. Would agree with the above, I converted my last 90 to a truck cab and it was very straight forward. I did, however, purchase a new seal for the roof and rear panel to bulkhead. I used a small ammount of sealant between the roof and screen as a bit of a belt and braces job and never had any problems with leaks in this area.
  4. Or get yours blasted then galvanised, or powder coated. All my 90's have had th nine wings removed and powder coated, mainly because thats what I do for a living, but all still looking good and shinny to this day. Current vehicle has a galvanised chassis so finished them in silver which means it all matches in nicely. A smooth powder coat finish also means dirt/mud just falls off with a good pressure wash.
  5. Anyone fitted a Terrafirma roof console, just interested whether they are any good and worth the money?
  6. You should have adjustable feet on the leg that folds out which should allow you to get them level. There just on a threaded bar, so if these are missing that may be the problem.
  7. Coverage was very good I gave my old pick up two coats in fairly quick succession. I also used fast hardener and had the benefit of using a booth, with a quick 30 min bake it was done and out on the road.
  8. I've used the Upol Raptor product both the black finish and the one that you can tint with your own colour. Both are excellent and as it is a 2 pack product if you are painting outside you can used another of their products called rocket to dry it even quicker. Very easy to apply just use a standard undersell gun. When my rear tub was off the chassis rather than underseal the underside I used Raptor and tinted it in the same colour as the body, still looks good 1 year later.
  9. Thanks for the link, I was thinking I would probably adjust via the mounting bracket. Knowing my luck though having done all that if I didn't ask someone would then say why didn't you just take a shim out LOL. Will advise on the outcome.
  10. My 300tdi was fitted with air con last year and ever since has always had a slight squek from the belt which has slowly got worse. Decided to finally sort it the other day and found the belt as tight as a bow string. Slackened it off and the noise stopped but the real problem revealed itself the pulley wheel on the pump is slightly out of alignment. So the question is do I just adjust by slackening off all the brackets and trying to move the pump or are there shims that cen be removed / added behind the pulley wheel?
  11. Thanks for that info on the prop I'll pass that on. Don't know why he doesn't just fit a TD5 rear axle especially as Ive offered him a good deal on one that Ive already powder coated and rebuilt. Each to their own I suppose.
  12. Thanks for that I have some spare 90 spring seats so I'll get those sent over to him, and find out how it looks with them.
  13. Many thanks - I thought that may be the case. I'm sure he is aware of the DVLA issue, but I'll mention it to him anyway. He hasn't fitted the front axle yet, is he likely to hit problems here too? Whilst I have worked on a lot of 90's, I've never worked on a 110 before.
  14. A friend is in the middle of rebuilding his 110 300Tdi onto a 90 TD5 chassis, don't ask why :-) . He is trying to fit his original Salisbury rear axle from the 110 into the TD5 chassis but the spring plates on the axle seem to be further apart, meaning they don't line up with the top mount on the chassis for the springs. Can he simply cut the spring plate mounts off the axle and re-weld in the correct position or is he likely to hit upon other issues as well?
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