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Mean Green

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About Mean Green

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    Old Hand

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    South Ayrshire, Scotland

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  1. So my 200tdi rebuild continues and I have moved on to body work. I am starting to refurbish and replace the panels on the rear tub. Should I fit a bulkhead removal bar while I am at it? Can anyone post pictures of a fitted bar please (I think it will probably be a YRM piece that I use). Does it make much of a difference to space in the cab - I am 6'4 and although I have always found the cab 'cosy' I would not say I was cramped. Are there any other positives or negatives to consider? Cheers
  2. Has anyone successfully replumbed the fuel tank on a 200tdi 90 to fit newer style wings with the fuel filler at the rear rather than at the drivers door? Where do you run the filler pipes?
  3. Thanks guys. I knew there must be something missing - it was starting to drive me mad. Looks like I need to get someone to re-fabricate the flanges on the janspeed exhaust then.
  4. I am a little confused. I have had a Janspeed Stainless exhaust on my 90 for 15+ years (probably nearer 20) - but it is now leaking at the flanges - which are corroded and obviously only mild steel. I have a standard mild steel exhaust in the garage and have fitted that - but I cannot work out where the mount should be for the back box. The front pipe is fine with the gearbox mount and crossmember mount and the tail pipe mount is fine on the crossmember, but there is another hanger on the back box which is currently hitting the chassis. Where should the hanger be? It is a ne
  5. There is a little rust on my bulkhead, esp around the hinges and along the top under the windscreen seal. I have given it a good prod with a scraper and screw driver and the metal is sound only one area which i would describe as a little deeper than surface rust. What is the best thing to treat the rust with before painting. I have used Kurust in the past with mixed results, but in fairness I didnt really take the time to prepare the sufaces and just slapped it on. Any recommendations? I will also spray the inside of the bulkhead with waxoil or dinatrol when I put it back together a
  6. Thanks folks. The hole does not look to be corroded but I might try can run a 14mm drill through the hole. I currently have the rod in place with a couple of m12 bolts in as locating pins, but I will pull the rod back off and try the bolts through the bushes just to be sure.
  7. My lockdown rebuild is continuing painfully slowly, but it is getting there. Refitting all the steering components and am confusd by the Pan Hard rod bolts. I had cut the old ones off as they had seized, so I cannot check the sizes. However, according to Microcat and every other reference I can find it says the bolts are M14 x 80 (part number BH114617 - with the alternative being an M16 from chassis 2A onward) I was planning to order nice new SS ones from YRM, but working about in the garage today I came across a couple of M14 x 100 and thought I would see if they would do the job.
  8. The filler plugs on both swivel hubs are rusted solid and are at a real risk of rounding. I have tried soaking with both WD40 and plus Gas but it is not helping. Can I fill the hubs through the top swivel pin?
  9. What are people using to isolate different metals to reduce corrosion of dissimilar metals? My reading suggests PVC tape - does it need to be anything more than Electrical insulation tape or even gaffer tape?? Or should it be more specialist??
  10. Success. Caliper bolt is out! Drilled out at 0.5mm increments until 10.5mm. I could then see threads so used the tap and cleared it out. All ready to rebuild the hub.... except one of the brake disk bolts snapped in the hub (typically the last one). Front swivel hub to axle bolts on passenger side were no problem, all came away with no trouble. Drivers side was a different story - 6 out of 7 heads rounded. Decided best way to get to them was to cut the swivel ball off. I started off with a 9 inch grinder and cutting disk, but heat from a grinder and grease in the swivel did not mix well.
  11. Thanks for all the replies - it is a very late 1993 with disc brakes, so part number FTC3375. Which is M12x35x1.25 - so i need to source an M12 x1.25 tap.
  12. So another update.. mixed success. The rear caliper with the rounded head is now off - I drilled out an M12 nut to 13mm, knocked it over the rounded head and welded it on. After a few attempts and a few broken welds (novice welder) it came off. Both front calipers came off with a lot less hassle than I thought- combination of 1/2 and 12mm sockets knocked over the bolts and a good dose of plus gas and they came away. The problem is the snapped bolt - I have drilled out out as far as I dare - I am up to 10mm drill, I believe it is a 12 mm thread - and I was expecting it to give
  13. So - as an update.... 2 x rear caliper bolts are still holding up the entire rebuild. So far I have spent almost £150 trying to remove bolts that cost 27p each!! As an aside - it looks like the front bolts are in a similar condition and are going to be just as much of a PITA!! I am waiting for a friend to come along with his welder and will weld some new nuts on to the broken/rounded bolts and hopefully they will get me back on track ASAP. I had hoped to have the rolling chassis mobile and stopping under its own steam during the lockdown furlough - but it looks like I will be
  14. Sounds like I need to invest in some Irwin grips then. After wasting most of the day yesterday and a couple of hours this morning, I threw a tantrum and gave up on the rear axle. (I might sneak up on it when it is not expecting it and surprise the bolts into submission! 😛 ). So started on the front axle - nice new swivel hubs for both sides. I couldn't remember the size of socket/spanner for swivel to axle bolts, so held up a 15mm against the first bolt and it crumbled to dust - nothing on the head to grip with spanner. (I didn't even try to slacken the nut just put the spanner up to it
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