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Posts posted by general-confusion
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Not sure if this is the best place to ask but i think it relates to most land rover power steering systems. I was in the middle of a winch challenge (Santas 2008) when for no reason my power steering just stopped working, I opened the bonnet expecting to see a thrown belt or lack of fluid but found no visible problems , being in a competition I just decided to carry on with heavy steering and after about 20 mins I took off and landed with quite a thump and hey presto the power assist was back . Later I properly ended my day by standing the truck on its nose in about 10 foot of water. When the car was back in the garage I found that the pas fluid had taken on water and gone pink so I flushed and refilled it and on bleeding the system (turning lock to lock with engine running) it has gone pink every time for 6 flushes and refills and again I have no power assist. Getting bored and fed up and wondered if anyone had any ideas
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as the title I cant see the rocker cover nuts torque in my haynes manual
Thanks
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very True Mr Nick.....not as famous as you yet.....I believe Mr Turner had his truck featured in total off road last year
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The cheek of it Adrian .....Lee told me he and Zolly are doing it plus my co driver from last year has decided he cant get 8 Sundays a year off
so I am starting with a new guy AGAIN
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29/30 only the broken hatched lines caught me out , took my car test 23 years ago but did HGV 1 last year and doing my bike test in 2 weeks (bought a fireblade on Ebay in a moment of madness !!)
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29/30 only the broken hatched lines caught me out , took my car test 23 years ago but did HGV 1 last year and doing my bike test in 2 weeks (bought a fireblade on Ebay in a moment of madness !!)
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I have to agree with Zardos on this one I have a HGV Class 1 to drive our coach when towing a up to 3500kg trailer . The Coach is plated as a goods vehicle but is not subject to 6 weekly checks as is not run under an operators licence as it is not for hire or reward. The main problem
lies with the dvla and vosa not having the same vehicle definitions. Vosa say ours is a "living Van" as it is a motor caravan that carries goods not required for the purposes of living in it ie a Land Rover in the back and should be tested at a Vosa test centre as a goods vehicle (which it is). The DVLA do not recognise this term and think it should be a class4 (car test). As far as Tacho's go we had an exemption for but when ours was presented for test with an current tacho calibration cert we were told that the law has changed and we would require to run with a disc in at all times .
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Come on Mr Nick you know the saying "If you're not nearly dying you're not really trying !!!!!"
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Booked and paid for all 6 events
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from a link from ashcrofts site
Automatic Transmissions
OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT CONVERTER OUTLET TO COOLER:
300 F=
The maximum allowable temperature. This is the recommended place to install a temperature gauge or sensor. Do not allow the converter outlet temperature to exceed 300 F. The temperature at this location will vary significantly because of load, hill climbing, etceteras. If the temperature reaches 300 F, reduce throttle. To lower transmission temperature with transmission in neutral, run the engine at 1,200 RPM for at least 2 - 3 minutes while keeping a close check for signs of engine overheating. A transmission in a heavy throttle, stall condition (a typical situation is rocking a vehicle stuck in mud, sand, or snow), may increase temperature at a rate of 1 degree per second of stall.
OIL TEMPERATURE MEASURED AT OIL PAN OR SUMP:
65 deg C The minimum operating temperature. Note: It is possible in low ambient temperatures to overcool the transmission with auxiliary oil to air coolers. Oil to water coolers in standard factory radiators will normally not overcool a transmission.
80-93 deg C Normal pan oil temperature operating range.
135 deg C Maximum allowable oil pan temperature for short durations during long hill climbs.
150 deg C Damage occurs to internal transmission parts, including warpage of metal parts, degradation of clutches, and melting of seals. Transmission oil oxidizes, (forming varnish-like substances causing further clutch slippage and compounding heat build up) and transmission oil life is extremely short.
I changed the temps from Fahrenheit to Degrees C to make it easier to understand
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Hi Jst
The temp ranges I get from the sump are as follows
85 degrees C normal running in a challenge comp
90-93 degrees sustained high speed use in a comp ie long hill climbs or a special stage
as the laminova is oil to engine coolant the gearbox temp just mirrors that , this also provides a
quicker gearbox warm up as well
Hope this helps
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I use a laminova for my 4hp22 connected to a 2.8 tgv , I use the biggest size and have a calibrated temp sender fitted to the
autobox sump , the vehicle is a challenge truck and the gearbox temp never exceeds 93 degrees c
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I properly drowned my 2.8 TGV last weekend and am in the process or sorting it out. My question is
can I remove the glow plugs and turn the engine over to expel any water from the cylinders or
do the injectors have to come out
Thanks in Advance
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Hi Mike
You all set for Santas ?
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I will be there in my Truck and my Brother in His
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Great Day , thanks to Neil and the marshals , shame we had to retire...must get a longer slip joint on the rear prop.
A big thank you to locals Ben and his friend for their help with our prop problem , will buy you a beer at Slindon
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I voted not needed
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yes mate they were hard you need 1 million quid , portals and 500 horsepower
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Both trucks all sorted ... new twin motor in my brother's with air operated
freespool woo hoo
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Just the 9 tons and the 5mpg that would put you off...though it does have a 5 ton payload and that's a lot of vodka !!
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very interesting would one of these be any good ?
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Lovely job all fixed , just one dry joint on the pcb and both windows working again
Thanks All
Power Steering problems
in International Forum
Posted
Thanks Guys I think the 2 problems are not connected as the pas packed up before the water issues. I have even tried bleeding the top of the steering box and only get a small trickle of fluid out. Do you think its more likely the pump than the steering box as I dont see much fluid movement in the reservoir