Troll Hunter
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Posts posted by Troll Hunter
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Thanks for your best wishes, simonpelly. My rebuild has little of interest in it, and there are far more captivating projects than mine. I might, however, include a photo or two of my electrical mods. Let’s see how I get on!
Mike
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My fuel filter is mounted on the right hand side of the engine compartment forward of the cooling header tank, as in simonpelly’s first photo. It has always been here, as far as I know, at least since 1995, when I bought the vehicle. The spill-back line from cylinder one injector to the FIP is a gently curved line, not one with pre-formed bends.
The two pipes connected to the filter are as in simonpelly’s second photo. Although the lower pipe in my original photo could go to the area of the 300Tdi fuel lift pump the pre-formed bends are all wrong, and the 300Tdi lift pump doesn’t have banjo fittings.
Bowie 69 and hurbie may just have hit the answer. Somewhere during the last 19 years, since I had the engine changed, I’ve collected a couple of 200Tdi pipes and I inadvertently got them mixed-up with the bits that I dismantled during the tear down.
Thank you, everyone, for your suggestions, photos and general detective work. I’ll continue with my rebuild and not worry any more.
Mike
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So you’re still unsure, simonpelly! I agree with you, but 100%. I still can’t work out where the other line would go. I don’t think that it’s a breather because of the two banjo fittings.
Mike
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Now I’ve been out to look at the engine, FIP and filter I’m sorry to say that my mystery remains. All the fuel lines are already connected up. The upper line in the photo could go from the No.1 cylinder spill back to the back of the pump, but it would need a few more inches at each end. At least it is the right shape. The other line doesn’t seem to fit anywhere. From the front of the FIP it ends somewhere in the middle of the air filter, and not the right shape to connect to the fuel pump. I’ll not worry, but will continue with my rebuild and if I find out where they go I’ll resurrect this thread and close it out.
Mike
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Thank you, thank you, thank you. For some reason I was convinced that they were parts of the breather systems. It’s funny how one can be blind when totally convinced of something. All is now well.
Mike
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My vehicle is a LHS 1991 110 CSW originally with 3.5V8 and LT77S g’box but now with a 300Tdi and R380.
I’m rebuilding the dash and I’ve got the two screen demisters installed on the plenum, which also supplies the face level vents in the dash, but I’m at a loss regarding the left hand end of the plenum. It ends with a slightly upturned outlet that is 53mm I/D and 60mm O/D. What is supposed to go onto this? Although I tried to make a text record of everything I removed , and a photo of a lot of the bits, I’ve no record of removing anything from here, which perhaps explains why the demisters never really worked!
Please can anybody throw any light on this open end.
Mike
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My vehicle is a 1991 110 CSW originally with 3.5V8 and LT77S g’box but now with 300Tdi and R380.
My memory, the LR parts manual, LRWorkshop and the LR Maintenance manual have totally failed me. About seven years ago I started my tear down and labelled most bits I removed, but I am totally lost regarding the two pipes below. They appear to not have had oil through them, maybe water, but no evidence of any liquid. I already have the breather lines on both front and rear axle tubes and on the t’box and g’box extension.
The upper pipe is approximately 54cm long and has one banjo fitting of 21mm diameter.
The lower pipe is approximately 51cm long and has two banjo fittings of 21mm and 23mm although not very clear in the photo.
The bends in the pipes are as they were when removed. Both pipes are very stiff plastic except for the short metal section that includes the banjo fitting in the upper pipe. The longer straight of the lower pipe is almost the length of the engine block. THat’s about all the detail I can provide. Can anybody throw any light on them, please.
Mike
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Totally agree with keeping detailed records, far more than you think at the time are necessary. Not having ready access to all the LR original wire colours and gauges in the lengths I’d need them I totally disregarded colours. The way I identified wires was by numbering them. I bought from Ebay a couple of sets of 0-9 numbers, 100 of each. These I slipped onto the wire at each end and I then covered each with clear heat shrink tubing. This kept the number, of three or four digits, legible and allowed me to slide the number set along the wire if I needed to shorten the wire.
Mike
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Defender 110 CSW with 300Tdi.
In the process of my total body rebuild (Charles Atlas - look out) I ripped out the rat’s nest of all my wiring, much my own additions, and decided to replace it all. Three parameters I worked to was that every consumer of 4 amps or more would be fed through a relay, every consumer would have an earth (ground) back to a bus bar and then to the battery, and I would include a dash warning light test at ignition On.. These requirements resulted in a HUGE numbers of wires and a massive amount of computer based detail logging. In retrospect I would have been much smarter to buy all the various looms and add earths, for example. It would have saved me much time and might have been cheaper. Still, that’s what I’ve done and I’m now at the stage of connecting a zillion wires from the dash panel and a Mudpod panel to the bulkhead mounted fuse panel. Happy days!
OK, from my experience I’d recommend buying the loom you need and augmenting it, if necessary. Don’t ry to make your own. If anyone wants to know more about this stage of my rebuild project, just let me know.
Mike
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I see that in Simon Pelly's photo above the EGT gauge is mounted in what looks like a Mudpod, on top of the dash. I’ve swapped my fuel gauge into my Mudpod and have the EGT gauge in its place in the dash. I did this because exhaust gas temperature can change very quickly and you need to be aware if you are approaching your maximum allowable temperature. On the other hand, you usually only need to look at your fuel gauge every hour or so, unless you are running on fumes and hope!
Mike
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What about repairing your existing bulkhead annd having that galvanised?
Mike
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I have a dashcam in my pick-up and a reversing camera in my 110. The latter communicates with my windscreen mounted screen by bluetooth. This is very useful because it saves me having to run wires from the back to the front. Also, the reversing camera is weatherproof and is mounted just above my tow hitch. I get a lovely picture to help me reverse onto my trailer. What I am looking for is a dual camera setup that provides a decent dashcam and a weatherproof back-up camera with bluetooth communication. I don’t want two screens at the top of my windscreen! Has anyone got a recommendation, or even found, such a setup, please?
Mike
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13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Also means you can buy colour-coded hoses if you're a tart
Ooh! you have got me excited now❤️🔥🈲️!
Thank you for your responses and suggestions. Yes, it’s this potential mix of imperial and metric threads that I’m afraid of. I think that your suggestion of cutting off the old fittings and either reusing them or using them to identify the correct replacements is the way to go. I also like both the suggestions of using banjo fittings and of fitting an easier access bleed screw. As far as lying on the ground is concerned, if I can’t be bothered to remove my pit cover, I lie on a double thickness sheet of bubble wrap. It’s insulating and more comfortable than bare earth or concrete.
Mike
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Most of us have at least one 🥳🤡! But never mind your vice, forget about the vise and try soaking in vinegar or some other acid. This should dissolve the rust which has “welded’ to the plastic without damaging the plastic. Just a thought, but I hope it helps.
Mike
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Many thanks for your suggestions for sourcing a braided hose. What about the end connections?
Mike
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1991 Defender 110 CSW, original engine and gearbox was a 3.5 V8 coupled to an LT77S, both replaced and now it’s got a 300tdi coupled to an R380. This change was done by independent LR specialists in UK.
I need to replace the hydraulic clutch line, both sections. As far as I know the clutch master cylinder is the original, and I assume that the slave cylinder is the appropriate one for the R380 gearbox/clutch. Please can somebody tell me the sizes and threads or specifications for the couplings at each end of the clutch line and at the joining of the two sections? Also, is there a readily available option for installing a one-piece braided flexible line?
Many thanks, in advance, for any info you can provide.
Mike
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On 1/11/2024 at 6:15 PM, HeliRy said:
Defenders done up in a sort of “classic” resto-mod look with exposed galvanized capping along the tub and rear quarter. Probably not for everyone but I dig it.
Thanks!On 1/12/2024 at 2:52 PM, HeliRy said:So my next question, is it a social faux-pas in the Land Rover community to do that merely for a more classic aesthetic? Or does anything go… short of lowering it with 22” wheels and a silly spoiler 🤣
Welcome to the forum. This is the place where you can find an incredible amount of help and technical information. The Land Rover Community doesn’t do it for a more aesthetic look. The galvanised cappings are a part of the original body as built by Land Rover.
Mike
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Welcome to the forum. I hope that this will help you. I can't remember where I copied it from, but it isn't my creation.
Mike
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^^ and for the fuse assemblies in my 1991 110 CSW.
Mike
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Many thanks, mtc and FF, for the pointer and link. I only had the LR 1987 110 Workshop Manual and the Parts Catalogue, so now I’ve got another reference to see just how wrong I am!
Mike
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Sorry, you must have a different set-up. I’ve used nearly a hundred of these in my LR fuse box and relay mounts. They fitted just fine.
Mike
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I found some Chinese ones on eBay some time ago. There are several sizes so you have to be careful and very specific. I’ll try to find what and where I ordered from.
Success! On eBay I ordered from Boamain. They’re brass, female, non insulated, and onn the flat side there is a small tab that catches on the fuse holder block to prevent it being pushed out when a fuse is inserted.
https://baomain.com/products/b01mpz2t2c
Mike
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Happy Christmas, everyone. Here, in BC, on this day last year we had 37cm of snow on the ground. Today we have green grass and temperatures are above zero. A warming climate………...???
Mike
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On 12/24/2023 at 1:55 AM, steve b said:
That is all build alignment, just shimming the BH is not enough, as stated above.
If it was mine I'd remove the front wings and while off sort out the terrible fit of the outer/top/front panel then look at the rear body/sill/BH fit.
This is the factory gap spec's.
Get a parts book to familiarise yourself with how it all goes together and where the adjustments are.
....I've found that it can be necessary to shorten the front end of the bolt tube on the BH foot (to outrigger) fixing point to get the right door gap with replacement chassis.
As Eightpot said , it's all about measuring and string (stretched along the body waist fold) to see what is needed.
Steve
Please can you tell us what publication you’ve referenced here, and is there a link to it. Thanks.
Mike
Indicators fail - both sides. 1986 110. Holding up my first MOT after 8 year rebuild... Can anyone help please :-)
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I had a failed hazard switch. Ordered a replacement and it came in a blue box 😟. This was also faulty. No output to the left indicator when in normal mode, ie hazard switch not on. Instead of trying again, and possibly again, and again, I sorted it by altering the wiring and including a diode. The system now works my way, but produces the correct results. I can supply a wiring diagram if anybody needs one.
Mike