Troll Hunter
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Posts posted by Troll Hunter
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What does your electrolysis bath do to non-rusted, machined surfaces?
Mike
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To close this out, here's what I've done. I couldn't get the park switch to operate so I opened the gear case - rivets no problem for Mr. Drill. I had already opened the park switch. Firstly I cleaned all the old grease out so that I could see what was happening. Running the motor and carefully watching the contacts in the park switch I could see that they were not being opened by the pin. After taking many measurements I decided that the cam on the inside of the plastic gear wheel was about 1mm too low, so I made a shaped steel shim 1.25mm thick to fit over the plastic cam, glued it on with Araldite, and I now have a fully working rear wiper. BTW I also removed the earth wire from the park switch.
Since I'm totally replacing the original electrical wiring this is my rear wiper circuit.
I'm sure the above will generate some comments. Feel free, I've got thick skin and broad shoulders!
Mike
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On 1/17/2016 at 12:53 PM, western said:
opened up the original motors park switch, I don't know if any one has done it before.
1st photo the internals
all plain colour wires.
brown
green
black
the plug end which matches pre 300tdi vehicles has 5 wires
2 x black = earth for motor & park switch on one pin
red = 12v feed to motor
green = signal from dash switch to park switch
brown = 12v feed from dash switch to park switch
to connect to the later motor. [300tdi on]
red = to motor
black to motor & park switch earth
green to park switch White/green
brown to park switch brown/light green
Hallelujiha, the thread has risen again, and I'm mega befudled! I've just taken my rear motor park switch apart, and it looks just like yours, above. What I can't understand is why the incoming brown wire (live) is connected to the black wire (earth) when the button is pushed up. It appears that the gear box cannot be taken apart, since it is rivetted together, so at what stage of shaft rotation is the button raised or lowered? How does this switch work?
Mike
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Here's a link to a good explanation of starter circuits that I came across recently. It explains the relationship between the starter relay and the starter solenoid.
https://startersolenoid.net/starter-relay/
Mike
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I had brand new Optima Red Top and Yellow top installed together in a twin battery set up and they both failed in just over three years. Basically expensive junk! Until well proved, stick with good old lead/acid before embracing expensive, new technology!
Mike
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Small donation to Jez has been sent and receipt received. Every little helps.
Mike
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You should probably check the clearance between the steering wheel and your thighs before fixing your seat lift. I retro fitted non-LR seats and found that there was no gap between the wheel and me! I subsequently fitted a smaller diameter wheel and I'm well pleased.
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Cash donation to Jez being arranged. Material donation from here is difficult.
Mike
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Wonderful photos. They must have revived many happy memories. Glad it's for a new locker, not a new job!
Mike
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On 2/23/2022 at 4:07 AM, Nonimouse said:
I'm hoping to retire at 75, so another 19 years. I may go down to 4 days a week for the last few years. Alternatively when I finally get divorced, I might just buy a van and travel round Greece and Albania until I manage to drink myself to death
Retire as early as you can, life's too short. There's no point in dying rich! It's 20+ years since I retired and I'm still enjoying every day, even with the odd aches and pains that come with the years. And don't ever consider yourself "old", I don't. Until the current troubles in Ukraine I've been planning, with friends, an overland trip from Sweden to Ulaan Baatar in 2023, but perhaps that will have to be replaced by some other road trip. Currently under serious consideration is Tierra del Fuego back to Canada. If it becomes reality we'll post progress.
Mike
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4
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^^^^^^^ Oil!
Mike
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Many thanks for the tip, western. One of the main things I like about this forum is that any problem a members has has usually already arisen for another member and there is a solution or work around. On with the rebuild!
Mike
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I've never heard of either of these techniques, but since you are replacing a length of brake line you'll have to bleed the system anyway, so I don't see a problem in draining the brake fluid reservoir. Provided you don't move the brake pedal whilst the reservoir is empty I don't think that the other brake lines would have any air bubbles in them when you refill the reservoir. I would still be inclined to do a proper/full bleed operation on all four wheels once the new line section and relevant caliper has been bled.
Mike
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Glad to welcome you to the No. 1 LR forum. This is predominantly a technical forum and you'll find a wealth of knowledge and experience here, and everybody is ready to share, so don't be hesitant about asking questions because you think that they're "too simple". We've all been there, and some of us (me) are there far more than most! And get those photos and the FB link up.
Mike
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3 hours ago, uninformed said:
If you or someone else has fitted the wrong thread type to the swivel housing, I would be very careful about just putting the correct original bolt back in. The threads could very well be damaged and not something that should be dismissed on one of the most critical components of a motor vehicle.
If you've damaged the male, bolt, thread you've probably damaged the female, caliper, thread. I don't know how you could check the continued serviceability of the fixings. Possibly by tightening the bolt into the caliper to its design torque value. Values are given in the attached.
https://www.fastenermart.com/files/metric_tighten_torques.pdf
Mike
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Thank you, both, Northwards and Eightpot. It never occurred to me that the wires passed through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. I've found the holes in the engine side of the bulkhead, at last. Because I already have the front wings, brake servo and heater box fitted the holes are totally hidden from view, and I've only found them by touch. Perhaps with my hinged mirror and a flashlight I'll be able to see them, but it looks very much as if I'll have to do some dis-assembly to get my wires in. At least I now know where they have to go. Many thanks, again.
Mike
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1991 110CSW
Old age strikes again! Or maybe because it’s nearly six years since I started my LR tear down for a complete rebuild, but I'm totally at a blank wall. Please can somebody tell me how the wires to the two bulkhead/door frame mounted courtesy light switches get from the dash mounted courtesy light switch to inside the hollow pillars that the doors and switches are mounted on. I assume that they also go up the A-pillars to above the head lining to the roof mounted lights, but it's access to the door switches that has me stumped ATM😕!
Many thanks for all suggestions.
Mike
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Hi, rich222,
Welcome to the forum. I must admit that I'm a little surprised that you haven't had a response to your question since the forum generally is technically orientated with a vast amount of experience and knowledge. I'm sorry that I cannot help you myself, having a 300Tdi, and not having any personal experience of rebuilding engines. At least this response will bounce your query to the top of the subject list and may catch someone's eye. Best wishes with your rebuild.
Mike
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What are the dimensions? Is the trough the same length as the width of the window? Is the length of the "drain leg" the same as the distance of the bottom of the window, when in the down position, to the bottom of the door? If the answer is "Yes" to either of the last two questions it gives an indication of where to look for previous attachment.
Mike
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Don't forget that the loom is only the victim of the fault, probably not the cause. You still need to identify and correct that.
Mike
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I didn't take your comment as anything but helpful, FF, and thanks for the further tips.
Mike
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21 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
We can also remember to remove the hideous tracking and redirection cruft from our links
Thanks, FF, I think that I've just learned something about links. When I forward emails, particularly the joke ones, I generally do remove all previous addressees and only use bcc, so each recipient only sees their own address. I didn't, until now, appreciate what all the verbiage beyond the hyphenated title was for. I'll try to follow your advice.
Mike
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Copied from the Adventure Journal, and worth a look. The vid is only 46 seconds, so it won't take a significant part of your life!
Mike
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Thanks for posting, Maverick.
Mike
Britcar
in International Forum
Posted
This is good news for everybody. Britcar was my favorite site since they provided details about the item , eg dimensions, and also availability from other suppliers. A really good site.
Mike