[Squeaking]

Thanks, I didn't recognise it as a postcode. Duh!

Mike

[Best extra engine earth connection]

I'm attempting to avoid the bad earth syndrome by providing every consumer (lights, indicators, fans) with its own earth to an earth busbar.  Each busbar has a cable to the battery negative.  Will it work, I'll tell you in some twenty years time.

PS.  I'm just gone 80 yrs old! 😄

 

[Squeaking]

One of the tips for getting the most benefit from the forum is to state your location.  Who knows where  Np108qz is?  You obviously don't want any local help.

Mike

Tel: +1 250 353 8717 (M)

[Battery tray]

Don't forget that in a roll over situation if your batteries are not clamped down the batteries potentially connect with the metal under side of the seat box (battery positive to grounded body work !!!!).  You probably don't want to add to your roll over problems by incinerating your Landrover.  Or perhaps you do .....  I've just fitted a strip of rubber insulation to the underside of the seat box.

Mike

[The GKN Overdrive]

23 hours ago, vulcan bomber said:

I hope the mods are ok with this but I can now sell people a set of gaskets for the GKN unit. £15 a set including postage and with a couple of extra gaskets for the inspection cover to allow you to remove the cover for servicing. And significantlu cheaper than Devon who sell 1 gasket for £12!!

 

How many people here are actually running a GKN?

I am definitely up for a set.  Please let me know the postage to BC, Canada.  I don't expect UK postage to apply internationally.  PM me for my address.

Mike

[its all paid off....]

Congrats to you both, and what a bonus - having a partner who loves Land Rovers and off-roading

[Clutch line quandry]

Many thanks for your replies and info.  The engine change was done, by others, and I have no idea if the slave cylinder was changed or not.  Since the system is in pieces I might as well renew the slave with the correct one.  Please can someone give me the appropriate part number?  Many thanks.

Mike

[Clutch line quandry]

Having a hybrid, in terms of a 1991 CSW with an original 3.5 V8 with, I believe, a L77s gearbox, and now having the same vehicle with a 300TDi and a R380 gearbox, I have major questions about the clutch piping system.

 

1. Will the original master cylinder supply sufficient fluid volume to actuate the 300TDi/R380 slave cylinder?

2. Is the ID and thread of the master cylinder the same for both clutch master cylinders?

3. What are the threads and IDs of the L77s slave cylinder and the 300TDi/R380 slave cylinder, since they are not the same?

    

Also, my existing clutch line includes a section of coiled semi-rigid line, presumably to absorb vibration. Is this include in Item 16, p 480 of my 1997 parts manual?

 

Any help on these questions will be very much appreciated, and many thanks in advance to any and all who can provide answers.

 

Mike

 

[Door courtesy light setup from scratch]

Thank you, Peaklander, I like your proposal.  I think that that is the way to do it.  I'll put a switch in each power supply line. 

Today I've spent sorting the wiring for some dash mounted utility outlets, power and USB, and the under-bonnet lights.  Both sets now work😊.

[Door courtesy light setup from scratch]

On 2/9/2023 at 2:47 AM, Peaklander said:

If it's not too late you might like to add some footwell led strips. They are as cheap as chips and could parallel-up with your overhead lights but you obviously need a +12V feed down there. I have just added them to my vehicle.

 

Thank you, L19Mud and Bowie69, for confirming my design is OK.  Regarding the earths, I'm taking serious steps to avoid future earth problems.  I'm doing a total rewire and every electrical fitting has an earth wire back to a busbar.  From memory, the only exceptions are the Low Oil Pressure switch and the engine coolant sender which both earth through the body/mounting bolts.

I like this floor illuminating idea.  I'm just installing two LED strips under the bonnet and will install the same for the footwells.  I'll have to think about the wiring and activation of these.

Mike

[Door courtesy light setup from scratch]

HGi, all,

 

Although the OP hasn't commented there have been 87 views, but no comments.  Does his mean my circuit is complete rubbish and not wasting time on, or is it OK?  If it is c**p please let me know.

Mike

[Testing New Forum Works]

I fully agree that too many sub-fora can be self defeating, but I still think that this one should include the entire transmission train from the flywheel to the tyre since all parts are inter-related.

Mike

[Testing New Forum Works]

On 12/30/2022 at 5:26 PM, Troll Hunter said:

Since before I joined there have been sub-fora for specific vehicles and various other niche topics.  I feel that this sub-forum could be expanded to cover the entire transmission, ie everything behind the flywheel.  I'm sure this option would have been discussed by the admin team, and obviously discarded, but I'm interest to know the reasoning.

Mike

No response from Mods or Admin, why not?  What was the logic?  It's not just the axle components that affect drivability it's wheel/tyre size, over/under drive, t-box rations and gearbox ratios.  All these have to be considered when deciding on axle components.  Surely, this new sub-forum should look at Transmission as a whole.

Mike

[Buying 2008 110 pick up]

On 1/18/2023 at 8:13 AM, ROBBIE9999 said:

I swap my cars to LS3 even my grass mower has a LS3, if I could fit a LS3 in my toaster trust me lads I would, but lets see if it really is smart to do so

 

You might get some pointers from:

https://www.defendersource.com/

It's based our side of the Atlantic and it seems that quite a lot of LS3 swaps are discussed there.

Mike

[Pektron A75-294 Diodes]

Thanks for the reassurance, FF. I'll ignore all the items in my previous list.  Hi-Fi radio in my LR is not a possibility, let alone an objective, so the occasional interference will not be a problem.  Thank you, again, to everybody who has contributed to this thread.

Mike

[Door courtesy light setup from scratch]

My courtesy light wiring was also a right mess and they were not reliable.  I've replaced it completely with the circuit below.  I now have a light above each front seat, one in the centre above the rear seat and a fourth just inside the rear door.  One of the most unreliable aspects of the original system was that the door switches earth through the mounting which are subject to raging corrosion.  I have installed dedicated earth wires from each switch to local earth busbars which are connected to the battery negative.  The three courtesy lights normally have their local switches set to "ON with Dash or Door switch", but can also be operated with the local switch.  Please ignore the numbers by wires.  I don't have the luxury of colour coded wires so I affix numbers instead.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[Pektron A75-294 Diodes]

Thank you, all.  It's slowly coming together.  Since my vehicle was originally a V8 with air-conditioning, there may well have been a diode(s) in the A/c system, now gone, as Sigi_H suggests,  and since it was first registered in Kuwait it may have been to Saudi spec, as shown in the 300Tdi Electrical Circuit Diagrams, and it has got a HRW, which accounts for another one, both identified by western.  Thank you, western.  The 300Tdi Electrical Circuit Diagrams also shows a diode in the brown/yellow lead to the alternator.

So, having identified five possible locations for diodes, are there any of the locations in my earlier list that would benefit from a diode, primarily to reduce arcing at the switch?  If nobody (FF) comes back with recommendations I'll stick with the HRW, park brake and alternator locations.

Mike

[Pektron A75-294 Diodes]

14 minutes ago, monkie said:

This rings a bell. I had this very problem a few years ago before I did the rewire. It wasn't 12v leaking back, but just enough to prevent the solenoid from closing so I had to stall the engine to stop it. I think I had a thread about it... 

You did, on 1st January 2019.  It's one of the threads that western included in his reply.

Mike

[Pektron A75-294 Diodes]

OK, that's one accounted for, although I don't understand how it works in the VSR.  Damn electrickery!  Thank you, monkie. 

I've identified the section of wiring from the alternator to the battery, including the section to the no charge warning bulb.  This section is intact and includes the resistor, but does not include a diode.  As far as I can tell from the wiring sections the fuel shut-off solenoid does not have a connection to the alternator.

So what are the other two for? Do any of my list of suspects qualify?

Mike

[Pektron A75-294 Diodes]

Of course, I did forget some items.  What about the two screen wash pumps, one for the windscreen and one for the back window, and what about all the relay coils?  Do these small current users require protection with a diode?

Mike

[Pektron A75-294 Diodes]

Hi, All,

The vehicle is a 1991 Defender 110 CSW in middle east spec. which originally had a 3.5V8 but now has a 300Tdi

You can tell from my earlier requests for help that I'm no expert in electrickery.  I now have another question that I need help with.  In the rat's nest of old wires from behind the dash there are three Pektron A75-294 diodes.  The old wiring doesn't give any clue what they were for since none are connected close to any component and each seems to have multiple wires connected to it.   Also, cable colours do not give any sensible clues!  I'm assuming that they are all flyback diodes, but what circuits were they protecting, and are there only three circuits that need protecting?  Or can a single diode protect multiple circuits?  I've not seen this in any of the Youtube vids I've watched.

I understand that a flyback diode is required on inductive circuits, and those I've been able to identify are:

- Starter solenoid

- FIP solenoid

- Cabin heater fan motor

- Starter motor

- Ignition coil - from original motor

- Alternator

- Rear window Wiper motor

- Windscreen wiper motor

And I'm sure that I've not identified some😕.

So, if anyone with the necessary linked-up grey cells can enlighten me I will be very thankful.

Mike

[Handbrake switch and warning light]

Hi,

My top left warning light position, Park Brake, is also empty, and I'll leave it that way.  I don't have a PDWA switch so I'll use one position for Park Brake ON and the other for Low Brake Fluid Level in the reservoir.

Mike

[Handbrake switch and warning light]

Thank you, all, for your replies and explanations.  It seems that I have a redundant Brake system warning bulb location.  And whether I need to re-include that printed circuit gizmo time will reveal.  Of course, if it is a part of the Low Fuel Warning Light circuit I can do without it.  Not all LR vehicles had it.  So, thanks again, another mystery solved.

Mike

[Handbrake switch and warning light]

Thanks, Peaklander.  I don't know why it didn't load, but I'll try again.

[Handbrake switch and warning light]

Vehicle is a 1991 110 CSW, originally with a V8 and for the Middle East market, specifically Kuwait.

I’m still confused regarding brake system warning lights. On my warning light panel there are three lights that appear to be for brake situations, see photo. The one at top left appears to be a warning that the Park Brake is ON. One of the others is warning of low brake reservoir fluid level. What is the third? Is there any other brake system warning? Could one have been installed for a worn-out brake pad warning, as is found on modern vehicles, although there is no evidence around the brake calipers or pads of such a system ever having been installed? What am I missing, or is the third symbol just an unused location?

 

To add to my confusion, while removing a rat’s nest of old wiring from behind the dash I found this little gizmo. It was wrapped in what used to be called Denso Tape. What is it for, what does it do, and do I need to reinstall it?

 

Any help on either or both of these queries will be very much appreciated.

Mike