Troll Hunter
-
Posts
1,320 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
11
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Troll Hunter
-
-
On 1/2/2023 at 6:09 AM, Snagger said:
He’s a Manc - he’ll go in a can and call it Bodingtons…😜
Yes, but he'll share it with his friends!
-
Thank you for these suggestions. I must admit that I haven't looked at any of the options for getting a cable to my shop, but I will certainly follow-up on your suggestions. I've only had the shop for eleven years, so there's obviously no great rush!
Mike
-
Thank you, Peaklander, that is what I think I need to do. It's about , guessing, 40m from where the router is, and I could lay the cable in a conduit and bury it all the way - thank god for a Kubota with a narrow back hoe bucket! Yes, one more job on my list. Will I ever clear my list?☹️
Mike
-
Thank you all for your contributions and experience. It seems that Fiamma is the top choice, is hard-wearing, but tends to be expensive. Considering the relatively light use any canopy will have on our road trips I think that we'll probably stay with the "tarp , two poles and some guy ropes" version, despite my original reluctance.
Mike
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:
..... happy Land Rovering without any breakdowns. (Well we can always hope)
Nah, that would be too boring!
Mike
-
1
-
-
Nothing to do with lifts, but on the general design it would be most useful to install water, both cold and hot, if possible, for hand washing. And while you're at it, a toilet, or at least a urinal, it takes up less room. It's a b****r having to take your hoes off to go into the house for a pee.
Mike
-
On 12/31/2022 at 9:58 AM, Snagger said:
They replace a core plug in the block. Unfortunately, they are 110V, so useless outside of North America. Shame, as they should be more reliable and much neater than the Kenlowe types.
You could consider running two in series, and at their cost it's not prohibitive.
Mike
-
Since before I joined there have been sub-fora for specific vehicles and various other niche topics. I feel that this sub-forum could be expanded to cover the entire transmission, ie everything behind the flywheel. I'm sure this option would have been discussed by the admin team, and obviously discarded, but I'm interest to know the reasoning.
Mike
-
Many thanks for your replies. I had searched on eBay, with little success, but had not considered AliExpress. Coolant heaters are relatively rare out here but air heaters are quite common. My LR is parked in the open and my idea for a coolant heater is to have a warmed engine before starting it, more to reduce cold engine wear than to improve cabin comfort. We've just had ten days or so of -18C so improved cabin heat would also be very welcome.
Thanks for your warnings about many look-alikes not being approved. I'll very carefully review details of any heater I'm tempted to buy.
Mike
-
1
-
-
Apologies for putting it in the wrong thread. I had meant to put it in the Hand Brake thread which was the next one down.
Thanks for identifying the purpose of the mystery hole. I had discounted securing the gaiter to the bracket because there is also a securing location on the gaiter that fixes to the front of the seat box.
Mike
-
1
-
-
For larger items, perhaps up to a whole chassis, it's not too hard to build a "bath" out of some 2x6 or 2x8 boards lined with polythene film, up to 10ft wide, as used by builders. Although the treatment might be slow, because of the total area, it's still cheaper, and more effective, than sand blasting. I wish that I had been switched on to this process when I had my chassis blasted and galvanised five years ago.
Mike
-
1
-
-
As in the title. I see many adverts and threads in this forum that address the air heating variety of Chinese "parking heaters", and these are usually much cheaper than European models, but having searched extensively I cannot find any units that heat and circulate the coolant. Do These exist in the Chinese market?
Mike
-
Hi, All, and the very best New Year wishes to everybody,
Having resolved that my vehicle, a 1991 110 CSW, LHS, never had a handbrake warning light, I am now puzzled by the handbrake rubber boot. On the accessible side, this has a moulded recess with a hole at the centre, approx 3/8” diameter, that appears to line up with the hole in the lever mounting bracket, which is 1/4” diameter, as in the photo. This hole has a nut welded to the remote side which takes an M5x0.8 screw. Would any part of a handbrake switch mechanism have been mounted through the rubber boot? If not, what would/could have been mounted there?
Many thanks for any and all suggestions.
Mike
-
^^^ Same.
Mike
-
The attached may help you select wire diameter for whatever length you need.
Mike
-
If a significantly higher current draw is involved one option would be to keep the existing wiring to the existing fuse location but run the output from the fuse to a new 40 amp relay, suitably wired, and let that feed the heated screen. Apart from ensuring the wiring is up to the job you also reduce the risk of burning out the HRW switch with a higher than design duty.
Mike
-
Best season's greetings to all. Today I've had minor knee surgery so I will be working it for all I'm worth. Should be good for at least a couple of days of leg up, but not over, and waited on hand and knee.
May 2023 bring us all health, happiness and more time using than fixing our hobby masters.
Mike
-
Even less bother to sell it to me for CAD100, including delivery! Save all that worry about concrete and welding, etc!
-
Even if you are allowed to drill holes you need to be sure that the floor is strong enough. Unless it has steel re-bars and is probably at least 4" thick it probably isn't.
Mike
-
1
-
-
I recently had indicating problems with my fuel gauge and it all came down to ensuring good earths, both at the sender and at the gauge. Problem solved.
Mike
-
So what was the result, Ralph? Please don't leave us in suspense!
Mike
-
I'm looking for a side mounted rain canopy for a 110 to mount on a roof rack that will roll-up when not in use and can be expanded to cover a reasonable area when required. Looking at most of what is advertised, a tarp and a couple of poles doesn't cut it! So, any suggestions, please?
Mike
-
Yes, it is more tricky. My workshop has a metal roof, metal walls and a metal door, so it is pretty effectively insulated from my house wi-fi system. Here, in Canada, UK mobile phone and internet prices are only something we can dream about. My mobile phone costs ~C$83 (GBP50) monthly which gives me more minutes than I ever use, perhaps 1000 minutes per month, and I don't know how much internet! Monthly I seem to use a total of ~300 minutes that include incoming and outgoing calls, and virtually zero internet usage, but there's no option for a cheaper package. Costs are so high because the three mobile phone/internet providers try to provide coverage over a huge area. Canada is approximately 40X the area of UK, although much of it is virtually unpopulated, and less than half the population. Even providing cover along major highways is a challenge because distances between major centres are huge - - 10 hours driving for us to Calgary or to Vancouver, and 4 or 5 hours to our nearest equivalent to B&Q.
Anyway, these are some of the prices I pay to live in Canada, and they are well worth it! Having lived in UK and a number of other European and Asian countries, there is no place I'd rather live. Apologies for the diatribe, I'll get my snowshoes and leave!
Mike
-
I remember looking superficially at the site some years ago for electrical info, but since it didn't cover the year of my vehicle - 1991 - I haven't revisited. I've obviously been missing out on a great resource and it's lining up to be my go-to reference library. The advantage, for me, of the LR catalogue is that it is a *.pdf file, so I can access it on my workshop computer where I don't have internet. I can see that I'll be making more frequent visits to the house to clarify issues. Thank you, again, for re-introducing me to this site.
Mike
Dash warning panel bulb holders
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
For various reasons, mainly our house incoming capacity, the shop is on its own supply via a transformer on a local utility pole. I assume that prevent use of powerline connectors, but please tell me I'm wrong.
Mike