Troll Hunter

Can anybody tell me if an Adwest four-bolt power steering box can replace a Gemmer six-bolt power steering box on a Defender 110? Many thanks. Mike

The idea of filtering power steering fluid is intriguing, and the integrated spin-on filter and reservoir is a neat solution. However, I think my "poor man's" variation has some merit. I've got a rare earth magnet suspended from the dip stick, which is a part of the reservoir lid, which I clean every few months. The fluid leaves the usual pink stain on white tissue, but when I wipe the magnet a grey smear is left. I assume this is the debris that the magnet has removed from the circulating fluid. My fluid never has the "metallic" look mentioned by Dave. Admittedly, only steel debris will be captured, but the wearing components are mainly steel, so most debris should end up on the magnet. So, that's my low cost attempt to protect my steering pump components. Mike

Thanks for all your input and advice. I separated the turbo from the manifold and found that the turbo blades are almost non-existent . I've obviously overcooked them, which also explains why the boost pressure is not what it used to be - now about 3 psi max . So, I'll not explore any failed oil seal, but am ordering a replacement turbo. But, here's the problem: Paddocks give the part no. as ERR4802, which is shown in the LR parts catalogue as including the exhaust manifold, but PS confirm is only the turbo, and they show the same part number for a number of LR models. So far, no problem. While looking for an alternative/closer supplier - I'm in BC, Canada, I found this site, although its not closer: http://www.dieselevante.it/turbochargers.asp?idmarca=111&idcat=2 They list several different Garrett models in the T250-04 range, including two for the same year: Applications</B>MarkModelYearTypeH.p.EngineFamily TurboTurbo CodeO.E.M Turbo Code PASSENGER CARSLANDROVERDEFENDER19992.5/4GEMINI IIIT250-04452055-0008PMF100510 Enquiries ›PASSENGER CARSLANDROVERDEFENDER19992.5/4GEMINI IIIT250-04452055-0007ERR4893 Enquiries A local Garrett agent, in Canada, advised me that Garrett had confirmed that the correct model no. for a 300Tdi Defender is 452055-5004S , and their "discounted" price converted to ~£800 . So, what's the deal with PS offering the same unit, ERR4802, for all these options? Or are the details at the above web site incorrect? Or is Garrett info suspect? Any guidance will be very much appreciated, please, and thanks in advance. Mike

Many thanks for the advise on removing the injectors, and for confirmation that the turbo and exhaust manifold can, in fact, be separated. What, though, is "the normal way" of separating these? I have soaked them in WD40 for 24 hours and have gently tapped the alloy side with a soft hammer, but cannot get any movement, and I'm reluctant to go up 10 on the hammer scale! Do I just need to let them soak in WD40 for longer? Thanks, also, for the advice about EGR. Mine is removed, but reading the current thread about crankcase breathers and oil separation has identified that the marmite in my intake system may not be coming from the turbo lube system, but from crankcase oil carryover. Next step is to do a comprssion test, and see if there is any indication of imminent failure there. Regards, all, Mike

Disco_al, That's what I thought, but Paddocks have just confirmed that they supply the turbo only, without the exhaust manifold. Must admit, though, they didn't have one in stock, so they couldn't eyeball a unit. They could be wrong!! Also, any tips for removal of the injectors, once the retaining plates have been removed, please? Mine seem to be obstinately "welded" to the engine. Mike

The oil seal between the bearing and the air compressor side of my turbo has failed - masses of marmite in intercooler and inlet manifold . I've confirmed that the oil return hose is not blocked. The LR parts manual shows the exhaust manifold and the turbo itself to be a single unit, Part No. ERR4802, but Paddock spares supply a replacement turbo, but without the exhaust manifold . Can somebody tell me how to separate my existing turbo from the exhaust manifold, please, since I'll have to do this even if I get the old one overhauled. Many thanks for all suggestions. Mike

Hi, All, and a very merry Christmas to you. At last, I've completed installation of my new front diff. Installation out in the snow, at -10 degrees isn't a totally irresistible attraction, which is why it's taken me so long to complete. As suggested by ashtrans, and supported by Paddocks, who had been monitoring the thread, I gave it a very good internal cleaning with kerosene, and I mean very good, and then drained and dried it all before soaking all bearings in oil. I'm amazed at how much apparent bad bearing signs were caused by very small fibres of packing material. I'm talking about fibres of paper and of corrugated cardboard, not of wood or metal. Before installation the unit would rotate smoothly, but the preload meant it still required significant force. However, it's now in, and although I haven't done significant mileage, all appears to be well. So, many thanks to all who provided input, and particularly to Les Hensen for his excellent threads on both front diff replacement and stub axle rebuild. Now, I'm off to my Chrisie dinner! Mike

cipx2, Many thanks for such a quick reply with the numbers. All the best. Mike

Can somebody please give me a manufacturer's part no for this. It's LR part no. is 606666, but my local factor cannot cross reference it. Many thanks. Mike

Hi, Many thanks to you all for such quick replies. I've spoken to Paddocks and sent them photos, and am awaiting their verdict before doing anything. Your comments, Dave, about the "orca" paste could be spot-on. I've very carefully explored the rust on the crown wheel, and it doesn't appear to be dry powder, as I'd expect rust to be, so it may well be the remnants of their set-up paste. I'll see what Paddock say on Monday, and proceed from there. I don't want to invalidate any warranty, and returning it would be a right PITA! Mike

Hi, I've just opened my replacement diff - Paddock rebuilt unit - which was packed superbly and arrived with zero damage. However, when I got it out of the packing, I had several surprises: - about half the crown wheel diameter is covered with light rust on the teeth, also the pinion teeth, as if they had been standing partly submerged in water, perhaps in the diff case - see attached pdf New diff.pdffile; - the prop shaft flange also has light surface rust, again, as if left out in the weather for some time. - there was not a trace of any protective oil film on any of the components, internally or externally. None of this would be particularly worrying, except that I can only just turn the prop shaft flange by hand. It is very, very stiff, and it feels as if the bearings are a bag of old bolts! Please can somebody give me some guidance? - Is this the condition that I should expect? - Should this unit have been rebuilt and set up to original tolerances and torques? - Will a good dose of oil free up the shaft and smooth the currently rough bearings? - Should I consider a strip and rebuild of this unit, to ensure that bearings and tolerances, etc., are all good? Since I'm in the middle of BC, Canada, I can't just pop down the road to my local LR specialist. The nearest one is about 12 hours drive away, so any advice and opinions will be very much appreciated. Many thanks. Mike

I've got Bearmach HD (Blue) on the rear of my 110, and over 18,000km, heavily loaded, they have been brill. With no load on they're a bit stiff but certainly acceptable. Mike

This is really for those of us who need spares shipped from UK, although it could also be a money saver within UK. I've just ordered parts from Paddock, who quoted GBP138 for shipment by UPS. I signed up to this lot: http://www.interparcel.com and they quoted GBP107 for a 2 - 4 day home delivery. A significant saving! . And guess who the courier is? UPS! Mike

Many thanks, Maverik and Western, for both the LR and Garrett part numbers. I can now see about getting mine o/hauled. When you're making enquiries, it helps if you know what bit of kit you're talking about especially this side of the world, where a Defender is "another Jeep". Mike

I've read just about all the forum threads on turbos, but cannot find a reference for the manufacturer's model number for the 300 Tdi turbo. I gather that it is a Garrett turbo, but I cannot find any tab/identification/model no. of any kind on my unit. Please, can somebody confirm that it is a Garrett, and what model number it is. Many thanks, in anticipation of somebody knowing their way around this maze. Mike

I've had a set of GG AT2 265/75R16 (Paddocks) and have been very satisfied with them. They're on 8" rims (Paddocks) and with wheel spacers (Paddocks) they significantly improve the turning circle of my 110. With 18,000 km, all on tarmac, they have worn about 3mm. I haven't had them on snow yet, but expect to very soon! Mike

Many thanks, FridgeFreezer and cipx2, for clarifying the numbers confusion, and thanks, Western, for bringing crowndiffs to my attention. Their web site is a wealth of differential information! I'm now well on my way to getting a replacement for my front axle. Mike

Please can somebody who is familiar with Defender 110 differentials help me with part numbers? I have suffered a total front differential failure, with broken cross shaft, broken planet wheel, damaged differential case, damaged crown wheel, etc., and I am having difficulty identifying the correct replacement diff assembly to order. The Land Rover 90/110 Parts Catalogue, RTC9932CE, published in August 1994, indicates the following part numbers for the differential assembly: FTC782N Up to VIN JA917433 (Note: FTC782N replaces FRC8521) FTC2750 From VIN JA917434 However, the Paddock Spares parts listing indicates FTC2750 up to KA930455. This information is in total disagreement with the LR Parts Catalogue, but when I queried Paddock their response was: "We can quote you for FTC2750- £195.00GBP. (recon) This should be the correct number as it has superseded from FTC782." My vehicle details are: Vehicle: 1991 110 CSW with LHS (Left Hand Steering) VIN: SALLDHMV8HA905197 Front Axle No. 21L43395A Half shafts are 10 spline at the differential and 32 spline at the CV. CVs appear to be the later type, RTC6862 Firstly, is the Paddock response, that FTC2750 has superseded FTC782N, correct? Secondly, if the Paddock response is not correct, which is the correct diff assembly for my vehicle? Thanks, in anticipation, for any clarification on the correct part numbers, which will be very greatly appreciated. Mike

Jim, Thanks for the update, and I'll keep checking back on this thread to monitor your progress. I've just arrived in BC, Canada, from UK, and am still busily settling in to my new home, so all things Landy are taking a back seat for the time being. Added to which, I popped a front half shaft last Saturday, pulling some logs about on the property. New one on order, but will be about 10 days. Eventually, I'll get round to fitting my WI kit, and I'm hoping for improvements similar to those shown on the Peugeot MPV - see link. Mike

Cret, I've just come across this thread, and have read it with great interest. Have you actually got it up and running yet, and if so, what's your reaction? I'm intending to fit WI on my 300Tdi Defender. I've had the kit for some time, but have not had the opportunity to fit it yet. I got it from the guys at this link: http://www.alcohol-injection.com/forum/install-pics/1997-mazda-mpv-2-5l-tdi-1382.html This is about WI fitted to a Peugeot 2.5 diesel, and includes dynamometer results. Very impressive. I subsequently contacted the author, and he confirmed that he had not altered the injection pump in any way to get the "with WI" results. When I get around to fitting mine, I'll post the results. Mike

Please can somebody with far more engine knowledge than me give a pointer to the cause of clouds of blue smoke from my 300 Tdi when I first start it? After running for about ten minutes it disappears - the engine is warm by then - and doesn't reappear all day, unless I park up for a couple of hours, and the engine cols down significantly. This only started last Wednesday morning. Before that there had never been any blue smoke. The oil level appears to be constant, and I've done about 2500 kms since the first blue smoke. Many thanks for any ideas. Mike

Gelf, Many thanks. Mike

Gwyn Lewis may be a great guy, give good service , and all the other things that so many businesses fail in , but I'm sure that he'd really appreciate your comments a helluva lot more if you actually told the rest of the world who he is! For those of us who don't know Gwyn Lewis, can somebody, please, post a link, give a business name, or some other means for all of us to be able to take advantage of his good services. I, also, am fed up with giving money to so called "experts" in the "service free zone". Many thanks. Mike

Richard, Thanks for your points about USB connection versus Bluetooth, and GPSgate. That looks interesting. I've already got a Tom Tom 500, a few years old now, which I was planning on using for on-road, but I may rethink my plans. Do you know if an equivalent full map and database package is available from anyone, so that I could have the functionality of the Tom Tom, for route planning and finding addresses, without needing their hardware? My GPS receiver is going to be a WSG-1000 from www.wintec.com. I don't know yet where that'll be mounted. I've been using one of their earlier models, both in car and within the aluminium body of a commercial helicopter, and it works well in both. I've just received this new one, and it's brill - at least, I think so . Wintec are also developing a CBB (Car Black Box) which is on their website, but isn't available for sale yet. This promises to be a great vehicle tracking device for security use. If it becomes available within the next few months I may just get it. Mike