Les Henson
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Posts posted by Les Henson
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Set the crank and the cam on their respective timing marks and adjust the pump sprocket. Bear in mind that the sprocket retaining bolts must not be at one end or the other in their slots.
Les
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Different rivets in different places I'm afraid. Rear body capping is held on by what look like ordinary flat head rivets (78410), as are the rear corners, etc. The only place I can see where round head rivets (302222), are used is around the door handle. This from a quick look in the S3 parts catalogue.
Les
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Two chains on this engine - Crank to injector pump and injector pump to camshaft. Timing is set by aligning bright links on the lower chain itself. Crank has a timing pip on it as does the injector pump sprocket 1 bright link is set on the crank sprocket, and the other on the injector pump sprocket. That's the lower half of the engine timing set. The upper chain has no bright links, but the timing of the camshaft has to be set with a special setting tool. The tensioner has to be compressed as well while the chain is reattached. The timing must be spot on, or there will very expensive damage as soon as you turn the key.
Les
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Add some K-seal to the cooling system. It's perfect for this type of leak and will effect a permanent repair. I've used it many times and it's never failed.
Les.
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I've only ever used Bearmach kits and the crank sprocket is the one piece type. I guess you would have to ask the supplier. It's ok to use the old stud, but use a new nut (nyloc).
Les
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Any idea why it won't run? It would make a big difference to the selling price if it'll start and drive. If it's historical status, then that will make it more valuable as well. S3 parts are still relatively cheap and available, so that's a good point as well.
Les
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'water comes out of the bottom of the engine'
Water can only leak down the back of the engine (under the inlet manifold), or the 'front' (drivers side where the timing belt is). 3 things on the back of the engine. Inlet manifold gasket where the small bleed off pipe is, The thermostat housing, which is held in place by 3 8mm head bolts the thermostat has a rubber ring around it's edge to make a seal when the 3 bolts are tightened. There is then a large steel pipe that curves round from by the battery, round the back of the engine, and then is a push fit onto the thermostat housing (being then held in place by 2 x 10mm head bolts into the block). A seal is affected by an O-ring on the housing. It's also possible that a lack of anti-freeze in it's life has caused the steel pipe to corrode through. The water pump is driven by the timing belt, so any water coming out of the timing cover at the bottom would indicate water pump failure. Be careful of this as the water pump bearing will deteriorate and may throw the timing belt off - causing damage to some or possibly all of the valves (the K-series engine is known as an interference engine). Overheating is not a typical symptom of head gasket failure on your engine (water in the oil is, which is known as emulsion). The correct repair is check for liner protrusion, skim the head, then a head gasket repair kit, which comprises of an MLS head gasket, head saver, and 2 steel locating dowls. Head bolts can be re-used as long as they are within spec, but a new set isn't expensive. Tightening predure is important - set all at 20nm, 180 deg, and then 180 deg again. Some gasket manufacturers recommend 90 deg x 4, but I refer to Autodata for my specifications.If it's gushing out, I would suggest that the thermostat has been fitted incorrectly. It is a bit of a bugger to locate properly even with the manifold out of the way.
Les
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Adwest are the best. I think they actually remanufacture their steering boxes as opposed to re-con, which can mean anything from giving it a good clean, to replacing seals on a unit that still retains the worn output shaft.
Les.
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Not to mention the fact that flames coming out of an exhaust on a public road is teensy bit illegal
Les
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You can get a good guess at bore wear by looking at the step at the top of each bore. There's a narrow ring that is the distance between the top piston ring and the top of the bore. Clean any carbon off before looking. Bores tend to wear slightly oval as well, and to check that and ring gap, you need a new ring and push it about a 3rd of the way down the bore with a piston (to ensure it's dead square). You then can check bore ovality by looking for a gap between the edge of the ring and the bore. Also measure the ring gap to see if it's within specs. If the bore isn't too badly worn, then oversize pistons and the bores machined to match them would be a cheaper option, and you would in effect have factory compression restored.
Les.
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How to remove a TD5 Disco fuel tank -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23450Les.
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If you're only changing the engine and keeping the original transmission, then props will be the same. At a guess I would say that alternators may well be different, as a petrol engine has a higher electrical demand (to power the ignition system). You can quite easily find out by comparing the part numbers.
Les.
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I always fill a new filter on diesels. If you don't - that's an awful lot of air to get out of the system.
Les
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The vehicle in question was a very shiny and smart dark blue de cat TD5 blue 90 with a white Roof and aftermarket alloys of the terrafirma variety with BFG all terrains. Reg number as we clocked it back is **** NWA and pictured below.
I don't know if as a member of jolly public I can look up where this machine is registered, I'm sure there must be a way for those who want to mind?
That's just so wrong.
Les
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Sometimes they nick it, then burn it out to remove evidence
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Engine continuing to run - There's a fuel cut-off switch on the back of the injector pump. It's actually a small solenoid and what happens when you turn the ignition on is that a plunger is retracted and allows fuel flow. When you turn the ignition off, the plunger goes forward and the fuel flow is stopped, which then cuts the engine out. There's only a single wire to the switch, so a simple check can be made to determine if it is constantly powered with the ignition off. In your check - if the power is on with the ignition on, and off when the ignition is off, then the switch is faulty. If you take the switch out, then three components - switch body, spring, and plunger.
Les
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Try your local motor factors. They quite often are cheaper than Halfords.
Les
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Ignition barrel shouldn't get hot. You may have a poor connection in there which may be your problem. Strange that if this is the case that it's ok when you jump it.
Les
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jump start will only get your engine running and maybe prove that your alternator and/or battery has enough power to keep it running. If you accidentally leave your lights (or whatever) on, then your battery is fine, other than being flat. A jump start will start the engine, but the battery is not at fault and only needs charging.
Les
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Could be that the battery is being drained by an electrical fault (alternator usually). To test this - charge the battery, check it starts the engine, then disconnect. Next morning, reconnect and see if the engine starts. If so, then it's not the battery. Starter motors usually have 4 brushes which don't wear evenly, and as 1 or 2 brushes fail, then the motor won't spin quickly enough to start the engine, but a boost will do it. You could fit a new battery and for a while the starter will work ok and start the engine, but eventually the starter will fail completely. You can check the battery by doing what is known as a drop test. Connect a volt meter to the battery (should be between 11.5 and 12.2 V). Turn the key and the reading shouldn't drop lower than 10V. Once the engine is running, the reading across the battery terminals should be 13.4 V or a little more. Not sure what engine you have, but generally, once the engine is running you can disconnect the battery briefly and it will continue to run (alternator test). Just a process of elimination really.
Les
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Poor casting (which won't generally get any worse), and corrosion. Probably due to a lack of anti freeze in the past. People tend to think that all it does is stop the coolant from freezing in the winter, but in fact it helps the engine to run cooler in the warmer weather and is also a corrosion inhibitor.
Les
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Engine laquer is a good paint to use.
Les.
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The 300TDi engine that I rebuilt had been boiled and fried (seized pistons and warped/cracked head) . It had also been sat outside with just a bit of old carpet over it for a few months. The cam and crank were probably the only parts that were still fine.
Les.
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ATF does nothing - you might be thinking of brake fluid, as in PAS leaks? You could use one shot, but then you still have to remove/allow to leak out, the EP80/90
Les
300tdi - Thick grey smoke from exhaust?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Smell the smoke. Does it smell of diesel (stings the nose), burning oil (tends to be blue or black), or steam (you will be having to top up the coolant on a regular basis).
Les