Les Henson
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Posts posted by Les Henson
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I've heard of this in the past, and as far as I remember this was down to a cracked head. Is this the only thing that can cause this, or could injector seals leaking also do it?
Thanks.
Les
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300TDi never had railko, so swivel bearings should both be taper roller bearings. That's assuming you have the original axle. Not sure if early 90/110/Disco 1 axles will fit, but you can tell if you have the railko top bearing without taking anything apart other that a front wheel off. Pin diameters are different for railko and taper roller, and you can tell by just looking at the top pin while it's still in place.
Les
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No longer on here, that's all
Les
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'i was just about to ask the same!' Not dead (I hope), just no longer on here.
Les
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Check your PAS steel pipes - they are a bit prone to corroding and leaking.
Les.
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Only thing near your leak is the front diff - oil is light brown. PAS fluid for your vehicle is ATF Dextron IID or III. I've never seen PAS fluid that wasn't red
Les
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Practice a lot, but doing it on the bench is far different from lying on your back and doing it. Short bursts will help prevent blowing holes. Clean metal, good earth contact, will make a big difference.
Les
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Are the bearing tracks a tight fit in the hub assembly - did you have to drift them in as opposed to them 'falling in'? Are the bearing races a snug fit on the stub axle. I've experienced this problem on a Transit and it was the hub that was at fault (poor quality material).
Les
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No way is that a S3 - shortened RR chassis, and 90 bodywork, TDi engine, etc.I suspect the only thing 'series 3' is the number plate and possibly stamped-on VIN/plate.
Les
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You two have been here since day one
Les
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One person that has never been mentioned on here and was an incredible help in the planning and therefore creation of this website. Mike Lamontagne was the north American Correspondant for LRE ( I was the UK administrator at that time). He gave me, and subsequently the rest of the Admin team the news that that stupid idiot - Richard Greene, was going to shut the site down as he didn't think the internet was worth the money (idiot), So this site was rapidly created, with the original admin team messaging every single member of LRE with the news and web address of this site.
Those that created this site, but are unfortunately no longer with us are White90, Geoff Beaumont, and LR90. The amount of people that duly arrived here caught us by surprise, and the site repeatedly crashed and we had to upgrade many times. The final nail in the coffin of the LRE site was undoubtably the thread entitled 'It's official - I know everything there is to know about L/R's' It rapidly degenerated into the 'Land Rover Spider' thread, which was absolutely hilarious and went on for ages. Prior to that there was the Billing free tickets scandal that were given to the Moderators, and of course the famous naughty 30 day on Salisbury Plain. I still have a Land Rover spider sticker and a naughty 30 T-shirt
Les.
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Mintex are OE spec. Excellent quality, durability, and performance. It's unlikely that the discs are the problem as they are just machined cast iron, so anti-squeal shims are probably all you need.
Les
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Salisbury is by far the strongest axle on a series. Absolute murder to rebuild, but then you probably won't need to.
Les.
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Sill is structure on a girly Disco
. If you get a tug, then try to look all innocent and ignorant of the fact that your motor is about to snap in half :)try to drive sensibly - indicate, wave politely at the old bill who are probably looking at you with distain and ready to throw the book at you. Resist the temptation to punt up the jacksy the Corsa driver that just cut you up
The easiest thing to do is borrow my dog - the old bill won't come within a mile of a German Shepherd - their own ones tend to have a bite at every opportunity Les
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Assuming that you have sufficient fluid in the system (low level introduces air in the system which can make that sound). Can only really be the pump. Detach the drive belt and feel for play in the pump. Not necessarily up and down, but wear can also mean the drive shaft will move in and out.
Les
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The quality of parts is getting more and more varied. I have on the odd occasion fitted Britpart, and have had absolute rubbish - water pump shaft came loose after a couple of weeks, rear brake cylinder that didn't have the brake pipe thread tapped, a swivel rebuild kit for a LTWT, that was so rubbish that I didn't even fit it.. But then I fitted 2 suspension bladders to a TD5 and they were genuine in the box. There's a multitude of parts suppliers and some of those are rubbish, so it's not just a L/R problem. Head gasket that was thicker at one end than the other, so leaked coolant as soon as I filled the system, Focus front wheel bearing that had so much play in it that it would fail the MOT, etc, etc. For someone like me - it means doing the job twice for the same price as doing it once. If a customer wants to supply the part/s themselves ( and this is getting more common), and I'm not familiar with the brand, then labour guarantee only.
You still can't beat buying what you know - QH, Lucas, Timken, Gates, Powertrain, Bosch, Bearmach, etc, etc
Les
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RTV can be used in some circumstances, such as diff pan, sump, etc, but not in all cases, such as manifolds, head (obviously), and anywhere that the thickness of the paper gasket is important. I've used it in places where the mating face is damaged and a new gasket won't affect a seal. RTV squeezes in and out when bolts are tightened, so the excess could at some point break free. I looked at an engine once that had the oil pick up strainer blocked with bits of RTV and the engine had siezed. People do tend to put it on like a bead of toothpaste, which is unnecessary. It should always be used sparingly.
Les
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i recently replaced the clutch on a 300TDi CSW, and while the old clutch was a wrecked Valeo set, I replaced like for like. The replacement was also valeo, and plate and cover were both marked as such. The thrust bearing I guess is just too small for any kind of marking, but as far as I know - clutches are only ever supplied in kit form (3-pieces), from the manufacturer so I would guess that the whole kit is valeo. I personally don't like Valeo, as on L/R's they tend to break - rather than wear out in my experience. Borg and Beck always seem to be more suitable.
Les.
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If the oil is clear and red, then it's probably power steering fluid.
Les
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It's my thread - White90 put it there as he was moderator at the time.
If you know you have the later type crank sprocket already (not pulley), then there's no need to replace it - even if you remove it in order to replace the seal.
I've never seen the need to replace the stud, bolt, and nut (the nut is nyloc, so can be re-used). If they're in the kit, then you might as well use them.
Les.
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Early Hippo's were known for having weak rear diffs. Ashcrofts (I think), supply tougher units. I've rebuilt a few, and it's do-able for a reasonably competent mechanic. Pinion bearings tend to wear quite badly, but the whole diff assembly is complex to rebuild, as there are several 'normal' roller bearings, plus needle rollers, seals, etc. Jack the rear wheels up, disconnect the prop, then rotate the diff flange, and feel for roughness. Diff has no drain plug, and it's glued on with RTV sealant, so be prepared for a bit of a mess
Les
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I don't know Neil. If it isn't on a SORN, then there's a whole lot of tax/fines due on it. Even if it is SORN'd - don't you have to renew it every year or something nowadays ?
Les
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17 grand for a S3! Most I ever paid for one is £250
Les.
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Last tax expired 2001, so it was untaxed when he brought it here originally. I've googled/ social media his name to death and nothing. All I know is that he work/ed for the Home Office. I doubt very much that he frequents any L/R website, as he's not really the type. I suppose I could apply for a V5, but that doesn't mean that I own it - just that I would then be the registered keeper, and be responsible for tax/MOT/etc.
Les
TD5 fuel in the sump
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Eh ??
Les