Les Henson
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Posts posted by Les Henson
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Looks ok to me. The only worry would be if there were bits of metal stuck to it - rather than particles.
Les
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A picture if possible would be a great help pigster.
Les
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"water tight" LOL - you'll be lucky
If the one piece ones are fitted correctly, then they should be fine. Original are several bits, so leaks at joins is common.Les.
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Altering a defender (110) axle to fit a series chassis/leaf springs.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40996
Les.
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The spindle that the wipers are connected to might be seizing up. They can be dismantled, cleaned, and greased. Otherwise the motor brushes may be excessively worn and therefore making the motor weak.
Les.
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When you turn the ignition key the cog on the starter is thrown outwards and engages with the teeth of the flywheel. At the same time the starter main body receives power directly from the battery and spins the engine, which then starts (or at least it should do
)Les
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Measuring piston protrusion
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=24508. If the deck hasn't been skimmed, the pistons are not replaced, crank, conrods, bearings, are the same, then you won't need to do this. The holes in a head gasket denote the thickness, and the difference is .10mm. Standard thickness is usually 2 holes, so replace like for like. With regards to a new head - if you have put new valves or your old ones in it (lapping the old ones in), then you need to measure valve stand down as well.
As for types of head gaskets - there are quite a few and correct fitting of whatever you have (and it's make), are the most important thing.
The reality is that you can fit a gasket that's a notch higher or lower than the original, use old head bolts that you probably shouldn't, bung any old head on. The difference between spending ages doing it by the book, and doing the best you can is negligible - as the engine will start and purr like a kitten
.Les
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I prefer to use mls gaskets. The head is new, so will be dead flat and as long as you cleaned the deck properly there should be no problems.
Les
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Can you not do it yourself? I've rebuilt one myself and it was as good as new when it was finished. There's not that many special tools required to do it, and specialist engineering isn't that expensive. The pics you posted are god awful - more like an engine you just bought from a scrapyard.
Les.
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The logo is correct, but I've never seen one that big.
Love the dumb ironLes
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During the many years I've been repairing cars there has been the inevitable mishap.
Customer parked his car and asked me to listen to a funny noise from the engine. Unknown to me he had left it in 1st gear as the handbrake was iffy. I reached in through the window and turned the key. The car shot forward and smacked into the wall.
Customer needed a tow start, and as he has done it before, I agreed to tow him. Set off, got to about 15mph, when he dumped the clutch in 2nd, and rammed into the back of me.
I've actually seen a guy trying to re-fit the gearbox on a 200 TDi 110 - mostly with kitchen implements.
Worst on a Land Rover was my 1st 109. The drivers side chassis rail was badly corroded, so I spent the day removing the floor, cleaning up, and cutting about 18" of chassis rail at the side of the gearbox. The next day I measured, up, made a new chassis repair section, welded it in place, then plated over the welds for additional strength. Put it all back together and stood back - only to then realise that the chassis had sagged overnight and the drivers side was now banana shaped.
Les
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I recently replaced the clutch in V8 Freaks TD5 90. I put the entire vehicle back together before discovering that I'd put the clutch plate on the wrong way round
Les.
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I think the clip is only there to keep the fork/thrust bearing together for reassembly. If the fork is located correctly at the time the gearbox is fitted, then it's not going to come off as there's never enough clearance for it to do that.
Les
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All that's stopping the shaft from coming out is a thin ring which expands slightly when the shaft is fitted to prevent it coming back out and leaking diff oil. Sometimes the shaft easily pops out, and sometimes it's a right swine. The best way of removing them is a sharp tug or if possible, a sharp bang on a pry bar or similar. Push the shaft against the diff, and tug quickly outwards and it should come out.
Les.
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I find it easier to lie flat on my back and use knees and arms to fit a transfer box. It also helps to make some locating pins - 150mm high tensile M10 coarse thread bolts with the heads cut off and rounded. Locate the transfer box on the pins and slide it into place.
Les.
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I tried the car battery/jump leads/ battery core to try and weld an exhaust some years ago. All I managed to achieve was to blow a damn-great hole in it
Les
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Tightening head bolts is always the same sequence - centre outwards in a diagonal pattern. No sealant of any type on it. Tightening torque/angle/deg will be the same.
Les
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Blank the end of the tube with a bolt or something similar, then make a slit in it near the end with a razor blade, stanley knife, etc. The slit will act as a valve and no air will be drawn back.
Les
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The price to recon is rather excessive, as they don't know if they are faulty and what needs doing to correct them. TDi injectors are totally mechanical, so wear/parts will be minimal and therefore unpredictable. If they are worn/weak, then usually adjustment is sufficient to correct them. I've never yet had to have injector parts replaced. The company I use here in Swindon test them while you are there and not only advise you of their condition, but also the total price to get them within spec. I've even just been asked to put a couple of quid in the 'coffee tin' as payment
Les.
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Purge only goes as far as the injector pump, so there will be a lot of air still in the system. That may be all that the problem is. Starting it on the battery can take ages and it's common to flatten it. Ignition on and get someone to tow you up and down the road in second gear. That usually works.
Les.
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You can take a starter apart, and to some extent the solenoid as well. Sometimes it's just sticking and a clean and reassemble is all it needs. Otherwise a quick search will find companies that sell parts for starters, alternators, etc.
Les
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Been a while since I did one, but if I remember right I disconnected the shock absorber and with the increased drop I was able to get straight onto the bolt head with an extension through the spring coil. You can also put a bar on the bolt head and give a good few hard whacks with a hammer. This sometimes helps to undo stubborn bolts. Be careful not to deform the head though as the socket may not go on. The socket has to be a perfect tight fit on the bolt as otherwise it may round off, which then becomes a nightmare.
Les
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The first time I did it I missed the reverse gear slot and didn't notice until I had put it all back together and tried to reverse off the drive. That was a little bit annoying
Les
If the one piece ones are fitted correctly, then they should be fine. Original are several bits, so leaks at joins is common.
2.5 NA Diesel Pump Help Please!!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
If there's any air left in the system - especially the injector pump, injector pipes, or injectors themselves, then it can take a few flat batteries to get the engine to start on the key. With older diesels it's far easier to get a tow start if you can.
Les.