Les Henson
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Posts posted by Les Henson
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Sent off for the log book. If I get it, then I'll flog it and take the consequences of doing that.
Les
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I wouldn't say that it's going to be the lift pump. As long as no air has been introduced into the fuel system, then the engine starts and runs fine, with no real difference apart from at higher revs, when the engine feels like it's holding back. Check basic things, such as fuel filter.
Les
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According to them, John Craddock is the worlds No1 series 1 Land Rover expert. I don't think so
That title surely belongs to James Taylor.
Les
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You could e-mail or ring the supplier I suppose, but I have heard of people receiving britpart when they have specifically said not to. I guess the supplier hopes that you'll just shrug your shoulders and fit it anyway.
Les.
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You don't really need to bleed the system. Turn the steering to full lock and hold it there for a few seconds, then turn to opposite lock and hold it again for a few seconds. Because the system is both high and low pressure it should bleed itself. If you are unsuccessful, then bleeding is done inside the wheel arch with the plastic cover removed and with the engine running.
Les.
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I use the original shim steel gasket, but put a thin film of rtv on either side of it. Once the timing chest is back on - tightening the bolts up around the P gasket first helps as well.
Les.
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No - the diaphragm is split. If you split the servo, you'll almost certainly damage it, and as far as I'm aware you can't get parts for it anyway.
Les.
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That is one disgusting vehicle. He should do everyone with eyesight a favour and set fire to it.
Les
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Wikkid, bad, kewel, etc
Les.
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I need the part number for the rear passenger side brake light/reverse light on the 'bumper' assembly (body and lens) please. C'mon Ralph - it's not like you're in church or anything
Les
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Don't use anything abrasive to clean up anything that relies on a bearing to be a snug fit - you will quite possibly make things worse. Without the right tool, needle rollers are notoriously difficult to fit, as the cage that retains the rollers is very fragile, so knocking/drifting it in may cause the rollers to come out. To minimise that risk, put the stub axle in an oven and the bearing in the freezer. The diameter of the bearing seat will increase, whereas the needle bearing will shrink. This makes it far easier to fit the bearing - more like pushing it in, rather than pressing or knocking.
Les.
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Just the one bolt won't make much difference. Just make sure that RTV squeezes out where the broken bolt is, and put a blob in the hole as well. As long as the surfaces are clean and dry there should be a decent seal once the sealant is cured.
Les.
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Corrosion of one or more of the pistons mean that they stick and can cause pulling to one side. You can check this by detaching it, pressing the pedal a couple of times and looking at the exposed part of the pistons, as in this picture -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/uploads/1131991407/med_gallery_2_8_145016.jpg
You can rebuild your calipers for about £40, but you should consider if you are confident and able enough to do it. If you have to brake, then it's because you have to, so working on a braking system must always be right.
Thread here on how to do that -
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2851
There are other things that can cause unbalaced braking, such as old brake hoses, warped disc.
Les
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Bottom pin retaining bolts are sometimes difficult to remove/shear off, which is why I don't replace it unless necessary.
Les
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I don't think it really matters as there's no oil in there, and it's only there to complete a seal between the crank nose and timing cover.
Les
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Are you certain that the plate is the right way round?, this can make a significant difference. Small variations in plate thickness make little difference on mechanical or hydraulic systems, as that is pretty-much compensated for either automatically with a hydraulic system or adjustment on a mechanical system. LUK clutches are OE spec, and are good quality. I wouldn't recommend just changing the plate though.
Les
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Just get some from a local motor factors, as long as it's suitable for fuel delivery. Usually about a quid per foot (30cm). Low pressure before the injector pump, so don't tighten anything mental.
The above price doesn't include buying it from Halfords, as not only will the spotty nerk that serves not know what you are talking about, but in the unlikely event that he manages, it'll be double that because it'll be bright blue, green, red, orange, etc, and have MAX POWER printed on it.
Les.
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If I remember correctly, 8mm ID fuel hose and decent quality jubilee clips will do it.
Les.
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I had to fix the under bonnet fuel system on a TD4 last year. There's a valve thingy that diverts fuel to the cooler - dependent on fuel temperature. Enquiries revealed that you can't buy a part of the under bonnet fuel system, which is pretty much everything and was eye-wateringly expensive. In the end I went to a L/R breakers in Glos, and bought the valve for £25. 3 jubilee clips later and it was fixed.
The info was from the local Main dealer, and they said that was all that's available. Might be different from other sources though.
Les.
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The vehicle is on my property with my consent. The original arrangement was that I repaired it (and was paid for that). He said he has a house in France and wants to take it over there as he believed he would get more money for it, and he asked if he could leave it here until such time as he could take it. I agreed - thinking at the time this wouldn't be very long. Last time I saw him was early last year (over a year ago), when he told me he was arranging a recovery to an MOT station. He also asked me if I would do the work should it fail the MOT, to which I said no, as I just wanted it gone. I've spoken to the police, and as there is no crime, then they can't/won't help. I've even e-mailed the local council abandoned vehicles officer, and as it's not on the road, he can't help either. I don't really want to speak to a solicitor, as the cost may not be recoverable. I could keep the vehicle until he pays me (lien), but that kinda defeats the object, and I may well be back to square one. Someone on Facebook located a company that's supposedly owned by his son, so I rang and spoke to a secretary who said she would pass my info on, but over a week now and nothing from there.
Les
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70+ mpg 2.25 diesel is possible!
So it's actually a 1.5 diesel
Les
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It looks like someone has used the wrong adhesive on the crank bolt thread as a breaker bar on it usually does the job. Locking the flywheel is normally effective, but excessive force may damage it and replacing the ring gear involves a lot of work. Heat will have no effect at all - oil seal damage is all that you can expect, which is no big deal as it can easily be replaced, but heat soak will prevent much else from happening. Try putting the breaker bar a few inches away from the chassis, so when you turn the key it has some momentum before it all locks up. This can sometimes make a difference.
Les
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Thanks reb78
Les
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Fill the hole with grease. If the pump leaks it'll still let water out, but will prevent dirt from getting in.
Les
110 - transfer box removal..
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I removed the floor plate in order to disconnect the linkages. If you can do that without removing it, then fine. Fiddly though I would imagine.
Les