Les Henson

[ LR4x4.com ] [The only website you need.] Les.

Why? Les

No. As long as it's entertaining drivel, then yes! Les.

Try re-starting your pc. If you don't get the usual 'unable to find server', or 'the page cannot be displayed', then it's possible it's just a hiccup. I just tried, and got in no problem. Les.

Drilled, slotted, AND gold plated! Bling, but they do look nice. Welcome to the forum Nadim. Any chance of a pic or two of your truck?? Les.

I need the TD engine parts section if that's possible please anybody? A bit late now, but it would be handy for the future. Les.

Well Ralph is sloping off for a few days to enjoy himself (selfish bugger). So, MOG has drawn the short straw, and you all get to suffer for it! [evil cackle] It's no good complaining either, it'll fall on deaf ears! Les.

Dunno m8, go and ask them! Best take your coat with you! Les.

The problem isn't your age Fi, I think it's the fact that the Icelandic government probably won't let you in! Les

Well after too long, we are hopefully close to deciding on the logo for this website. Only slightly different from the one that you see at the top of the page, and fits well with the background. Here it is, what do you all think? There may be another which is very similar, but with a blue background. (I'll post it here soon). Background for this one is clear, and we hope to be able to supply sticky on the back for outside the vehicle, and sticky on the print face for inside a window. Opinion/suggestions are welcome. Design of both stickers was done by MOG. Les.

There is a difference in height between the two radiator/intercoolers. If you have a disco rad/intercooler, then the bottom of either the frame that holds the two will have had to be altered, or the two locating lugs on the front crossmember. The difference in height is only 28mm, but the bonnet won't close unless you lower them, so look for modifications. (been there, done that, etc) Les.

I like that idea Nige. Just a vacuum pump on a diesel, and maybe the drive shaft (or an old one) will fit in the chuck. Les.

I soooooooo need one for catflap On a serious note - wouldn't they get mucky really quickly, especially on a diesel? Every time you pull up at the lights you'd have to jump out and give it a quick rub! Les.

Ok, thanks Ralph. I'll just reassemble with thick oil. Les.

You yourself have complained in the past about people using your website to have arguments Steve. No money involved, but still abuse of the website isn't it, and quite rightly you complained about it. Same sort of thing here really. Nick obviously makes a profit out of selling his/others wares, and no doubt dead pleased thinking he can do so at zero cost. If he sold a disco and made, say, £500 profit, is it so bad to expect him to pay 10 or 20 quid to put his adverts on this website? I don't think it's at all fair that a forum member that has donated £20 because he/she belives in this site, is helping Nick to make £? and has paid bugger-all to get it. Interesting conversation though. I think too often a lot of the forum members put up with things they would be better off commenting on. Les.

'Normal' oil pumps are trochoidal(sp?) and as long as they don't have lots of wear, they just need to be greased on assembly in order to ensure a good vacuum. Series/90 etc are two meshed gears, so although a more reliable and steady supply of oil by this type of pump, the risk of it remaining dry is more of a possibility. Why vaseline? couldn't I use HM or LM grease instead, they are more likely to mix with the engine oil I would have thought? Les.

I did read somewhere that if you strip and re-build an oil pump, you have to 'prime' it as it can't work straight from dry. Seeing as how the TD engine is partially dismantled I thought it wise to totally strip it right down to the block (well, you have to really). Anyway, I cleaned, stripped, and cleaned again all the components that make up the pump, and was wondering what steps, if any, I have to take when reassembling it in a few minutes! So hurry-up, what do I have to do? Les.

I take it that's a thinly-veiled smutty remark Fiona. Anyway - I'm working, working, working. Les.

This is about abuse of what's reasonable Don. There's no intention at present to have some kind of 'elite' anywhere on this website. I take your point about posts (on this thread), but this is an exception, rather than the norm, otherwise we wouldn't be having this conversation. There's obviously a problem, otherwise it wouldn't have come to light. Picking on someone for the hell of it or any other reason is not really a possibility is it? Les

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm, Nicenewshinyblingypistonsandbearingshells! Seems a shame to but them in that filthy oily engine. Les,

Well I took the pistons out this morning, and one was really bad. Glad I caught it in time as the resulting damage from it breaking might have meant the entire engine being wrecked. The bores are fine, and that's good news. Just waiting on Bearmach to deliver the new pistons and with any luck I'll have it back together today. Interestingly, the crack on the piston crown seems confined to that area and doesn't join up with the other two in the pictures. Perhaps stress caused them? The big-end shells are down to the copper on the high side, so I'll replace them while I'm at it. Who's stupid idea was it to use silicone instead of a proper sump gasket? It's bluddy murder getting the sump off without distorting the joint face. Two more pics showing the cracks on No2 piston, whicjh is the worst damage-wise. (not that it matters). Les.

I've never come across the main part of a uj breaking. The needles break up and fall out, then the roller cups get hammered until they too break and fall out. This is normally enough for the two parts of the joint to seperate, with rather noisy and damaging results. I broke the housing surrounding the uj in a front series driveshaft once - I would have thought that the uj would have snapped first as it didn't seem as beefy as the surrounding metal that did. Les.

Ok, here we go:- I didn't say you HAD to, but it's only fair that s you should, considering the use you put the forum to to sell items. Yes, you are doing people a favour by selling various parts, but what would it be like if the likes of Craddocks, Paddocks, blrs, Bearmach, etc etc etc, did the same thing? They pay to advertise and off-set it from the prices they charge, you should know that, and it's only reasonable to hope that you would do the same. Well that's just a plain stupid comment to make. Who do you think should pay for this site that you use to advertise on? You profit - you pay, how easy is that to understand? Does that matter?. If it did I would suggest you are just taking advantage of the site while it's here, albeit a temporary thing. Yes, how much money are you going to make while this website is here? LR4x4.com will be here for at least 2-years, as that is what is currently paid for in advance. Ok, that's a reasonable statement to make. So how about you don't advertise anything on here for, say, the next 6-months? If we're still here. then you can donate something. Is that ok with you? Les.

I din't say you were not wanted Nick, just for you to be reasonable. Why should someone who has donated to this website pay for you to advertise? Les.

Yes I did, but sadly well behind Astro-Al. (Care to donate to the forum fund before you never live it down?) Les