[Bonnet striker and catch for 1989 110]

I went to fit the bonnet striker and catch to my 1989 110. The bonnet would not close and after much head scratching I found that bonnet striker diameter is too big for the catch. Plus the saftey catch is too long hence the Mildly miffed angle on the bonnet.

What part numbers should I be using? Is it MRC9995 for the striker? Not sure what the saftey catch part number is.

 

[Where did you get yours from]

Nickname from time doing National Service. Soutie means salty in Afrikaans. A slang name for an English South African. As one foot in England and one in South Africa and your member hanging in the sea. My retort, was I was proud that my member was long enough to hang in the water.

[A few electrical questions]

FridgeFreezer these are the two multi meters that I have. How do I use them to test continuity and what is positive and negative?

[A few electrical questions]

Thanks for the replies. I am using the continuity test as per the photo. The gauge has a plastic casing and is digital. I have checked and I had wired in the positive feed and negative correctly. The wiring for the probe has a red wire with a blue terminal and a yellow wire with a red terminal. I have assumed the red wire is the positive. But to make sure I also wired them in the other way round. Both ways round the gauge works. I then rewired it with the probe red wire the positive plug. Still not sure which way round they go.

I have check the instructions and it does not mention the wire colour and only had a positive or negative on a black and white diagram.

[A few electrical questions]

On my 1989 rebuild I have a few questions from a non sparky like me, like should the white ignition switch positive wire read negative with my Sealey continuity tester when the ignition is off? When the ignition is on it reads positive.

Plus,  I have an exhaust gas temperature gauge which positive wire, when not connected to the ignition feed wire gives a negative reading when I test it with my continuity tester. When connected up it gives a tempreture reading. Does this look normal?

[What does this relay do?]

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like I should leave a relay in there as a spare. Any other ideas?

[What does this relay do?]

Trying to sort out the wiring on my 1989 110 that I am rebuilding.

On my heatered rear screen relay I have a wire soldered to the black pink wire. I assume that this should go to earth. Is this a correct assumption.

Looking at the wiring diagram for 4 cylinder models 1986 to 1990, there are side diagrams for the rear heated screen with relays, but the others do not match what I have. Looking at the 1991 onwards wiring diagram I can match 4 of the 5 relays that I have by the fuse box. However I can't find one on the diagram. It has a white red wire, white wire, white purple and a white wire. I have a 200 tdi in the 110 and don't have twin tanks. What is this relay for?

[Clutch pedal goes to floor and will not return.]

Thanks for all the suggestions. My Seal bleeder cap does not fit the clutch master cylinder so I bodged a cap and bled it. I then adjusted the pedal height. In the majority of cases it now returns. The more I pump it the better the return. I will try and bleed it it and look to put a pedal stop bolt in.

[Clutch pedal goes to floor and will not return.]

I have procured a Sealey positive brake and clutch bleeder. I will try it this weekend and let you know how I get on.

[Clutch pedal goes to floor and will not return.]

Thanks to all for the ideas. I will try and bleed it again and see how I get on.

[Clutch pedal goes to floor and will not return.]

The bleed nipple is at the top. Absolute pig to get to with a normal 11mm spanner as too little room to crack it by a quarter. I have a small 5/16 spanner that fits that I am using. I will try re-bleed it and see what happens.

Where do you by the remote bleed setup? Or do you need to get somebody to make them up for you?

[Clutch pedal goes to floor and will not return.]

It had resistance, but not as much as I expected.

[Clutch pedal goes to floor and will not return.]

I am in the process of finishing my 1989 110s restoration. In doing so I have replaced the clutch, clutch slave and master cylinder. Yesterday I used a vacuum bleeder to bleed the system. The issue is that if you press the clutch it goes to the floor and does not come back. The clutch pedal is the later clutch pedal with the centre spring into the bushes. I took off the spring, examined it to see if it was broken and replaced it. It was very easy to do. Does this mean that the spring is faulty? Or could I have install it upside-down? When pressing the clutch there is resistance and then like a snap and it pulls it to the floor.

I tried adjusting it to the 14cm off the floor and that did not make any difference. Has anybody got any idea of the what the issue is?

 

 

 

 

 

[deep sump for GKN overdrive unit - is it a J or P type?]

I am finally getting round to getting a spacer made for the overdrive to give it a deeper sump. A work colleague of mine has cad drawn the spacer and now is going to 3d print it so I can test it before I get it water blasted out of aluminum. 

To help, does anybody know what bolt size holds on the sump. The head size is 11mm and the thread pitch appears to be  1mm from the thread and tap set measuring gauge that I have. Before I start looking for m7 bolts can anybody confirm what the bolt size and thread are? 

[Prop Shaft Nut & Bolt Kit]

I use Electro South West Ltd in Bridgwater. They do not mind selling you a quantity of 1 or 2 of a nut or bolt and don't charge you the earth for the privilege.

[110 rear door rain shredder]

As I did not take enough photos in the strip down, asking where the rear door rain shredders go? Do you put the bottom lip behind the flange or in front? Trying to figure this out before derusting and painting them 

[Stub axle and hub advice]

Mick, is there anybody local who can help you? I started with zero confidence and through help from people I met on the forum did this job together as one of my first tasks on my 110. From then on it has been a downward slippery slope as I am now rebuilding her chassis up.

[Frame rebuild dimensions or blueprint]

You can get the workshop manual off amazon in the USA.

See snapshot below.

[Heated Rear Glass]

Have a look on ebay first.  I bought my pre td5 heated glass and high-level brake light from SP4x4 off ebay as it was cheaper than off their website, even before adding carriage to their website price. The same is true for their door window glass channel kits. Not sure why their website is more expensive than ebay?

[What are your Land Rover projects for 2022?]

Finish my 110 rebuild which is now going into its 10th year.

[Beam torque wrench for 300tdi cambelt]

For my 200 tdi I bought a draper beam one and the measurements started at 10 nm and went up in big lumps. So ended up buying a dial torque wrench off ebay which was ex RAF which goes up to 50 nm and has increments of 1nm. I know this does not help you, but might point you in the direction of what to buy.

[Sharing my pain -- accident last night in my 110]

The bond of the frame to the skin was mostly broken  I used a stanely knife to cut what remained.

[Sharing my pain -- accident last night in my 110]

With the bonnet, if you remove the rivets you can then slide the skin off after bending the skin away from where it butt's up to the frame.

Pictures here of my frame in primer after grit blasting and the skin.

[1989 110 reverse light plug]

Thanks, appreciate the help.

[1989 110 reverse light plug]

I am the process of putting back together my 110 after 9 years and can't find pictures of where I plug the reverse light loom in. It is the wiring loom from the back of the gearbox. The gearbox side is sorted, it is where do the two bullet connectors go on the other end?