soutie
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Posts posted by soutie
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The doors had new bottom frames welded in and I fitted new skins to them. Thanks for the advice on the rubbers. I had fitted me as without the seemed fine, but I wanted to check what difference they made and if I could still get the doors to close.
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Left hand side latch part sticking out.
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In advancing of painting my newly skinned doors I thought I better fit them to see if some fettling is required before painting. First off I noticed that I need to bend the top rear of both doors over. However what I can't get my head around is how to adjust them so the lower rear where the door lock is does not stick out. Has anybody got any tips?
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What about using the Mohs scale of mineral hardness. Talc being the softest at 1 for the standard land rover diff and diamond for the toughest at 10. Thus Ultra Build diamond class.
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Thanks for the replies. Once they have been welded I will post up pictures of what works for me.
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I am replacing all my 110 door skins with galvanised ones after repairing the frames. What tools would you recommend? The Seally door folding tool or just a set of hammers and dollies?
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Some screen shots I grabbed. Moderators please deleted if I am in breach of copy right.
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Not sure if anybody else had seen this?
Prince Philip's love for Land Rovers endured for more than 70 years
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Has anybody got photos of how ALR6250 and ALR6251 fit to the front and rear doors. These are the seals that attach to the bottom of the doors rather than on the sill.
The reason for asking is that I want to drill the holes before painting the repaired doors of mine.
Photos of two of the doors before I have them sent away for grit blasting before they are repaired and painted.
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I bought a new 110 decal for the front. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-chassis/body/decals-badges-110-130-to-(v)-ga455945_52660
Have a look here.
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Mats after a week in the barn with the old weather we have been having.
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I hope this helps. I will post up pictures next weekend to show how it looks when dry.
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Mats out for pressure washing. Even after a week the foam under the mat still had water in them. Hence the sanding marks as a heat gun seals the foam keeping the water underneath it. Once sanded used the wife hair dryer to dry the foam out. I purchased liquid latex from a well know reseller site. The bar of soap is so that the bristles on the brush do not clump.
The first photo with the latex is after the first coat. The foam soaked it up like a bath sponge. The last photo is the 3rd coat. I am now on the 5th coat and still have about 200 ml of the latex left. I will post up photos once fully dried and then fitted.
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I have found out that the thread is 1/4 BSP for anybody else who may ask.
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Western, the fuel line goes from the tank drain to the aux fuel tank like here.
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The banjo bolt above screws into the fuel tank drain. The bolt is NRC62. Does anybody know what the thread size is?
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Does anybody know what the thread size of the 110 fuel tank drain thread? This is the union that screws into that goes to my side mounted additional tank to balance the fuel between the two of them. I have put a m12 bolt next to it for comparison. The thread is finer than the m12 bolt so thinking some imperial size. The dowty washers are gone so will either have to replace these or both unions.
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Have you heard about the Tesla issue where their screen goes blank due to the flash memory being full?Not fun when you loose all dials at speed. There is talk of a class action as this is a known issue that this will happen over time as the memory becomes full and there is talk that this may force a recall and replacement of current screens.
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8 years into a restoration that is in a barn 15 minutes away from home. Hate to say this, but 2020 has been good to me as my son's rugby matches have been cancelled as well as his football which has meant I can do more work on the 110. My biggest enemy is myself and wanting things done once rather than getting the vehicle up and running knowing I will have to something again. Hopefully I shall finish her in 2021, but that is what I said in 2020. Sometimes I think the spannering is better than having a useful vehicle.
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Here is a induction heater for not so much on a well know website. Could this help? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B083FJ8ZDH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Bt66FbX5XDD2V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Reb78 I will keep you updated. I have seen that ebay sells liquid latex to make gloves and moulds. I wonder if this will be better for painting on than having to by aerosol cans of it?
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A bit of a thread resurrection here, I have this kit for a 110 but noticed while it is out of the vehicle as she is being rebuilt that the underside of the mats is foam that has not been completed sealed by the rubber. Would it be worth sealing that with a liquid rubber spray before refitting? Or what else could I use?
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I started with the rubber on the metal and then inserted the glass. The seal tool was about £10 off ebay and the hook bit that was included helped get the rubber over the glass. I then painted the plumbers lube into the filler strip void. Then inserted the filler strip through the diamond shaped head on the tool. Inserted that sideways into the void, straighted it and with the thumb pushed the end in then dragged the tool around. While pushing / dragging it round my other hand smoothed the filler strip.
Best of luck.
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I recently did mine and failed at first. This was even with the correct seal tool. On a friends recommendation I used plumber pipe lube the second time round and it was a breeze. What I used was aquaflow pipe lubricant from tool station. £6 well spent.
What is the trick to fitting rear side doors?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Rubber removed and lock fitted. The issue seems to be the space for the door is too small. Big gap at the bottom front and none at the top. While at the back hardly any space at the bottom of the vertical and lots at the top. I had to take the spacer out of the door latch for it to close. Only thing I can think of is that when replacing the rear cross member it has shunted forward every thing.
I wonder now if I can move the b pillar forward by a couple of mm to get the space needed? Any other suggestions?