soutie
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Posts posted by soutie
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With the help of a ratchet strap corners down and now test fitting a door. Note I have not tightened any of the roof bolts behind the windscreen.
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Sigi_H thanks for the tip about the front screen clamps. Took them off the frame. Had undone half the bolts on the front half of the roof. A bit of wood to help align it and now have it where can live with it. Need a friend's help to squash the corners down to get these 2 bolts in, but that is a job for next week.
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Steering column undone. Now to loosen all the roof bolts and see if I can make progress.
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Spacers in place.
Then removed. 3 on the left and 2 on the right.
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Have a look at S&P 4X4 website as they appear to have them in their kit for fixings for the rear body.
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Thanks for all the comments. I will look at taking the the spacers out on the bulkhead on the passengers side to see if that pull that side up. I put back in what I had taken out when stripping her down to the chassis. I will also not bolt everything up before test fitting the doors.
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Thanks for all the replies. Hopefully I shall get back to it this weekend.
Here you can see the overhang on the front with the gap between the windscreen and the roof on the passenger front side.
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I had friends help lift the roof on yesterday. Then put in a bolt either side of the rear door and then lifted the front to put windscreen sealer on the front seal. Lowered it and then started from the back to find the front left has a 5mm gap when finishing up. The right hand side was fine.
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How does one line up the 110 roof when refitting it? I put my roof on and then started at the back with the nuts and bolts working towards the front, however my left hand side overhands the screen by about 5mm.
Should I undo all the bolts and start from the front two corners and then the rear two corners and then work my way from front and back to the middle? Or is there any other trick to this?
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You will see the evolution of the bulkhead below from a rusted patch in the corner, welded up before galvanising, galvanised and then in high build primer.
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The bulk head has had the rusted bits cut out and hot dip galvanised. The holes are there for screws to hold a bracket. You will see that the passenger side bit where the loom goes through is black as I had this taken out before I had the bulkhead galvanised and separately galvanised and painted. I spent the previous morning waxoiling the insides of the bulkhead before using seal sealer adhesive to stick them in. Thanks for the concern about the holes.
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Thanks for the replies.
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Just come to install my vents on the bulk head and noticed how the hinges lie on the left hand and right hand side is different. Is this normal?
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Thanks for the feedback. I will clean up and pain the old metal bits and get new pipes fitted from a Hydraulic place. Question on the O rings. Are they a special material compared to o rings from a motor factor?
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If you check the part manual this is listed. I will pull the part numbers and post this evening.
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I have an 1989 110 that had a factory conversion from TD to 200 Tdi and it used the oil cooler pipes ESR1912 / ESR1913. To replace these one needs to fork out about £110 to replace both of them. Instead of paying this price are there alternative part numbers to use - or should I get the hoses renewed by a hydraulic hose place? i.e. can I use PBP500190 or ESR3690 in place of ESR1912? Or do I have to suck it up and pay the going price?
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I work for a company that makes and repairs and overhauls aircraft propellers. For our aluminum hubs bores that are worn we have them bronze sprayed and then machined. Apparently the repair is better wearing than the original aluminum. I am not sure if this is economical for the OD unit, but it might be an idea.
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I have not used them for ordering, but have used their site to get part numbers.
https://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L1&SPRACHE=EN&PAGE=
Here is the Italian page.
https://allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L1&SPRACHE=IT&PAGE=
Peter
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Have a look here to see if it is listed. I have found this website and links to suppliers quite useful. You now have to register to see some detail, but I do not see that as a pain.
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-steering
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Have a read of this.
https://jalopnik.com/mid-size-trucks-dont-need-frames-1785674405
Then make up your mind,
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I have tried the wire wheel and wire cup and they are not as effective as the flap disks. You need to have some areas where the plastic has lifted or all they do is polish the plastic.
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The way I have been getting rid of plastic on a roll cage, side bars etc. is a 40 grit flap disk on a grinder. Just make sure you wear a dust mask and eye protection.
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For those on a budget aldi have these on special at the moment.
Features- 3 drawers
- Aluminium drawer trims
- Ball bearing slides
- Side handles
- 2 lid stays
- Keyed lock
Guarantee/Warranty3 YearsI have not purchased one myself but would like comments from others who have. -
I have got the bonnet underside and frame painted and want to know before I pop rivet it where to glue the frame to the skin. Plus what adhesive to use?
Bonnet sound deadening
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I used aluminum tape to seal the edges of mine.