88 Special

79' Santana 88 Especial

Buying several to build one is ok, if they don't all have the same fault (bad engine?). I was told that the major faults would be on the list, this did not happen. So, buying is a carp shoot. There are very few LR's here in Panama, these were a gift from some International Organization to the Government of Panama. No market for second hand parts here and selling in the US would be a headache with all the new "Home Land Security" Bullsh*t restrictions. When I was at the inspection yard, there was very little interest in the LR's, (2nd hand Hi-Lux parts are like gold),so I am going to bid $400 each on the three most complete vehicle. If no one else bids, they may cosider the low bid (more than they would get at the scrap yard). They open the bid envelopes on the 5th of May. It will also cost me $200/vehicle for transporting to my home.

Thank you for all the comments. As for the Defenders, I have been looking at the prices of "error code readers/resetters" not cheap and with the freight cost on parts is more than the price of the parts. Not to mention some of the maintence procedures, what is the reason for the head torquing procedure? "X number of ft-lbs then turn X number of degrees,? Is this better than torquing to a known ft-lb in stages? I am thinking the SIII may be the better vehicle in my situation. Hi Bill, I have owned a 79 SIII Santana, swb, diesel for 5 years, my 1st LR. The first three years I rebuilt/repaired or replaced about everything. For the last couple, other than regular maintenance (oil changes, etc) it has not missed a beat. Starting to worry me.

I live in a small town in Panama, Central America. I had never seen a Defender up close until a couple weeks ago. There is a government agency selling seven 1999 Defenders 110, TD5's to the higest bidders. Base prices US$2100 -2400 (GBP1050-1200). They are non runners, and some partly disassembled. Had a look at the workshop manual and the Defenders/TD5 don't seem too DIY friendly and lots of special tools required. I would have to do all the work as the only dealer in Panama is 120 miles. Was thinking of a project, as I am getting bored waiting for my SIII to break. How many do their own work on the Defender/TD5's? or is it better to foget this project? The one missing the door has a 300 tdi disassembled in the back seat! Thank you for any comments or info.

Replaced the channel in my SIII, with aluminum channel used to make sliding shower doors. It is 1 1/2" wide. Founded the channel at a shop that fabricates aluminum windows and doors. Used some carpet padding felt to line the channel. Pic below may give a idea. Four years and no rattles!

Sorry, yours is as good as mine, I just put some new paint on top!

I use 3/32" rod (smallest available in Aguadulce) and 40 or 60 amps. I make some holes, have you tried different angles? When welding heavier steel I weld left to right with the rod at about 45-60º, on the thin stuff I use 20-30º almost paralled to the piece. Checked the door frame metal, it is .050"- 1.25mm, I put backing pieces inside the corners of the door frames and plug welded the flat strips to the profile piece. The bulkhead was .062" galvanized, and it has a few extra holes. When welding thin, I usually practice awhile on some scrap.

Thank you, and yes, with the high humidity (80-90% in the rainy season) and living a couple miles from the ocean, bare steel does not last long. Galvanized is better, and I had it on hand. Aluminum would not rust, but I am using a stick welder.

Freight prices to Panama are very high, so I rebuilt my SIII door/window frames out of 1mm galvanized. Test bend , next to old frame, Made a new handle box on the right side. New parts. Piece for the window frame Repaired door.

Have you tried here: AVM FWH Good luck.

Built a bulkhead for my SIII a couple years ago. I used 1.5 mm galvanived and a stick welder, so there are some extra drain holes!

You might want to check the reverse gate,or what ever it is called. the hinged metal flap with two springs. it may need adjusted, cleaned/lubed or new springs. It is mounted on the reverse selector shaft. Check the manual for the correct adjustment. Good luck!

Working in the mountains of Central America.

Hi Greg, There are different thickness thrust washers to adjust the end float on the primary pinion, 2nd, 3rd speed gears/bushing and the layshaft. But, the parts book only has one number for the 1st speed thrust washer. Changing this washer will not affect the end float of the first speed gear, it would change the distance the mainshaft goes through the bearing. The manual calls for .004-.008, I have between .003 and .004, I guess that will have to be close enough. Cheers!

Thank you, I guess I will torque the layshaft bolt to 55ft-lbs and use Locktite. As for the 1st speed gear, the only way I can see to get more end float is to face off the gear on the side that butts the thrust washer. I have a little more than .003, so maybe that will be good enough. It is a lot of work to change the transmissions, so I was trying to do it right the 1st time.

Hello, new forum looks good, easy on the eyes. I am rebuilding a suffix A gearbox (first trans rebuild for me) using the green LR manual and have a couple of questions: 1. In the manual on page 37-4, Bell Housing, 37.12.07, step 22, says to torque the layshaft securing bolt to 50 ft-lbs. Now if you go to page 37-9, Layshaft, 37.20.19, step 25, it says to torque the layshat securing bolt to 60ft-lbs. What is the correct torque? 2.On page 37-11, Main shaft assembly, Mainshaft, rear end, step 46 says to fit the first speed gear. Ok, in the "DATA" section on the bottomof page 37-12, it calls for ".004-.008 End float on the first speed gear". How do you adjust the First Speed Gear End Float? I have less than .004. Thank you for your comments