v8bertha

D'oh... Oh yeah! What a plank, sorry!

Errr... 3A is a bearing 😉

Excellent! I'll keep tabs on this thread and go check them out. Cheers 👍

OOOooooo... I'm in a similar situation, differnet tent manufacturer though... Who did you use in the end? Was it made to measure or a set size?

If you mean the flange that the prop bolts on to, yes, you can replace the seal without removing the diff. The trick is to count the number of turns of the bolt when taking it off as there is a crush washer in there between the bearings. Pull out the flange, replace seal, flange back in, do bolt up counting the number of turns again. I believe the crush washer preloads the tension in the bearings, so don't over tighten when doing it back up again. But I'm sure a sensible adult will be along soon if I've got that wrong!

There is a whole selection of different length bolts holding a 300tdi timing cover in place if that helps!

Had the same problem with my 110. I replaced the starter motor and things improved a little bit, but still not enough. So I then ran a new wire from the battery positive to the starter motor... WOW! That fixed it. It now starts on the button, even on cold mornings I wish I'd done this first rather than cough out for a new starter!!

I've been running blue polybushes in the camel for a few years, but for laugh decided to fit gen rubber bushes even though the polys didn't show any signs of being past their best. I've only changed the rear end bushes so far but this has really stiffened up my back end . Agreed with Si tho, its rare that we ever compare new with new, so a proper comparison is difficult. As for the ingress of dirt and water, I've heard this about the cheaper bushes, deflex (???) and the like, but after close inspection of the holes after removing my Polys, I couldn't really see any evidence.

Thanks all... I think I'll look at cleaning/replacing the brush pack first as these are fairly cheap and easy to do. As suggested by Sip, I'm inclined to agree that these things aren't overly accurate and are only there to provide an indication, rather than an exact measurement. Zim... It's a VSR. I'm pretty certain it kicks in at 13.7v, but it's quite possible I'm mistaken! Oh, and not sure if I should admit to this, but making sure the connection is done up, rather than rattling about on the battery terminal helps!! Cheers all

Any alternator geeks out there? I've got one of these National Luna battery monitors mounted on the dash of the 110 On the way home from work this afternoon I was keeping an eye on it and noticed that the reading was fluctuating between 12.6v and 13.6v regardless of whether I has lights/heaters/stereo on. A couple of times the 14.4v led lit up momentarily. Considering my split charge doesn't start split charging until 13.7v, I'm left with a second battery that is now completely flat meaning the heated seats won't work !!! My question is this... is it normal for alternator output voltage to fluctuate or should it be a steady? A cold bum in the mornings is not nice, hence an urgent need to solve this problem! Cheers Dan

Is that snow??? You lucky sods! Funny, I had the same sort of issues when I first started driving the Camel Freelander, which is left hand drive, it felt very odd for a few weeks, but soon got used to it. TBH I couldn't even tell you what side the indicator stalk is on now!

As Blippie said, turn the key twice to lock all the doors

Yup, 'tis an easy fix... done it on both my L series freelanders now. I vaguely remember having to take the side cover off that fixes to the chassis rail too... 3x 10mm bolts IIRC

That's what I'll be doing when we build the new garage... concreted-in/bolt-down ring in the concrete with a hefty chain and padlock. It'll probably only need to go around the tow bar supports. If anybody does try to drag it off the driveway it'll make a hell of a bang and stop them dead in their tracks. Hopefully that would be enough to make them scarpa!!

Will the burger van be there? I've missed Richard's and Ann's cake!