landroversforever

Ha! I’ve just posted the same on the other thread thinking it was this one the angle on a centre drill is also the same angle as a centre for the tailstock

Got a croc-clip type one on the TIG and it’s so much easier to use than the clamp type one on the MIG.

It’s an iron rich paint. Often used by the rat-look types in the VW and other crowds.

Stunning work!

I wouldn't say it's going to make it any worse. IMO I like everything to be just so, bolts in a sensibly sized hole etc, but with LRs you need that extra bit of room around it.

Coming along well, looking forward to seeing it drag something!

I know it’s a bit bigger than you want, but I’ve got one of these and it’s fantastic. Lives with brake cleaner in it. https://www.frost.co.uk/chemico-compressed-air-sprayer-pump-action-pressure-sprayer-cleaner-degreaser-1-5-litre.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwODlBRDuARIsAMy_28XLpMk1rKmy5q1zgsZJUJ-ckQnJZvLHT8ujb2Bynx6eVm4CR3vUxiMaAjsMEALw_wcB

Id cut everything with coolant, everything but brass and ali-bronze which prefer going in dry

IMO coolant rather than oil etc. The main thing with a coolant pump rather than brush/squirty bottle is the time when you've got both hands busy and want a bit more coolant. Not used that type myself, looks good! One thing I always liked about The RDG one is that you could sometimes have two tools on the go. Not so useful in a home workshop environment mind

Not sure if its the right size, but this type of quick change toolpost is my favourite: https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/spindle-nose-and-workholding/quick-change-toolposts/t-1-quick-change-toolpost/p/ZT1125189X?istCompanyId=6aa6787b-063e-4414-802d-129f235df603&istItemId=-mrqlltlam&istBid=t&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=affiliate&pub_w_id=8739971&utm_campaign=affiliates&cjevent=292642085f8111e9826802c70a180514 Rather than the quick change ones which turn round 90Deg at a time with some kind of ratchet.

RDG tools on eBay aren’t too bad. We used to use them in my old department, not the likes of sandvic but reasonable. Sometimes the tips themselves will have the part number written on them. Or written on the tool body.

Facing is taking material off the end. So in your case the end of the shaft with the tapped hole in.

I’m not sure how well the parting would go on the CV shaft. It wouldn’t worry about the intermittent cut, but they’re likely to have been heat treated I’d have thought. As for the technique with parting, I’d have to disagree with the above and say don’t slow it down. Keep it at the same speed you would do any other processes on that material/size. Number 1 thing people cock up when parting off is the tool height, it needs to be spot on. Too high and you’ll rub, too low and it has the tendency to dig the tool under the job and is the easiest and most common way of snapping the tool. You also want to keep the tool as short as possible for the job in hand, particularly on the harder materials like steel or stainless, that keeps to rigid and will give you a better surface finish. With parting you’ve also got to get a little brave and get the tool cutting and keep it cutting. Have you got a coolant pump on your lathe? If so parting is one of the jobs that loves to be drowned and kept cool.

I’ve got two normal lines, and whilst they’re ok for doing tyres outside, I need both together to get outside and round a vehicle. Having a retractable by the door will make it so much quicker and easier!

It is Steve. However you’d struggle on anything less than a massive internal diameter with a tool like that.