PS_Bond

*Yet another* stupid question... I may be being daft, but this morning I tried to turn the engine crank by hand (trying to check the lift pump). It moved about 30 degrees, then I couldn't move it any further. Put a breaker bar on the socket, still couldn't move it any further. When I did the timing (er - 10 months ago, probably; this has taken a long time so far), I turned the engine through 720 degrees using a ratchet, but then the injector pipes weren't fitted. Pulling #1 & #4 glowplugs enabled me to get far more movement on the crank (maybe 360 degrees), so I'm assuming it is just the compression that's stopping me. The starter motor isn't stuck, the serpentine belt isn't fitted and the beasty isn't in gear - so am I just deluding myself that I think I should be able to turn the engine further? Cheers, Peter

Many thanks - from the workshop manual I've got 14 fasteners total (step 47, P4, Manual Gearbox Repair); from the parts catalogue (as posted), it lists 13 M10x30 on P245, yet in the gearbox section it claims that it requires 4 M10x110mm, 9 M10 flanged nuts and an M8x14. I could go mad cross-referencing things... Having pulled one engine & got a lot of the way through putting this one back, I've got an awful lot of left-over bolts. Not ideal.

Daft question... Are all the fasteners holding the flywheel housing & bell housing together supposed to be studs into the flywheel housing? Or are any of them supposed to be bolts? Looking at Microcat, I can see an M10x30 bolt, and M10x35 bolt and an M10x25 stud - but I'm not sure which is supposed to be where... TIA

Following on from my wittering on the other thread about possible DDS, I think I've found the unit - http://www.medautomo...D%2057-1_EN.pdf There's no spider, just the unit on the injection pump and the dongle (and socket). I'm assuming this is an aftermarket-only beasty (which kind of explains the large coil of excess cable too) - and I'm wondering if this one might be feasible to non-destructively remove for the time being. Has anyone else come across these things?

Hmm. The words "Digital Diesel Solenoid" seem to have some relevance...

Ah. A 23L engine would be... Interesting. Or just expensive to run!

If you mean a keyfob remote, nope - this is a plug-in dongle. The original EGR pump has the 4 core wire to the end of the pump with a plastic lump on it which is linked to the immobiliser AFAICT. The donor ECU is staying in the box, along with all the other electronics (and the EGR controller now too). If I could at least find some pics of the blasted thing I'd be a lot happier about the setup! They are... Why?

Returning to this some time later... Quite some time later. Having had a pig of a job getting the replacement engine into the engine bay (uphill, on mud/gravel), the vehicle has been relocated as well. I've now got the entertainment that the old injection pump has an immobiliser unit on it - and the lead to it was cut when it was pulled from the vehicle. A) Is it possible to get the back off the thing and reconnect the lead properly, is it replaceable or am I going to have to resplice the cable and B) I'm struggling to find a decent description of this immobiliser system; it has a dongle fitted beside the steering wheel column, a spider of some sort in the battery box and that's about it - no key operation, no remote... Does anyone have any pointers? I'd prefer to keep some semblance of immobiliser to keep the insurers happy, so knocking the unit off the back of the pump isn't really on. There's some bloody mindedness now setting in on getting this thing operational again. Then getting rid of some of the spares I've accumulated with the 2nd engine!

I've had a similar problem with temperature senders on the 300tdi - there are 2 resistance ranges, from memory. First one I got hold of meant the needle was at full deflection after 3 minutes of running despite the coolant temperature being at normal levels; swapped it for the "other" model and all was well. Interested in your comments about the turbo manifold - although my "Disco" engine (that I was told would simply drop in once the fuel pump was changed over) turned out to be from a RR - and an auto as well.

Doubt the timing pin would withstand the shear force of trying to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt... If you're locking for timing, there's an access cover with 2 bolts on the flywheel housing and a hole in the back face of the drive plate. Locking pin screws into one of the 2 holes (think it's the larger, check the 300tdi engine overhaul manual) and engages in the hole.

Yeah, I ran through a long vocabulary when my newly-acquired box spanner twisted out of shape due to that (although it didn't need a 3' bar to knacker it!). Gave in and bought an impact socket to shift them, then hammered the spanner back to shape. I might redo the heat-treat on it and give it a bit more spring when I get a round tuit.

One brief addendum - if you're *really* lucky, you may discover that some kind person who last worked on your 300TDi's bearings thought it would be a good idea to do both the nuts up to TD5 torque levels rather than something that could actually be moved with a box spanner...

I use a jeweller's piercing saw for obnoxious shaped (i.e. anything not round) cutouts these days.

A simple puller works. An almighty crack as it came free though...

That's the route that seemed sanest to me, so yes - the old fuel pump is in the newer engine. Besides, the guy who sold me the engine still hasn't sent the ECU... As I'm losing the EGR, that means I can strip the EGR controller out too - one less thing to go wrong. Funny, for some reason I was certain it was a Disco was the donor - but now I can't see why I thought that. Going to try a puller on that plate this evening.

Many thanks for that - I didn't think I'd seen a bush on the auto engine. So is that plate just a sliding fit then? For certain values of "sliding", of course. Been finding some seemingly strange things about my old engine; for example, it was the old setup for the timing pulleys (despite being assured it had been updated when I bought it...) - yet it has an EGR valve on it. The old one was a 23L, the replacement is a 19L. Not being able to find much specific to the engine numbers has been a PITA, especially when you don't know the VIN of the donor vehicle. I'm generally finding working on this a lot easier than I ever expected. Proof of the pudding will be in whether it runs or not...!

Hi all - I'm partway through fitting a newer engine to my dead Defender (con rods blew chunks out of the engine when the timing belt failed); I've got what turns out to have been an engine from an auto Disco. Done the timing belt, swapped the flywheel housing over (broke the drive plate in persuading it off the crankshaft); however, there is what I'm assuming is a spacer plate with a dowel that is not quite in the right place for the old flywheel. I *think * the part is FTC4214, but I could be wrong... Either way, what's the best method for removing it, please? I really need to have a look and see if the spigot bush needs replacing too. TIA, Peter