PS_Bond

My current job is replacing the swivel housings (leaking followed by rusting) - well, as soon as I can get the drag link & track rod off... I've got the first of the CV joints out and they look somewhat sparse on grease or oil; before I put them back in again, should I pack the bearings and if so with what? 1 shot? EP90 (OK, paint not pack in that case)? Moly grease? Or do I just put my faith in the new pack of 1 shot finding its way in before anything untoward happens?

Might be worth checking further going by this - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71920&view=findpost&p=614322 Keep your head down (and remember a Defender does not provide small arms cover!).

I know, picky, picky Onwards & upwards.

Starts and runs Stopping is more of an issue - someone has played silly buggers with the loom, so the shutoff solenoid was powered regardless.

An interesting read, thank you. Point taken on the rad being too low...

If there's too much water in it, it's not going to help. FWIW, this stuff is clear (and smells of diesel!); haven't tried direct feed yet as I've got fuel reaching the injectors & it has been cranked a moderate amount, albeit slowly.

We shall see - the engine wasn't exactly turning over quickly. Gave in and bought a new one this morning, so I'll drop that in the thing tonight and try. If the fuel is getting through the injectors and the compression is good enough I don't think there's anything should prevent it if given enough of a kick.

Well, I'm finally at the stage of trying to start this thing - having removed the immobiliser in a fairly aggressive way after the grub screw holding it in place went rounded. Fuel is reaching the injectors. The starter is turning the engine - but it won't fire. Battery? The one in there is of unknown age, so at least 8 years old with the last 2 years doing nothing. I'd decided to replace it anyway, but had hoped I could use it during the pre-MOT overhaul.

MIne just stopped through corrosion - when I replaced the unit, the mounting bolt was so rusted I had to resort to the Dremel to get the thing off.

A level sensor in the rad would seem to be a possible solution - if there's a Disco sender then I may have it in amongst my excess bits.

No, but it does have a little access plate on the housing that takes a timing pin. Difflock's description is probably better than mine - http://www.difflock.com/downloads/DIFFLOCK-Timing-Kit.pdf

By coolant loss sensor, I presume you mean something more useful than "hmm, the vents aren't blowing hot any more"?

A friendly tap with a suitable percussive maintenance tool has usually worked well for me (so long as the belt is fitted). Which is where it's kind of useful to know which way the threads go... I thought on the 300TDI they were all left hand? Reinstallation with anti-seize is what I've always gone for.

Viscous fans are a lovely idea in theory - automagically swiitching on when the temperature gets hot enough. In practice the things usually end up failing though! That said, I've not done anything about mine (put back on earlier this week); a lot of people seem to advocate putting an electric fan in instead. Very, very easy to fit - providing you remember the threads are left-hand. A viscous fan spanner (32mm) is quite handy.

Corrosion on the bulb and/or terminals would be the first thing I'd look at.

Is there a good reason for not running it off an additional relay connected to the washer motor switch - or am I being daft in expecting to only need to be live while squirting?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6943 ?

Found a tidy solution - fuel spill off end caps. Neat, replacable and not jamming screws into the end of pipes. Need to get the modulator out next.

It was:)

As promised - Thanks for the reassurance on the bolts, Cwazy - what could possibly go wrong? (I suppose routing that engine harness correctly would be a start though ) BTW - if that's not showing what you want, it's no problem to go and get a different angle.

#1 I can't do right this second, #2 I can sort this evening. Having located the engine loom (carefully packed away with the Disco loom...) I'm putting that back in before I finish redoing the air & coolant hoses. Could also do with working out where I put the turbo boost pipe, but I might just replace that.

That's a relief - I had dire visions of warping the head if the tension was off the 2... Many thanks (yet again).

Yes to all bolts? And hope they've not hit the 5 uses yet... Engine cold's not a problem - I'm still putting bits back in!

Today I learned that 300TDI Discos and Defenders mount their air cleaners very, very differently. Not sure what the Disco does, but given I need to take 2 head bolts out to fit this, can I get away with just pulling those 2, or do I really need to do the full sequence?

After some digging, I haven't seen a clean answer to this - when removing the EGR (and I want the entire setup out of the engine bay!), what's a clean way to seal the T piece arm leading from the vacuum pump to the brake servo housing, please? I see some of the EGR kits include a blanking plug, but it doesn't seem to be a part. I had wondered about replacing the vacuum pipe altogether (ANR2783, I think), but it's either out of stock or costs £55 + VAT for a 10" length of pipe, which seems excessive. I'm really looking for something that can't fall off, or out!