sierrafery
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Posts posted by sierrafery
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then i have seriouis suspicions that the earths are fine though
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For the M+S lights there must be a stored fault code which will point you in the right direction, about the missfire also the stored codes others than the SAI pump would help... could be bad MAF sensor
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Check the earth in the attached connector C0083 - 2 black wire make sure it makes good contact in the plug also measure resistance against body in the male side... is that the only thing which is not working? that's important
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10mm allen key is perfect fit for an undamaged plug
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download RAVE 1 from here http://www.d-lander.com/manuals/ and you'll find everything there
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No glitches at all, those are real codes, the Td5 engine management is not OBD2 compliant so no relation with P codes, for the injector code check the ECU red plug for oil cos if there's oil ingress the output for those warning lamps can be affected too .... dont blame Lynx which is a good tool for the "operator"'s lack of knowledge
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might be as the block is from alloy and the bolt from steel
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That fan is too high mounted to affect the oil cooler
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It can be "tired" transmission temp sensor too(UBI100030), it's screwed into the cooler, i dont know it's thread but you can fit a sensor of a digital gauge instead of it with an adaptor if the thread is different, or you can drill and cut thread on the other side of the cooler.. then you'll see the real temp on the dash instead of the warning , that gauge works for oil as well, i fitted one to somebody in a BMW cooler and it works
i used a gauge like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-52mm-UNIVERSAL-DIGITAL-BLUE-LED-WATER-TEMP-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-METER-CAR-UK-/360811362289 water sensor/gauge works for oil as well, i wired one to a friend in a BMW cooler and it works(i made the electrics only cos he fitted the sensor to the cooler)
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Yes it can be a pain to remove...try with this stuff https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/lubricants-and-chemicals/leak-detectors-flawfinders-and-freezer-sprays/8040-freeze-and-release-400ml-aerosol/p/LOC7258040W , give it alot to freeze it, that's how i managed
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Only nanocom or autologic can read/set it, no chance with hawkeye or lynx... you should be able to get it from main dealer through phone or mail if you provide them proof of the ownership cos the main dealer has it in the database associated to the VIN, just pray the previous owner didnt change it.... or you can pay to get it http://www.mgrovercodes.com/land-rover/discovery-2/eka-code/
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I dunno, maybe they wanted to be sure that you are aware of all the settings before you change something by scrolling through all of them, at least you know how it works now
... on the other side don't be dissapointed cos it's a good diagnostic tool just that you'll have to find out more on your own how to use it. 
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Unfortunately i dont have it i've just seen it in action at a friend some time ago but i know for sure it's on the same protocol like hawkeye which i have and it asks for a confirmation on exit for changing the settings, after you made the change dont exit directly just jump to the next option(iirc odometer error warning) if it's disabled let it so then scroll through all the other options untill the end then exit..... dont you get a confirmation request then?
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I answered about this on the other thread... you decide where but let's talk only in one of them
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That's boll*x m8, a "locked" BCU means immobilised so no communication with any tester whatsoever before it's unlocked with EKA, as long as your vehicle cranks and starts it's not the case.... unfortunately those guys are like LR "engineers" at main dealers...they dont have a clue
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One is for PDC(park distance control) and the bigger for ACE(active cornering enhancement)
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Don't you have a final option at the end of the menu after you made the change in the BCU for courtesy lights which asks you to confirm the changes from factory settings?... i dont have lynx but that's how hawkeye works and they are on the same protocol, so after you made any change in the BCU scroll untill the end of all the settings and see if there is a confirmation request or not
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Hi, describe what have you tried and how it failed... did you access the BCU - Programming and you couldn't enable the courtesy headlights?
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Erase them all and read again after some driving, that 108 can be hystrorical from a moment when the battery died or there was bad contact in the clamps
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tell me what year is your D1 and maybe i cann tell you exactly where to splice in
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Hi, this thread has begun a while ago but i've just seen it as you answered, i dont have shares in that Lynx tool i'm just trying to help believe me, what i know is that it's built on the same protocol like the main delaer's Testbook T4 by the same manufacturer(Omitec) so i have serious doubts it's a software issue rather than an operator one no offence.... i've been studying all kind of LR diagnostic protocols for a while now as a hobby which means deeply
So what's your problem, the immobiliser thing or the door switch issue...or both? cos i see the OP stated there's no voltage through the door switch which is normal cos they are working on earth path and a faulty one would mix up the automatic illumination and show on any ECU is connected.
As about the immobiliser are you sure there's no option like "Key mobilise - Key disarm" there in the alarm settings?, cos if it is set it to "allowed"... or copy/paste here all the options you have in the alarm settings menu and describe exactly your problem and we'll speak then
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No need to remove the turbo, for the wastegate see this
,if that's OK the next move is this http://www.discovery2.co.uk/wastegate.html
it can be a MAP or MAF sensor missbehaviour too, a tester is needed for proper diagnose otherwise it's a guessing game
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yes there are servomotors for the flap system, run a diagnostic on it to rule out motor failure then if no fault code you'll have to reach to the assy which will be difficult in situ
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I'd contradict all those who ruled out a leak and i bet on air bag leak though, replace both bags if they are older than 6 years.... or if you want to be 100% it's a leak leave it over night or those few hours with battery disconnected and if it drops this way too you have the answer cos the management is ruled out
... on the other side don't be dissapointed cos it's a good diagnostic tool just that you'll have to find out more on your own how to use it. 
300tdi abs light blink code
in Discovery Forum
Posted
In the right bottom pic, C2092/K103 that's what you must remove