sierrafery
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Posts posted by sierrafery
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Why don't you just put the dipsticks near each other and compare?
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I know that not all D2's have diff-lock, what i said is that the parts for diff-lock are not VIN dependant cos those are the same for all, there are early D2s with diff-lock and facelifts too... there are other parts which can be different between them so i can't see how a VIN would have helped you for that... if the microcat you are using needs a VIN to identify parts here is one which doesnt http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?PAGE=539332&SPRACHE=EN
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Why do you need a D2 VIN for diff-lock part numbers?... those are not VIN dependant
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IMO a fusebox/IDM fault would affect ALL the instruments not just speedo, odometer and fuel, temp gauges cos all it does is to provide the feed for it... though nothing is certain when it come to such odd defects
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If the IP(instrument pack) is with lower mileage you are OK cos you can sync' it with the BCU using a tester as to adopt the real mileage, problem is if the IP has higher mileage cos then you are stuck with that no way to go backwards to the real one
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It seems that you'll need an instrument pack
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Here you have a good version: http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/rave01.iso , if no joy get from here: http://www.d-lander.com/manuals/ patience while downloading cos it's large file and you need acrobat reader for it
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Autodata is not accurate when it comes to the Td5, it's full of mistakes(i compared it with RAVE that's how i know), on most of the other PD/EUI engine the clearance is half turn back from bottom but for the Td5 is full turn, ask the mechanic if he remembers how he did it, if no fault codes logged and the injector roughness is not the best the most suspect is the fuel pressure, remove the fuel pump and clean the mesh filter from it's bottom cos if the washers were leaking that will be full of crud, eventually check the strainer under the FPR or measure the fuel pressure with a gauge inserted instead of the FT sensor in the FPR
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insert the VIN into this https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/Land Rover and you'll get all the info about it:
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Starting from '96 all the D1's had OBD port, on 300tdi was used for EDC, ABS, SRS and alarm module diagnostics and programming, on those without EDC and without ABS was used only for SRS and alarm but it's there on all, copy from the '96 D1 electric troubleshooting manual:
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At the bottom of fascia above the clutch pedal close to the gearboxl tunnel, if it's just a hole there open the lid and search in that area cos it used to snap from the fixing and fall behind it
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What dimension tyres and what pressure?
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This symptom is caused by a missballance between the wheel speed sensor inputs, i've seen it many times but in most cases was caused by aftermarket hubs, you say your's are genuine, dont misunderstand me but did you buy them yourself and you van confirm they are with Timken bearings and Wabco sensor?... also are your tyres all the same brand, standard dimension and even pressure per axle?
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Hi, did you adjusted well the injector clearances after you changed the washers?
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You need a manual ECU or modify internally and remap the existing one cos the automatic ECU doesnt have the hardware for the clutch switch input and the fuel map for manual management is different also you'll have to rewire the clutch switch's circuit untill the ECU and set the BCU with dedicated tester for manual engine as well
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That plug is made as to let you turn and release it inside in case you want to remove the headlamp's rear cover for some purpose and not cut the wiring if you see what i mean... maybe at some point LR wanted to sell the adjustment motors separately but then they chganged theyr mind
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Well done, i'm glad it's sorted
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As said the electric fan on after the ignition is off it's normal but for an abnormal situation cos a Td5 with a well working cooling system should not exceed 110*C except in extreme situations, so you have a problem with the cooling system and your engine is running too hot(above 110*C) but as long as the gauge is at the middle it's below 120*C(the marvelous function of the original temp gauge), make sure you have enough coolant then try to stop the viscous fan with a rolled up newspaper when the radiator is hot, if you can you need a new one cos it's just freewheeling and that's why the engine gets too hot, if that's ok you better flush the system well then fill it with 50% OAT mix... we have above 38*C here and mine doesnt exceed 100*C(i have additional gauge) as long as everything is OK... that electric fan has dual purpose, for aircon and for cooling, see attachment
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I encourage you to rewire the whole thing and cut the old circuit, at least then you know for sure it's well done
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Now you have the confirmation that there is a short between LH and RH circuits, if you can find the splice joint where the lamps are all connected to the feed each side better cut the GW and GR wires and run new ones from the stalk's plug
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3 hours ago, blz6662 said:
OK, now fitted a 10A fuse and this is the result.
GW wires powered up - ALL lights come on including repeaters
GR wires powered up - Nothing at all, not even a glimmer or glow from any light.
I've just been looking al the loom plugs and checking earths under bonnet and wings looking for the obvious but now found anything yet.
Can you suggest the best way forward for me to go in order to trace this fault.
Cheers
Baden
Unfortunately in this case the diagram might not match with your vehicle cos if nothing comes on with voltage applied to the GR wire the lights should not come on when you indicate to the left but you said they do and indicating to the left according to the attached diagram means voltage switched to the GR wire if you see what i mean... measure with multimeter for voltage in the stalk side plug where the GR and GW wires are should go while you indicate each side to see if you get voltage as in the scheme
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Hi, if i understand well by "self levelling unit" you mean height sensor and if it's so when you disconnected it and the bag deflated means the system was active and then it lost calibration for that side, that's why it's recommended to disconnect the battery before you unplug a sensor...at this time a dedicated tester is needed to recalibrate height sensors also from your description about what happened before you unplugged the sensor it seems that the air supply valve on that side was leaking, if the problem was generated by the management you can rule it out after the bags will be inflated by disconnecting the battery...if it will keep dropping this way it's certainly a leak, if not then it's management, if you are handy you can improvise, unplug the compressor and valves and make a wiring as to be able to give direct feed from battery to the compressor and air supply valves at the same time then cut the feed when the bags are inflated...if no leaks are present the bags will stay inflated for many days this way... for a bag to inflate the compressor and the air supply valve must get feed at the same time and to deflate the exhaust valve and air supply valve at the same time if you see what i mean
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I edited the diagram to make you understand what we are doing, so i delimited with green the GW circuit for RH and with red the GR circuit for LH ... you can clearely see that if the circuit on your vehicle is like in the diagram if you give feed on those circuits separately they must work only one side at a time, actually that's what should happen when you move the stalk to each side so as long as they come on all when you indicate one side we must see where is the problem...if when you'll give feed to one of those wires all the light will come on it means without any doubtb that there is a short between the GW and GR wires somewhere
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try with a bigger fuse cos the test is to see if there is a short between the two sides or not cos according to the diagram i've seen the GW and GR wires are going to the bulbs so as long as they come on all it's not supposed tio be a short to ground but a short within them and so the load of all can be bigger than 5A
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Electronic immobilisation
in Discovery Forum
Posted · Edited by sierrafery
It's simple, you need the EKA code to remobilise it ... then find and fix the fault, maybe if you'll explain with more details how the issue started and what's the symptom i could tell you more but i can't guess based on this cryptic message... i want and i'm confidentr that i can help you but i need an exhaustive description of the fault, any small detail can be relevant when it comes to immobilisation issues