sierrafery
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Posts posted by sierrafery
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i just told you the torques from the book where they are easy to find, e/g. nr 3 at "refit":... so you can find the 25Nm for the steering pump bracket in the same manual
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For the 5 coolant pump bolts is 9Nm, the other M10 if it's the mounting plate bolt to pump then it's 25Nm
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I'm not sure i found the proper diagram for that type but watch the plug which goes into the stalk, if you see green/white and green/red wires going into it unplug the stalk, take a piece of wire with a 5A inline fuse and give direct 12V from a live one of those wires at a time, with 12V to the G/R wire only the LH indicators should light on and on the G/W the RH ones... if they all come on no matter in which of those two wires you give 12V there is a short in the harness or in that plug
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So just confirm now the dash indication is OK but no external light at all or how?
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They look similar from distance but the construction is different, the P38 one is designed to be repaired that's why repair kits are available, you'll not find a circlip on the D2 hub cos it's all encapsulated... better forget about that cos even if you can force out the bearing IMO you'll not be able to fit a new one as to restore the hub to it's initial status also the reluctor ring is very close to the bearing not like in the P38 hub... the D2's ABS system is more sensitive that's why it reacts to wear in the hub even before being a noticeable play in the wheel
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You should swap the interior fusebox then
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Hi, you have to plug in a proper tester to enable the heated front screen function in the BCU settings
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Are you sure that the chassis loom which contains the SLS wiring too wasnt hurt during the chassis repair? you sais that dash light/symbol is showing the up/down arrows,, do you mean after the engine was started too? cos that means fault situation and tester is needed to see the stored fault code
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Most probably one wire of the diff-lock switch is touching earth or the water caused a short on that switch's wiring... this triggers the warning and the ABS +TC warnings are related cos they are supposed to come on together with the diff-lock on pre-facelift modells...so i doubt it's mechanically stuck but there's some problem at the switch... download RAVE ASAP cos if it's not that you'll need it...the diff'lock switch is not far from the spigot on the same a side of the transfer case s bit toward rear... analise the wiring there and if it's well plugged unplug both connectors and see if the warning goes out this way and if it is you need a new switch. if no joy we'll speak then but have RAVE for that
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C0484/0102 purple/blue wire
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If the diff lock warning comes on when you hit the brakes then fuse F25 is blown that's why that setup with the resistor is made there to warn you that the brake lights are not working F25 being blown, if it comes on randomly while driving most probably the switch on the transfer box is gone cos it's poor design and the terminals used to split, it's about the one pointred with arrow, part nr PRC2911
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you should contact omitec
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You should have an activation guide in the box , iirc you'll have to email omitec with the code
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If it has an engine ECU(like in the pic) or not behind the right kick pannel?
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welcome, let's hope it's fixed, just to know in case it isnt fixed is your's with EDC or not?
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14 minutes ago, Steve Warman said:
I managed to have a look under the bonnet this morning to see if I could see anything amiss and noticed a wire that runs from the glow plug timer relay to another box near the battery.
The wire was trapped under the battery and when i managed to get it out from underneath noticed that it had been squashed and worn through
I've taped up, for the time being, any exposed sections
And did this fix things?
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so can i spresume then that a '95 D1 is with EDC?
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http://lrparts.ru/engl/ Click on Microcat, select Disco 1 in the left menu then select the desired section and when you click on the part's number it will appear if it's + japan or ROW if it's a difference between part numbers ...or this http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?PAGE=809917&SPRACHE=EN
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I made some research on this and as i said it might be a confusion cos according to Microcat the EDC ECU p/n ERR5985 [ 2500 cc - Diesel - TDi - EDC - Europe ] was valid to VIN ......MA163103 which means built in '95 so it depends on the VIN of the OP's vehicle ...anyway the problem is somewhere on that path from F3 as in the diagram
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Might be some VIN related confusion cos the diagram is from '95 D1's electrical troubleshooting manual
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1 hour ago, SPendrey said:
why would the glow plug timer/relay be the cause if the failures occur while driving.
Cos you didnt say in the first post that it occurs while driving .... though it's possible to be an intermittent short within it
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1 hour ago, teabag said:Fuse 3 looks after the supply to: fuel cut shut-off solenoid, EGR control solenoid, EGR valve control module and the glow plug timer relay. So not that bad with the EGR being the primary suspect.
On non EDC modells, this one being an auto i presumed it's with EDC so F3 goes to glow plug timer and ECU cos the EGR is managed by the ECU on these
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Remove the glow plug timer unit and se if it blows then... if not the problem is on that path and we'll speak then
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55 minutes ago, Stretch 123 said:
Just had a new screen fitted and the heated screen is not working have checked the fuse Nd it's fine , the screen that came out was not the proper screen for the model discovery mk 2 td5 51 plate
There are two of them, one for each side... if the plugs are well connected rule out the relay(R8) too
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Hi, what year is the vehicle and tell me exactly which fuse, F7(20A) engine bay or which one?
Hawkeye total -- question from Jamps6789
in Discovery Forum
Posted
IMO it will as the ''classic'' hawkeye does it... two jacks will be needed to support the body at even level then when the tool asks if calibration blocks are fitted prompt yes, save and exit the menu... that's all