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sierrafery

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Posts posted by sierrafery

    Fuse3 puzzle....

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted · Edited by sierrafery

    I've been through this, unfortunately no official LR document shows the real diagrams for facelifts in this particuar matter... F33 appears in all as being for interior illumination too(beside side ligths) but on the facelifts is F3, the difference is visible on the interior fuseboxe's layout which are in the vehicles but on facelifts for F3 the manual is pointed where in all diagrams is shown F33, see the pics, facelift vs non-facelift fusebox

     

    Fusebox facelift.jpg

    FUSES INT..jpg

    No traction on long uphill stretch

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    It's possible that the coolant temp goes above 110*C then the management reduces fuelling to protect the engine, unfortunately the coolant temp gauge is a bad joke as it goes to the middle at 70 and stays there untill 120 when it cuts fuelling even more but this is too high for protection if you drove many miles at 115*C, watch the temp gauge when this happens and if it's a bit above middle that's the problem, also if the thermostat in the fuel cooler is shot the same symptom happens cos at too high FT the fuelling is also reduced... also do you still have EGR and the catalysts fitted? if yes these could be the cause too

    the proper way to diagnose this would be to record a live data log with nanocom to catch the symptom then the truth will be revealed... otherwise it's a guessing game

    Where is my coolant being lost from

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted · Edited by sierrafery

    Hi, can be a small leak which occurs only with hot engine and evaporates instantly or the worst scenario(which happened to me) to be a crack in the head or block and the coolant ends up in the combustion... on mine was a crack in the first inlet port 😖 ...if it's a small evaporating leak you'll find it only by using something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UV-Dye-Torch-Kit-Leak-Detection-Dye-Coolant-Cooling-Antifreeze-System-RLD2-/230723938073

     

    there is a best scenario too which means you need a new tank cap so better rule that out first and be aware that the cap must be tightened to maximum allowed

    Ignition problem

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted · Edited by sierrafery

    IMO it can be something on the ignition switch's harness( what's in the pic)... to rule it out unplug that brown connector which is plugged into the front of the under dash fusebox and if the symptom goes away then that's it... can be sticking switch contact or short in the harness

     

    a9528f9c-c786-48c3-b554-957d14b51a67.JPG

    Lack of power just after start up

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted · Edited by sierrafery

    Hi, first of all you should stay idling for around 15 secs after start up for the sake of the turbocharger so dont try to take off immediately, nor after 5 seconds...and if you follow the builder's recommendation you'll not have this problem at all... while the turbo is not well lubricated it spins harder or at all at idle exhaust pressure so not much air flow to the inlet as well that's why it has no power, it depends very much on the oil's quality and thickness, how worn is the turbo, etc, happens more often with thermally broken thicker than recommended mineral or semi synthetic oils.

    From Workshop manual - Engine management Td5- Turbocharger 

    Quote

    The engine should be allowed to idle for 15 seconds following engine start up and before the engine is switched off

    to protect the turbocharger by maintaining oil supply to the turbine bearings.

     

    Discovery 1 key fob programming.

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted · Edited by sierrafery

    Hi, maybe you missed some element in the sequence and you can't do that alone:

    Single Button Remote Programming

    Discovery I and Range Rover Classic 1994 - '95

    Applies To:

    Item: AMR3722G
    Fits: Discovery I | '94 - '95
    Range Rover Classic | '95

    Note: This process must be carried out in 8 seconds to access learn mode. Best done with two people. You should have both remotes available or the second one will not work.

    1. Open hood and have assistant hold hood alarm switch down.
    2. With all doors closed and lock knobs up turn the ignition key on then off.
    3. Cycle drivers door button down then up.
    4. Assistant should then release the hood switch.
    5. Turn ignition on then off.
    6. If done correctly, horn will beep once and dash LED will light up. This indicates the learn mode has been accessed. If this doesn't happen repeat 1 thru 6.
    7. From inside car push and hold first remote. The dash LED should flash 8 cycles a second for one second, indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat steps 1 thru 6 again.
    8. Push and hold the second remote if the code is received the dash LED will flash 8 cycles indicating that the code was received. If this does not happen repeat 1 thru 7 again.

    Note: Turning the ignition on at any time will cancel the learning process.
    The system can only store two remote codes and must be done one at a time.
    If you only have one remote, program it twice.

     

    If still no joy make sure that the bonnet switch is well connected and in working order cos if it isnt the procedure fails... if you dont exactly know what fob you need contact these guys https://remotekey.co.uk/land-rover/land-rover-discovery-i-1993-1995/

     

    i dont know what that plug is for

     

     

    Which Discovery 4 / LR4 - 3.0 TDV6 or 5.0 V8?

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted · Edited by sierrafery

    I think it depends on who is intstalling the LPG, my brother in law has a 2006 D3 with 4.0 V6 on LPG since 2007 so 11 years and it needed only the usual maintainance no fault engine wise, it runs like a dream and even the emissions are lower, the only problem was with the central locking once which i sorted for him, the work was done by real proffesionists with a EU certificate . A matter of choice off course but i'd do it if i had a petrol engine. ... but this discussion might become off topic so i'll not insist anymore

    • Like 1

    D2 2001 Air suspension deflation method.

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    2 hours ago, Ally V8 said:

    Stabbing them with a sharp knife works well,you can then twist the knife to control the rate of deflation. I usually support the car properly to stop it from lowering. I then cut the bags right in half to make them very easy to remove. It also means nobody is tempted to try reusing them.

    +1 for that^^^  simple and efficient

    Discovery 2, headlight washers failed

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    Hi, relay R3 in the engine bay fusebox is for the headlamp powerwash and it is managed by the BCU, the power comes from fuse F4, to check the pump you can remove the relay and bridge the perpendicular cavities in the fusebox, then if the pump is good and the ciurcuit to it not interrupted it should turn over

    Wheel sensor?

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    Hi, the only certain way to find out what to do is to get the fault code read with a proper tester. Even if it's a sensor/hub issue you have to see which one but it can be many other things too.

    • Like 1

    Clearing fault following overheating

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    If you magnify this map https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?ll=53.29381779588928%2C-6.491546630859375&hl=en&oe=UTF8&msa=0&z=10&ie=UTF8&mid=1PmbphOvO47RAsn1ZdQFDD-ed-zo you can see two guys with tester quite close to Dublin, one at Navan, other at Sally Gap and they are on that map cos they are willing to help other D2 owners, the only thing is that to contact them you must be member on http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/index.php and send them PM

    Bearmach - quality bearings?

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    5 minutes ago, reb78 said:

    My experience is that this is not always the case. A lot of rubbish comes from Britpart in G spec boxes and it is not even the OEM manufacturer judging from the marks (or lack of) on the items.  

    That's theyr's bad ...it means they must be reported to some authorities cos that G suffix must certainly come from Genuine

    Bearmach - quality bearings?

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    Any kit or part with G at the end of the  p/n would be good cos G comes from "Genuine" and Britpart, Bearmach, Allmakes, etc are all acting as suppliers not as manufacturers and they can supply from cheap chinese aftermarkets to more expensive genuine or OEM or branded parts, the customer has the decision which one to buy

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