Souster

Thanks alot mate

Hi folks. Ive been looking into waterproofing my air intake like in the tech archive on the forum. I plan on buying a safari snorkel and some flexible ducting (the same as what comes with the snorkel really, except longer. Like something similar to this.. My link So instead of sealing the water drain with rtv silicon, i just have a pipe going straight from the snorkel to the airbox which at both ends will be sealed. Hopefully, this in turn reducing the amount of joins in the air intake and making the snorkel more effective. Would this work? Picture 8: (with safari snorkel and air intake joins) My idea would just have two joins, one at snorkel and the other at airbox.. My linkhttp://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78&st=20 Also, does anybody now the diameter of the ducting i need, at both ends if what i plan to do is ok? Many thanks, Josh

right folks, thanks for your replys its cleared things up for me... I will now use a 5 Amp fuse from now on then. To be honest, the reason why i ran it through a relay was because originally i was going to have two rear work lamps on the back. Switched on by a carling switch. But i then changed my mind and stuck with one still using the carling switch. Would i be better, getting rid of that relay (for the worklamp) and save it for the 4x55w spotlights i plan to have on a lightbar at the front. Which will be switched on via the main beam, but have a carling override switch for legal reasons. Thanks alot, Josh

thanks for your help. The reason why i used a 13amp fuse was because i used a inline fuse from the battery to the relay. I hadnt got any standard 10 amp fuses so i used a 13 temporarily.

Hi, Will a Puma defender safari snorkel fit a 300tdi defender. Sorry if this is a stupid question... but i cant seem to see why not? But i just thought i would check before. Many thanks, Josh

thanks alot guys. Must of been a dodgy bulb then. It was a H3 55w bulb in a ring work lamp.

thankyou for the quick reply. So its nothing to do with having a relay rated at 30amps for one lamp then??

Hi, Today i wired up my 55w worklamp using landymanluke`s diagram which i found fantastic. I used a 30amp relay and a 13amp fuse between the battery and pole 30 on the relay. I havent got a switch at the moment, so i was just touching a piece of wire to the +ve on the battery from pole 85 on the relay (just so i could test i had wired it up correctly. The worklamp worked perfectly for a few minutes. But when i felt the lens on the lamp it felt very hot... soon after the bulb blew. Ive used 25amp thin wall cable and the correct fittings. My question is what is causing the bulb to blow?? many thanks, Josh

Hi, Im about to change my flexible brake hoses on my defender. I wondered if there would be a problem having 2 inch longer flexi hoses on standard suspension would be a problem (being too long and excess hose). The reason for this is i plan to put a 2" lift on it some time in the future, and dont fancy changing the flexis twice. Thanks, Josh

Right, thats another lesson learnt. . Thankyou for your help, i will now be able to get to sleep at night

Right ok will do that. Thanks. I have also checked the front calipers and the bleed nipple on them are both closest to the floor, is this correct. Or have i again (what a fool) put them on the wrong sides?

Thankyou folks youve been fantastic. So to summarise the calipers being fitted to the wrong sides are stopping my rear brakes working because i cant bleed them properly due to the nipples being at the bottom of the calipers. That must be why when i clamp the rear flexi the brake pedal feels perfect. I feel so embarressed now making a fool of myself having the calipers on the wrong sides (must of been when i painted them when i first had the landy)

Thanks for the replys guys. Just looked at my rear calipers and both bleed niples are closest to the floor. I have tightened the wheel bearing recently after checked them at 12 and 6 when jacked up and they seem fine now (passed MOT too). The problem happens both when the car is stationairy and moving and there isnt any juddering when the brakes are applied. Thanks alot

Hi, I needed one for my 300tdi 90, and got one off ebay. I have the link where i got mine from, but they seem to of sold out. But you could try contacting them if they have any left. Ebay: My link If you have no luck with that you could try these: My link

Hi, Im having trouble with my brakes and wondered if you guys could help me. When i press my brake pedal with the engine running the pedal goes almost to the floor leaving about inch before it hits the floor. When the engine is not running the pedal feels ok (about the correct travel) but not fantastic. With both the engine off and running the pedal doesnt seem to creep. I have replaced many brake components now and still having no luck. Parts replaced : new lucas master cylinder, new brake pipes (not flexis), new brake pads, rebuilt rear calipers and put many litres of brake fluid through the system through bleeding (normal method and eazi bleed). I have had this problem for a while now, and the parts i have replaced arent making any difference. They have been bled so many times before and after replacing parts and its costing me a fortune. I Have also tried the vacuum pump test (holding brake on firmly then starting engine) and the pedal does go down to the floor much more, which when the landy is standing feels alot worse. Ive also pulled the vacuum pump hose of the servo and there feels a decent vacuum. Another thing is, the back brakes dont seem to be working on the full width of the disk as they arent removing any surface rust off other than in the centre (hense why i rebuilt the rear calipers). Ive clamped the rear flexi hose and the pedal is far higher, but is this due to it blocking fluid being pushed?? Its a 300tdi 97 defender 90 If you could shed any light on this i would be really greatfull as im stumped with it to be honest. thanks, Josh