Souster

Ahhh, sorry I'm not much good with the electrical terminology and using the multimeter. Basically, I set the multimeter to ohms setting, and all the readings read the same as touching the two probes of the meter together. Is that correct?

Hi Last couple of days my temp gauge has been bouncing with revs on my 300tdi. When the gauge is working properly it usually sits about 90 degrees. When revved or driving (with revs) the gauge will lower to 40 degrees. Dip the clutch and let the revs die and it will come back to 90. Same when idling at low revs, 90 degrees then if I rev the engine it will lower. The land rover is fitted with a vdo gauge and matched sender. Which I've never been that happy with, but then again when I first got the vehicle I was having earth issues, I changed the gauge due to thinking it was the gauge at fault. What I've changed/checked: *New main battery earth, checked resistance from battery neg post to the chassis and there's no resistance, same with the transfer box. *Checked resistance from neg battery post to the post on the bulkhead, no resistance. And similar with the block IIRC. *fitted a new alternator from a motor factors, due to the original draining the battery. The temp gauge hasn't been right since, so I don't really know why. But I cleaned the mounting posts for the alternator incase I was getting any feedback. *it's been a while but I'm sure I also checked the resistance of the sender wire too, and that has no resistance. *All connections on the rear of the gauge look fine and have been checked. Although I have got a coolant level sensor piggy backed off some of the terminals for the gauge, not sure if it would be giving any feedback through the gauge? I do like the vdo temp gauge,but it's been very problematic, should I try the original land rover one again? Seems strange it's revs related, which points me to thinking it's the alternator, but as it's new. I wanted to check here first. Thanks chaps.

Sorry I haven't got back sooner chaps. I wouldn't say it's perfect/totally fixed but it's certainly better since I've done the swivel preloads. It doesn't seem to pull at all under 50mph now really. Granted I have only driven it a few times local not very far. 50mph+ I get minor pull to the right hand side, but it's not consistent. So may try swapping out the 2 year old cheap polybushes and try genuine lr bushes. I'll now for sure after next weekend if I've solved the problem or not. Thank you all for your input and help. I just hope it's sorted and I'm not looking into steering boxes etc.

Thanks for the replies chaps. Yes still got the problem. My radius arms have cheap poly bushes in them maverick, only the standard ones though. I'm going to check the swivel preload in the week, make sure that's okay. I haven't done it since I owned the vehicle. I hope it's not the steering box, the lift has been on since I had it, and although it use to squirm under braking slightly; never this bad. To tell the truth it sounds very similar to yours maverick, anything other than a perfect road shows it up.

It unfortunately has a lift Mav, like it when I bought it.

Thanks Gren for your reply. The fluid is only about a couple of months old, replaced due to me thinking I had an issue with the front flexi pipes. I never got to the bottom of that issue (another thread). Strangely enough, the problem has only shown up shortly after replacing those pipes . But I believe it's coincidence, because it isn't just one side it's pulling to, it's either with no real pattern.

Thanks Graham. I did wonder if it had anything to do with it to be honest. Although it's only occurred the last few weeks. How did you diagnose it to be the steering box? Mine's always squirmed a bit under heavy braking really, I used to think this was due to having a suspension lift (unfortunately).

Hi all. Back again with the never ending land rover problems. This one seems to be getting worse. I'm finding the land rover is pulling to one side under heavy braking, either side too. Mainly when they are stamped on if someone was to pull out on me for example. Has anyone got any ideas? It doesn't always happen but it's getting more and more noticeable. All the brakes were new over a year ago, calipers too. Most bushes replaced with genuine land rover items, except radius arms. They are fitted with flo flex poly bushes a couple of years back. Panhard rod hasn't been touched, although I've checked it, and the only movement I can find is side to side like up and down the length of the bolt. Does this sound ok? I'm not convinced about the flo flex bushes to be honest. I can't see anything obvious underneath, brakes look fine, no oil contamination. I have got a minor steering box leak occurring, but nothing major yet. Can anyone help? What normally causes this type of fault? Thanks

Do the boxes only leak from the input and output seals? Mine seems to be leaking from a circle recess looking from the front of the box, is there a seal inside there?

Thanks red90. I had searched but a lot of different opinions. .. Thanks alot

Hi all I may have a slight air leak on the Diesel pipes on my 1995 defender. I've noticed the pipe from the tank to the lift pump is 10mm external diameter. Would the inside be 8mm or doesn't it matter? I've been advised to run a section of clear pipe from the filter to the FIP. I've measured the external diameter on said pipe which is 8mm, anybody know the internal diameter of this? As I think the pipe is push on. Lastly, how important is the seal for the pick up to the tank? Is it just to prevent Dirt ingress, or air? Thanks all

+1 on everything Aragorn said. I've made the silly mistake some years ago of fitting the brake calipers on the wrong sides. And couldn't get them to bleed! Nightmare of a time, but I'll never make the same mistake again. So make sure bleed nipples are at the top. How does the pedal feel when the engine off and the vacuum pressure extinguished. Any creep? Don't forget the pedal will be softer when the engine is running. Have you checked your wheel bearings too? Just throwing a few things out there. Hope it helps

Bosal is OEM and very good. Although correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm sure I heard somewhere britpart exhausts have a very long warranty, but I'm not totally sure. Worth a check though.

If it can't be heard externally in your video then surely it's body work resonance like retro said. Not sure if it's already been asked, but have you made sure the intake hose isn't rubbing on the bulkhead, or the intercooler hose with the metal straight piece that clamps to the inner wing isn't resonating is it? Apologies if it sounds daft or you've already checked

Blimey that's a shock . Incorrect torque?

My dad had similar on his. Rebuilt both front calipers with OEM parts and it sorted it. We were shocked the brakes still worked when stripping down the calipers. The fluid ways were blocked with a wax type gunge, bores full of dirt and rusty looking fluid. Fresh calipers and fluid and it's braking lovely.

Don't mean to veer off the subject. But for anyone needing GL4 EP90 this maybe of use. http://www.wilko.com/car-care-products/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-1l/invt/0077164

Thanks Bowie i will give that ago. Just a final thought, the front diff or CV'S wouldn't have any affect would they? Incorrectly shimmed or something pushing/pulling the hub if something isn't right. Totally guessing. I'll try the bearings tight, if not then I think I'll put this one to bed. Thanks to everyone

Thanks Chaps. Are we talking really tight?

Cheers Bowie. Will it damage the bearings if I try it for a few yards?

I'm sorry I'm sorry. I know your all going to hate me for bringing this thread back up again. I ordered some goodridge flexis to replace the terrifirmas that may have been the culprit of the problem. Anyway, been as the old braided hoses were coming off, I decided to clamp each front hose and drive down a private road. The brakes were perfect, pedal did sink when turning but only a very minute amount (seriously nit picking), the same with the other side. So it seems it's the front as expected, even though there's no play by feel. So, even though I've tried smaller wheels, it's seeming like it's bearings still. So as a last resort, I'm thinking of trying the spacers between the bearings like on the td5 models, making sure they are really tight up to the spacer. But, which spacer should I use? They are new bearings if that helps? Many thanks all

Me too. I pump the grease so that old grease pushes out from the UJ, and the fresh grease is then seen. That way replenishing the UJ with fresh grease. Maybe this is why I'm getting through UJ'S LOL

Me personally,I wouldn't go for heavy duty springs. Way too stiff and uncomfortable for my liking. If you want near enough the best. Look into old man emu, with gwyn Lewis gear. What that chap don't know about suspension ain't worth knowing. An alternative would be 2 inch lift blocks on genuine land rover springs and longer shocks. But I don't know much about it.

Thanks chaps and happy new year to you all. I'll try and get some photos too. I've been doing some more research. Mainly into my method of working on the hubs. I've been fitting the inner hub seals flush with the hub. The outer lip flush with the hub basically. Is this correct? Could it be the cause?

Hi Maverik, sorry I should have been more clear. Unfortunately, due to a suspension lift when purchasing the vehicle. I had to have extended brake lines. Any ideas anyone?