Souster

Thanks alot guys that's very helpful. Thank you for clarifying how long the vehicles can sit for without any adverse affects to the discs. I would also like to know what you guys think of mintex. Because the discs don't seem great, they are corroding something terrible. Then again I spose it's not being cleared off the rears properly. trw discs on the front are perfect

That's the one. My bad. 1/8 bsp is the one

I think it'd 1/8 NPT but someone will be along to tell you for sure

I've found the advise in the past was saying to remove them. Now its yo refit them too How long would you say it takes to start to damage a set of discs from corrosion? Providing the calipers are good. 2 or 3 weeks being exposed to the elements wouldn't cause sustainable pitting and corrosion would it?

Do you think it has negatively affected the discs in terms of corrosion or just wear?

I was told to removed them as they just cause problems with scraping etc. The fronts have no disc shields fitted and they look perfect. I don't drive dirty roads consistent enough to cause any problems. It could be why the inside of the discs is a bit more rusty compared to the outside though. I'm hoping that no disc gaurds isn't the reason why the discs look like they do?

Mine aren't on the front or the rear

That's true. But them not working still isn't right

If I don't the discs are going to fail MOT everytime

I'm ordering a new brake proportion valve tonight and having it fitted next week. Do you guys think I'm doing the right thing to solve this problem? There's only that valve or the vacuum pump left

Thanks guys and retroanaconda for the picture. It seems most people's rear discs work just as good as the fronts. Been as the brake fluid flow is about half that of the fronts there must be some restriction. So I think I'll get someone to replace the proportioning valve

That's something I haven't checked I must admit. Worth a look I suppose. I'm starting to doubt the bearmach rear calipers now to be honest. The front are OEM and are braking as good as a brand new one. Should there be less pressure at the rear when bleeding?

Cheers boydie. Any ideas where to get them machined? Also you don't think it could be faulty calipers do you? Poor fluid ways. Other than the fluid ways the pistons are like new. So a rebuild Deffo wouldn't make any difference. Replacement may do. People not think it could be the bias valve then? As I say there was less pressure when bleeding for the rear calipers than the front. About half the pressure in fact

Right guys. Whipped the wheels off earlier and took the pads out. Got an assistant to press the pedal while I inspected the pistons. Both pistons came out freely with no issues at all. No restrictions or sticking of any sort. What I did notice when looking at the pads is that the one side where the disc is poor, the pad doesn't look like it has been used (see link for photo) where as the good side of the disc that pad is shiny and used. http://s905.photobucket.com/user/souster4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150117_124733.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 On further inspection it appears the discs are covered in black spots similar to wager marks on a car. Except you can't feel them. so maybe they are crappy discs and pads. But other than that I'm absolutely clueless now. What do you guys think?

Thank you boydie and bowie for your replies. That's interesting what you say about the discs and I totally agree. I've got a day off today so I'm going to get the rear wheels off and inspect the calipers to see what the score is. The vehicle is a truck cab with no cover on the back, I'm not sure if that would be why the discs are rusting a bit easier on the inside. But the vehicle is only left for a maximum of a week or two at most, surely that's not enough for it to ruin the rear discs. If that was the case then cars round the country would constantly need new discs. The outside of the discs nearest the wheels are better. Not perfect but acceptable. Still showing early signs of pitting. I'll report back with my findings later and hopefully get to the bottom of it.

I've had all sorts of faults from bad earth's that you wouldn't believe. Nearly cost me fortunes trying to track down. Ps. I'm very jealous you drive cwms lane so regular. Fantastic lane

I've tried that mate with no luck. I'll have no tyres left haha. Is that your rear pads only lasting 15k too, if so then there's Deffo an issue with mine. As I think these would last a life time

Cheers boydie. Yeah they are fixed calipers so no sliders. I'm nearly 100% certain there is no muck in the fluid ways and have successfull experience with rebuilding the land rover brake calipers. My next job is to get the wheel off and inspect what's happening with the pistons. Failing that is going to have a new bias valve or vacuum pump I think? Just don't know which one? Can anyone help me decide? I'm going to book it in at a land rover specialist next week I think. Not totally convinced it's not crappy discs tho

Deffo not the driving style. I've tried everything from smooth and no braking. Gradual, or slamming them on at last minute. All leave the same results

Now that's interesting. My calipers are new 6 months ago, bearmach branded. Looks like I might have to live with it

That's exactly how my rear discs look on a good day. Interesting that you've replaced everything also with no luck. Has yours got a bias valve? It wouldn't be these braided rear hoses would it? Mine are new though. When I was bleeding the brakes, the flow to the rear was less than the fronts. They still aren't right though. I wouldn't mind if I hadn't spent a small fortune on them. The only thing left for me to replace is the bias valve and vacuum pump. So its one of the two haha

Cheers Steve. The pedal doesn't sink on start up when the vacuum is expelled, but does on the second pump when vacuum has built up. I think the vacuum pump is a bit worn. Would that have any impact on the rear brakes? That's interesting About the disc casting. I thought I was pitting as a result of them not being used? But maybe not. They were mintex from amazon. But how genuine they are I don't know. I need to get it on rollers if I can. Nobody think it's the bias valve then?

I've just had a look Pete. And there's 3 pipes coming off the master cylinder. Pretty sure there's no T piece for the rear other than the back axle. Do you guys think I should Book it in to my local land rover specialist to have the bias valve changed? Not sure if the pedal not sinking on start up is anything to do with it?

Thanks Pete. I haven't clamped the new flexi no. They are terrifirma braided, not sure if they are any good. I'll try and get a pic of the brake system later

Thanks boydie ane Les for your replies. Yep its a 1995 defender 90 so no ABS. I Loaded the vehicle up today with what I had in the garage to try and get some weight over the rear to see if it would make any difference. I got 6 land rover steel wheels and tyres in along with a heavy jack. Some decent weight and by far exceeds other 90 hard tops that are unladen with no rear brake issues. I then had to go and collect something so used the vehicle for 15 miles with these items in the load space. And there was no difference to how the rear discs looked at the end of the journey. They still don't look like they are wearing correctly. I'm happy to live with it if it's normal, however a friends vehicle of the same year isn't the same. And a TD5 90 isn't either. Would the amount of servo assistance play a role in this? It's a new servo, but the pedal still doesn't sink on start up. It does on the second press though. Just wondering if that had anything to do with it. I took a picture of the rear discs to see what you guys thought after carrying those items in the load bay. They were cheap mintex discs of Amazon. I'm not sure if that has any factors? http://s905.photobucket.com/user/souster4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150115_114353.jpg.html?filters[user]=109140969&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0